Plastic radiator tank cracking - is this common?

OK - I've mentioned my situation in another thread on Prestone LowTox coolant. Some people want to attribute my radiator leak to the use of DexCool in my cooling system.

The car is a 1995 Acura Integra GS-R with 131K miles on it. The radiator developed a crack in the factory Showa Aluminum radiator right at the top of the tank. When I squeezed the upper radiator hose, small amounts of coolant would spurt out of the front top of the tank. I just got it replaced, and the mechanic commented that the life I got out of the radiator was above average.

I changed the coolant at 30K miles and every 15K miles (incl the timing belt/water pump package) after that with the green Honda (not Type 2) coolant, until the upper rad hose burst at 114K miles. I needed to fix it quickly, and had lots of Havoline DexCool in the garage.

Is there any way the tank cracking can be from the use of an "incorrect" coolant? I'm highly skeptical, but there seem to be some posters on the Honda NG insisting that using anything other than Honda coolant means the potential for water pump failures or hoses/radiators leaking.

Reply to
y_p_w
Loading thread data ...

I do know that the Honda coolant used on their motorcycles has no silicon in it wheras some of the auto brands do. The shaft on the Honda water pumps (motorcycle) is very soft and the silicon additive abrades the shaft causing leaks. Ask any Gold Wing owner about the pump problems using silicon additive antifreeze.

As to my current car (Saturn), I have never changed the fluid in the system since the car was new 112,000 miles ago (about 9 years now). Never added any water nor changed a hose nor a pump. If it's green in the tank I go. Go figger.

Now the previous V-6 Ford needed fluid changes all the time. Pump failures (3), radiator (1), bypass hoses (5), radiator upper/lower hoses (4), tank (2), theromstat (3), freeze plug (1, which required pulling transmission to access rear of eng. block), assorted timing case (also coolant passageway) gaskets (2), and gallons and gallons of anti-freeze. It was a nightmare regarding cooling problems.

I remember my autoshop teacher telling me if I drain the water, I could expect problems if the warm engine dried out stuff and corrosion began. Seems water pump seal leakage always followed my changing the fluid. Ymmv.

Mack

Reply to
M. MacDonald

If the crack is on top, then here's what I see. The air pocket is at the top of the radiator. When coolants comes in contact with it internally so many times, for example from hitting the brakes, it causes hairline cracks from quick uneven expansion to contraction. Drying wood improperly does this too.

Does your car have an air bleed screw? If not, there's the problem. If it does, then DexCool is the problem. On my BMW, I use SAAB coolant which is half the cost, with the same chemical. I buy the real thing.

I bleed and fill my system like a ritual. I get the best coolant since I know it's important to baby the motor. My Honda at 277k mi. - and nothing's broken! Except in one case; I ran short of cash and use Prestone, it states that it's okay for Honda water pump (lie) but the water pump and thermostat just crap out. Yes, those are the only real parts I replaced in the engine bay in 14 years (it should've been replaced long ago, but it`s just to say that Prestone is so incompetent that it can damage frail car parts. I go back to Honda coolant anytime.

T Waltson

Reply to
Tibur Waltson

Currently - all that's available is Honda Type 2, which is an extended life coolant. This should be the same stuff sold at Honda motorcycle dealers.

OK.

Thanks.

Reply to
y_p_w

There's an air bleed screw right on the thermostat housing. I bled the air out a few times after the last change before my the tank cracked. I'm still trying to figure out exactly what DexCool would do to crack a radiator tank. Most of what I hear is the potential for sludge. After doing some research, it seems that plastic radiator tanks cracking isn't uncommon. Something about the pressure cap mount as part of the same plastic tank and being the first part of the radiator to receive hot coolant. When my upper rad hose burst, the guy at the parts counter said the upper one is more likely to go because of hot coolant from the engine.

Well - what I was doing was getting rid of the Prestone in my cooling system (long story). I used two flushes with water, and then filled with Havoline DexCool (enough undiluted coolant to reach 50/50, followed by 50/50 mixed coolant). The only Honda coolant available now is Type 2, which costs as much, but is only available prediluted.

Reply to
y_p_w

|>>Is there any way the tank cracking can be from the use of an |>>"incorrect" coolant? I'm highly skeptical, but there seem to |>>be some posters on the Honda NG insisting that using anything |>>other than Honda coolant means the potential for water pump |>>failures or hoses/radiators leaking.

No way coolant choice can cause cracking. My CRX has a crack at the top center, but it's right beside a mounting tab. As things settle over the years, and you hit a few bumps, the stress eventually cracks the tank. My solution was JB weld and a paper clip for reinforcement. Works fine. Rex in Fort Worth

Reply to
Rex B

Reply to
nospam4me

Many of these manufacturer specific coolants are just variations on the same extended-life organic acid technology used in Dex-Cool. I read that coolants started containing less silicate as they upped the amount of OA corrosion inhibitors.

Heck - what have I used in the last three years?

Havoline Extended-Life (Dex-Cool approved). Honda green (AKA Type 1). Toyota Long Life Red. (I plan on getting some Subaru coolant for my new WRX.)

Prestone claims they've checked their Extended-Life (Dex-Cool approved) coolant for compatibility with several manufacturers' extended life coolants, including Honda.

Reply to
y_p_w

MotorsForum website is not affiliated with any of the manufacturers or service providers discussed here. All logos and trade names are the property of their respective owners.