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Oil change -- 1991 Geo Prizm

I'm planning on doing an oil change for my housemate on Monday. Her car is a 1991 Geo Prizm, auto, presumably with the smaller of the two engines (she doesn't know and it's not here right now to check the VIN). I'll be off to my FLAPS tonight to pick up oil and a filter; is there anything else I need (crush washer?) or should be aware of? I'm comfortable doing most regular maintenance-type- stuff on my GTI, but I don't have any experience with a Prizm or a Corolla.

Also, I'm planning on Mobil 1 in 5W-30 if I can find it, per the owner's manual (which calls for 5W-30 if the temperature is expected to be below 0 deg F, which it will be--we're in Vermont). However, I'm a bit concerned that the outside air temperature will also be above 50 deg. F before the next oil change (heck, it is right now); the owner's manual only calls for 5W-30 up to 50 deg F but also only calls for 10W-30 down to 0 deg. F. I'm thinking that (a) the theoretical viscosity of 5W-30 and 10W-30 is identical at 100 deg C, (b) since the car will probably see starting temps below -20 deg F at least five-ten times this winter, 10W-30 is going to be exceptionally problematic, and (c) a synthetic 5W-30 should work better than a dino 5W-30 when the air temp is above

50 deg. F. Any other feedback?

Thanks Kevin Broderick cc by email to kbroderick (at) smcvt (dot) edu appreciated, as I don't trust my NNTP server much further than I can throw it.

Reply to
Kevin T. Broderick
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If it's the base model, it most likely has ye ole 4A-FE engine with the

3-speed slush box. The oil filter is right under the exhaust manifold. It's a relatively easy job to do. I only got a new pan plug because our local 15 second oil change place stripped it out. Umm..that should be it, it's a pretty low IQ job.

I would just follow the manual's instructions. If the engine has migh mileage, I think (I've read) that switching to synthetic may cause more problems than solutions. Oh, make sure you get a filter with an anti-drain back valve. That should be it!

-Tim

Reply to
Tim H.

You might find some useful info at

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Reply to
Loose Cannon

"Kevin T. Broderick" wrote

Just use 5/30 oil, either synthetic or regular. 5/30 is more then capable of providing all the protection your engine will need at any of the temps you are likely to run into.

Ian

Reply to
shiden_kai

Reply to
Mike Walsh

[CHOMP]

Thanks for the recommendations to all. I ended up using Castrol Syntec 5W-30 and having to buy a heavy-duty plier-type filter wrench (with lots of dangerous, helpful sharp points) to get the old filter off; other than the overtigtened filter (damned thing wouldn't turn even with a screwdriver through it), things were rather peachy.

Things I should've asked about, that I'll mention now in case someone else needs the info and looks through Google for it:

  1. Jack points and jackstand locations. I ended up using the rear control arm mountpoint on one side and a jackpoint- looking thing on the other for jackstands; the owner's manual had the jacking points (just aft of the front wheels on the outer seam, and I had the factory jack to use), but not where to put jackstands. I didn't see any evidence of my jackstand placement causing problems, but I don't know if there's a better way to do it.
  2. Filter location is between the exhaust manifold and the engine accessories; it's virtually impossible to see from any normal angle, but it's not too hard to reach once you know where it is. Easier to get at from below; if you reach in from above, you've got an exhaust manifold and a couple of coolant hoses seeking to make your day even better.
  3. If you know where (or pretty much know where) stuff is, you can probably get away without lifting the car at all.
  4. Drain plug is a 14mm (as one would expect from a Toyota) and the filter is in the neighborhood of 2 7/8" (50-something mm, can't recall off the top of my head... use a new one at the parts store for comparison if necessary).

Thanks again, Kevin

Reply to
Kevin T. Broderick

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