No Fuel Delivery

Hi Group,

My current project: 1993 Ford E-150 van with the 5.0 litre injected engine. ~175,000 miles.

There is no fuel delivered to the fuel rail. I have confirmed that the cutoff switch has not triggered and that fuses and relays are good. Well, on the relays, I swapped the fuel pump relay with the ( working ) horn relay.

I measured the voltage at the cutoff switch and read only 6.7 volts with what may be a spike to 12v as the system is powered up. My DVM is too slow to read that peak though. Would it be normal to have 1/2 battery voltage at the pump when not running?

I'm also having a helluva time getting the fuel lines disconnected from the fuel filter with the metal scissor-like tool.

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. I've read that sometimes the little plastic tool works better and found one last night. Any advice there is appreciated also. I'm hoping to avoid dropping that 36 gallon fuel tank unless it is absolutely necessary, but it's looking like it may be new fuel pump time for this one.

TIA for your sage advice.

Reply to
TomO
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My late partner had a similar problem with his van. Dealership changed out both fuel pumps, went through a heck of a lot of work, and nothing was fixed. (His had an extra fuel tank.. Dont know if it were aftermarket or if it came on his custom van.)

He spent several thousand dollars on replacing various parts and renting cars.

When they finally found the problem it was plugged fuel lines.

Unfortunately, I dont know enough about what actually happened in his case, and it is too late to ask him.

Reply to
hls

With the age and the miles, suspect everything.

If it were mine I would preemptively replace the fuel pumps, filter and while I was at it, look the wiring to the pumps over *Real* closely.

Any "cheezy", green corroded connectors need replacement or a solder job.

Once you get the knack for releasing those Ford quick connects they go pretty easy. Go to the "U-Pick-It" junkyard in your area and practice on/break a few of those. I bet you get the hang of it in three tries.

As a point of reference, I live in the salt belt and in my experience, modern cars (anything from about 1988 and on) develop wiring problems from the road salt. Bad grounds from body corrosion and "cheezy connectors from moisture intrusion abound and are easy fixes once you find them. The trick is finding them.

A Digital Volt/Ohm Meter, even a Harbor Freight cheapie will do better than a cheap or old "swingin' needle meter" (and I have and use an ancient Simpson 260 "swinging neelle" but not for this kind of work).

Even a cheap and largely inaccurate, consumer grade service manual like the Chilton/Haynes manuals can be a big help. An account with AllData is a godsend sometimes.

Sorry to say that in the end, that tank has gotta come down anyway so you can measure the voltage drop at the pump more than likely. Put a pump in it just cuz you have it down. Cheap insurance if you are doing your own work.

Al

Reply to
Anumber1

Personally I would try to determine WHY the voltage is low--could be a bad connection or the fuel pump is stuck or the lines are clogged. Maybe rats were chewing on some wires somewhere and some corrosion is grounding it. Do you hear the fuel pump going at all when you first turn the key?

I've replaced several fuel filters on Fords but I have a '99 Ranger and I cannot get it to release. I have tried two sets of the little plastic things and the scissors tool. At this point I'm considering replacing the fuel line going to the tank. I have spent a total of about three hours on the #%&@ thing!

Reply to
Ulysses

No. The voltage at the pump ought to be close to 12 volts or more. have you tried just direct wiring the fuel pump to verify that the fuel pump runs (or not), when the fuel pump IS getting power? that would be one of my first steps in this situation. It would only run for a few seconds till pressure builds up. But if the fuel pump power IS the problem and you direct wire it the truck should run.

Did you relive the pressure in the fuel lines first. I've had terrible luck with those tools on fuel lines. I finally gave up on my explorer and had the dealer do it. Cost me $60 to have a $6 fuel filter installed.

Reply to
Ashton Crusher

Jumper the fuel pump relay. Check the inertial switch for power on both sides. Whack the fuel tank with a big rubber hammer. You might get access to the top of the tank to check for power at the fuel pump if you drop the driveshaft.

Reply to
Steve Austin

Current status and update.

I had already jumpered 12v into the pump to find that it still did not run. After a bunch of messing about, I did get the plastic tool to release the filter but it was not nearly as easy as advertised.

The final test, I had SWMBO power up the system several times while I was listening at the tank. no pump action could be heard. I then dropped the tank, but had to leave it suspended at the forward end due to more of those damned Ford fuel line connections that didn't want to 'easily release with the tool'.

I removed the pickup/pump/sender assy and dropped the tank fully. Wouldn't ya know it; the pump ran fine after all the abuse. I'm not going to re-install that old pump again, so $110.00 later, I have a new pump ready to go. I have yet to get it installed, that will happen later this week.

Reply to
TomO

That reminds me of the starter motor on my '91 Explorer. It worked fine when I took it out. Put it back it didn't work. Took it out it worked. Put it back....

Turns out the brushes were worn and it would work when turned slightly but not in the installed position.

Reply to
Ulysses

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