Parking Brake Question.

The order is:

2) Engage parking brake

4) Further engage the parking brake if the vehicle starts to roll

The last thing you want is the entire vehicle weight resting on the parking pawl of your transmission. Irrespective of any damage that may result, you may have severe difficulties getting the tranny out of park.

A friend of mine habitually did 1, 5, 3, and 2 (in that order); until, I explained why he had such trouble getting out of park, on his sloped driveway.

Put the parking brake on before engaging the park pawl. Put the transmission in neutral, with your foot on the service brake. Engage the parking brake, then release the service brake, letting the weight of the car be taken up against the parking brake. Then put the transmission in park, so there is no torque acting against the park pawl.

thanks!

now, in winter, i've read its better to drive slowly for the first couple minutes in your car, rather than wait in park for the engine to heat up.

which is better?

Next time, you should post a new thread instead of changing the subject to a previous topic.

It's better environmentally to let your car go through it's own warm up cycle which is usually less than 20 seconds or so. I would imagine some newer cars don't even have a warm up cycle. My Firebird will idle a little high and then about 15 seconds later, it will drop 300-500 rpm's and I take that as an indication that I can go. Anyhow, the engine will warm up quicker if you drive it rather than letting it idle. Idling only wastes gas.

-Bruce

The idea of this is that you will also heat up your transmission, shocks, and other suspension components gently.

As opposed to racing out with a hot engine but cold shocks and springs and bust them at the first big bump. Or just cause unnecessary wear and tear.

Hi, Looks like this is a fella who is a newbie driver and does not read owner's manual. Tony