Power steering pump leaks

I did it, once.

Hardest part was getting the pulley off. But in my case, apparently the shaft was worn even though it did not appear to be.

Starting leaking again, and I ended up buying a new unit.

Was good experience, but time wasted in my case. You might be luckier

My car is a Mazda 323 Familia 1997.

The power steering pump is easy to rebuild to fix leaks. You don't need special tools and special knowledge.

Buy a repair kit which consists of O-ring rubber seal replacements. Tie with a piece of colored thread all the old seals to be replaced, to know which are the old ones which the new ones. If you get them mixed up, then you will have a hell of a time figuring out which are the old ones which the new.

Also take careful notes and diagrams as you work to record which parts are assembled where and how; then you will know where to return them properly.

There is no need whatever to use a puller to remove the pulley wheel or any stuck gears in the pump shaft. But take care not to leave any nicks on any smooth shiny surface, specially the shaft being held by the main shaft seal.

If you need more help, write me at my email address:

snipped-for-privacy@yahoo.com.sg

Good luck or God help you and bless you.

Susma Rio Sep

This query is addressed to DIY weekend auto mechanics.

Is this a case of "Fools dare where angels fear to tread" -- something like that? Anyway, here it goes:

About repairing the power steering pump, I have been hearing nothing but the almost impossibility of repairing or rebuilding it by oneself on a DIY basis, owing to the need for special tools and special knowledge.

My Mazda 323 Familia 97 with mileage of 54,234 miles has developed a leak in the power steering pump. I bought a repair kit which includes all the rubber seals needed to stop leaks. I have removed the pump from the engine block. And I am now still debating whether to open it up or not; or to bring it to the guys with special tools and special knowledge.

Guys here who have repaired or rebuilt a leaking power steering pump, and who are not possessed of special tools and special knowledge, can you tell me whether it is possible for the averagely intelligent and resourceful DIY weekend mechanic to do the job himself?

I have done many things with my cars which I am sure 95% of car owners have not done and will not ever do. Like dismantling and disassembling totally the transmission housing and all the innards inside, to overhaul the transmission system, all by my lone self, with only the special tools of two alligator lifts of the two tons household variety; and I have also changed several times the pressure plate, the clutch disk, the release bearing and the pilot bearing of the clutch system.

Modesty aside, I think it should not be impossible or terribly difficult. Why then am I writing this message? To hear from guys who have done it successfully, in order to get some tips from them. OK?

Susma Rio Sep

My car is a Mazda 323 Familia 1997.

The power steering pump is easy to rebuild to fix leaks. You don't need special tools and special knowledge.

Buy a repair kit which consists of O-ring rubber seal replacements. Tie with a piece of colored thread all the old seals to be replaced, to know which are the old ones which the new ones. If you get them mixed up, then you will have a hell of a time figuring out which are the old ones which the new.

Also take careful notes and diagrams as you work to record which parts are assembled where and how; then you will know where to return them properly.

There is no need whatever to use a puller to remove the pulley wheel or any stuck gears in the pump shaft. But take care not to leave any nicks on any smooth shiny surface, specially the shaft being held by the main shaft seal.

If you need more help, write me at my email address:

snipped-for-privacy@yahoo.com.sg

Good luck or God help you and bless you.

Susma Rio Sep

PS I found the trouble in my work, a mistake I made in putting back together the pump: placing the spring of the relief valve at the back instead of at the front of the valve assembly. Placing the spring at the front of the valve assembly keeps the relief valve open permanently; the correct location is at the back, so that when pressure is excessive, it pushes the valve piston backward against the force of the spring, opening up the relief aperture.