Need your advice on a good inside automotive tire patch

What's the difference between a Bimmer and a Beemer????

Anyone crazy enough to buy a second one deserves what he gets. Crazy enough or rich enough that the criminally high expenses don't mean anything to them

The BBS rims are no better balance wise than any quality OEM or aftermarket alloy rim. I have Ford OEM alloys for my snows and Eagle Alloy rims for my summer rims on the Ranger. The rims themselves all balance out perfectly on the dynamic balancer with stems installed..

No measurable radial or side to side runout.

Some do go bad just sitting. Hoses rot, and compressor pistons corrode from misuse.

Don't bet on them not going bad. Ozone damage to the hose can leave you with a popped hose.

You don't need to make them. They came as standard equipment with many GM vehicles with air ajustable suspension - to use the air ride compressor to blow up tires (or footballs, or swimming tubes, or whatever) I have 2 of them - must be if to 20 feet long each.

You would need to take almost 1/3 of the air out of each of 3 other tires to blow up one empty tire.

And a possible vandalism charge - or more.

A good 1.25 to 2" bore tire pump is just as fast as the 12 volt compressor - needs no electricity, and doesn't need to steel are from your other tires. Makes you sweat a bit = but many of us need the exercise anyway.

A standard tire pump (not a frame-mounted bike pump - one of those 24 inch-ish units with a footplate and a "T" handle- can pump a 225/70 15 tire faster than the average 12 volt compressor by a factor of about 2 if you are in good shape or have a "second" to spell you off.

Took about 50 strokes to take tire from 15 to 30 psi. - that's just a couple minute's work.

I used to have to blow up tires on farm wagons with one of those pumps as a young feller. Thankfully they were tube type tires - seating a bead on a tubeless tire with a hand pump would be a trick (use ether and throw a match if you get stuck having to do the deed)

I carry Dynaplug kits on my bikes with tubeless tires:

I've also used the standard string type with good results. The politically correct thing to do is to immediately repair the tire or preferably, if your selling bike tires, buy a new one. I patched a almost brand new rear tire, and ran it close to 8000 miles before the tread was gone. The string plug did leak slowly towards the end but when the tire was removed the inside loop was well sealed and wasn't going to blow out.

Not according to this:

This week?s tax map takes a look at state gasoline tax rates, using data from a recent report by the American Petroleum Institute. Pennsylvania has the highest rate of 51.60 cents per gallon (cpg), and is followed closely by New York (45.99 cpg), Hawaii (45.10 cpg), and California (42.35 cpg). On the other end of the spectrum, Alaska has the lowest rate at 12.25 cpg, but New Jersey (14.50 cpg) and South Carolina (16.75 cpg) aren?t far behind. These rates do not include the additional 18.40 cent federal excise tax.

Combined rate here

That's the nice thing about running DOT legal knobbies on a dual sport. Balance the tire? How could I ever tell whether it was balanced or not?

We have 2 Subarus in the family for years. Symmetrical AWD they are. There is Youtube explaning Subaru system, one of the best. Audi Quattro, BMW xDrive, Acura SH AWD... Subaru, Acura come out on top.

clare wrote, on Mon, 07 Dec 2015 21:05:14 -0500:

I wouldn't "think" of driving any car without all four tires "matching" in tread pattern and brand and model.

I still don't see why a Subaru is any different than any other vehicle, AWD or otherwise.

What the heck does AWD have to do with it anyway? All decent cars have stability control (and have had them for a decade or more).

Mine, for example, is a dozen years old and it has DSC, and, all cars, by law, I think nowadays, have stability control.

So, what's different about a Subaru (except the marketing team wants you to "think" they're "special").

rbowman wrote, on Mon, 07 Dec 2015 20:55:47 -0700:

Actually, you balance the wheel and the tire. But, you're right. You wouldn't be able to tell with those knobbies!

clare wrote, on Mon, 07 Dec 2015 21:11:02 -0500:

I fully and completely understand. But, at least in my ONE (single!) test of 5 tires on 5 rims, it didn't happen.

clare wrote, on Mon, 07 Dec 2015 21:50:48 -0500:

This is a very clever idea, and, it fits the idea, which is to "set" the car at the stipulated "normal ride height" (which we all agree is nothing close to "normal") *before* you start the alignment.

Strapping the car down until the distance between the wheel well center and the center of the wheel is the defined distance will work.

I have never seen anyone *do* that; but I can't disagree. It will work.

So will about 500 pounds (in addition to 18 gallons of fuel).

But, most alignment shops don't do either (from my experience calling around). And, most bimmer owners don't even know what I'm talking about.

You know. But most don't.

clare wrote, on Mon, 07 Dec 2015 21:52:49 -0500:

Big difference. Anyone saying the wrong word is an idiot poser.

A beemer is the bike. A bimmer is not the bike; it's the car.

The name has a *long* history. Anyone who says it wrong is an idiot because it means they don't know the absolute least about the thing that they ride or drive.

It's just like if a guy says he "drives" a beemer. Nobody "drives" a beemer.

You ride a beemer; you drive a bimmer. You just sound stupid if you don't know the basic difference.

There is a long history on all of this. Let me dig it up... click ... click ... google ... google ...

Here is a decent description:

BTW, it doesn't matter what *you* (or I) think; it matters that anyone who knows anything about bimmers or beemers know this, and anyone who knows absolutely nothing about bimmers or beemers doesn't know this.

Ed Pawlowski wrote, on Mon, 07 Dec 2015 22:54:59 -0500:

Not really true. You were snowed.

Like any statistic, you have to look at the full picture.

California ostensibly *lowered* the gas tax recently; but they *raised* the sales tax.

To count one and not the other isn't telling the true story.

For example, this is from 2014, but look at the numbers:

"California consumers currently pay 71 cents per gallon in taxes every time they fill up their tanks. That?s the highest gas tax rate in the country. The average American pays less?about 50 cents per gallon."

It's sort of like your phone bill. You have to look at *all* the taxes and so-called "fees", which, on purpose, they break into a billion little pieces, just so they can fool people like you and me.

:)

clare wrote, on Mon, 07 Dec 2015 21:56:43 -0500:

I wasn't saying that the BBS part was better but I easily see how you may have construed that.

I was assuming (just guessing, really) that an expensive allow rim would likely run truer than a cheap steel wheel.

BTW, I also tested rim runout, which is *easy* once you have a tire changing machine and a static balancer because you can spin the rim on the tools with a dial gauge mounted on the wall or even with a flat wall nearby and a feeler gauge.

clare wrote, on Mon, 07 Dec 2015 22:04:14 -0500:

Nice. I need to find a set of me! (My bimmer doesn't have air suspension.)

It's hard to find a picture based on your description. Is this what yours look like?

clare wrote, on Mon, 07 Dec 2015 22:11:22 -0500:

I've done it, for fun, with almost anything flammable (I think I used carb cleaner or MAF cleaner as I recall). It blows up fast. Really really really fast. And it's loud!

Luckily, once I got the HF tire-changing tool, seating the bead is no problem. Just a bit of Dawn or Palmalive and the 4 foot long red tire iron that comes with the tool is all you need.

My medium-profile thinwall tires are a breeze. A SUV is much harder.

All depends on the tire sidewall thickness (thinner is easier).

Ashton Crusher wrote, on Mon, 07 Dec 2015 18:58:06 -0700:

To be fair, the very first response gave the right answer: WWS TEXAS wrote, on Mon, 07 Dec 2015 08:57:48 -0800

The rest is conversation. :)

I'm was gonna take the wheel and tire assembly to Wheel Works today simply because they said it would be free (I asked multiple times because I couldn't believe it) and that it would be a mushroom patchplug style repair from the inside.

They even do the unmounting, remounting, and balancing for that "free" amount (I'm incredulous).

I was fully prepared to do it myself, but, free is too good to pass up (but, I will be wary about them damaging my wheel or not mounting the tire EXACTLY where I match mounted it previously).

So, I "may" unmount the tire myself, and then remount it and rebalance it myself. Dunno yet if I'm gonna go that far, 'cuz free (totally free) is really hard to beat.

I'll let you know tomorrow. I was gonna go today but when I had to put the key in the ignition to straighten the wheels to jack the rear up to remove the tire, I accidentally left the key in the ignition.

Normally a bimmer goes to sleep in 16 minutes, but, apparently it doesn't do that when the key is in the ignition. So it's trickle charging overnight.

Okay. I forgot about cords.