Power Steering Stop Leak to cure noisy pump?

About thirty something years ago I read an article in an auto magazine which said those stop leak products have shellac in them.The shellac will supposedly work for a while by expanding the seals, but when the shellac dries out/wears off, you will have a larger leak than before using stop leaks.That was the gist of the article I read anyway. cuhulin

You probably meant something else not "10K miles", but anyway usually noise is caused by air in the fluid. The fluid is supposed to have anti foaming agents. Have you tried changing the fluid? If you are going to go out and buy something besides another pump get a good grade of fluid and change it a couple times if needed.

-jim

On Sat, 21 Mar 2009 15:02:01 -0500, phaeton wrote:

The one thing I have found that does the job in a good but noisy pump is 2 oz. Lubegard Red. It is intended for auto transmission but, I found that it usually quited them considerably and it works well in PS pumps. If your pump is somehow hetting air into the system, there is not much that will quiet it. Keep in mind the fluid level can be critical. The level needs to be maintained near the max full. The level will drop when the wheels are turned. If the fluid is slightly low when idling, it may go low enough to ingest air when loaded. Air in the fluid will cause the volume to increase. I have seen them ingest enough air to overflow the reservoir. If this happens, the pump will usually need replacement as this is an indication of internal fluid bypassing of the seals. As far as fluid, I suggest you use a regular PS fluid - your choice. I have also used Dexron trans fluid with no problems. Everyone has an opinion on this. BTW, if you go searching the fluid install procedure in the Ford manual, you will find a procedure requiring a special vacuum adapter on the reservoir involved with a specific fill procedure to ensure no air is in the system. If there is a bad seal in the pump or gearbox (or rack), this will draw air into the system which is exactly what you are trying to avoid. I have never seen them tell anyone how to prevent this problem later on with an inservice vehicle.

Lugnut

I've yet to find a ford PS pump that wasn't audible above the rest of the engine. It's a distinctive sound that one can identify immediately.

I've switched the pumps on fords when asked to do so because of the noise, and the reman'd pumps are just as noisy at the originals. I think it's just the way they are, they make noise. Unless it is leaking, howling/squealing like it has a bad bearing, or just not delivering any pressure and you -know- the pump is what is at fault, its probably best to leave well enough alone and replace it when it does start to leak.

I guess my advice would be if it ain't broke, don't fix it.

Chris

The best chance of having a quiet, or at least quieter than the chain rebuilders, is to buy your rebuilt from Ford. I've seen the TSB from Ford on how they rebuild it and why the chain stores make noise. There is a difference, but most people won't spend the money to get theirs from Ford. Like previously posted, using Lube Guard Red and some synthetic Dexron, if that's what the spec calls for, will help keep it quiet. I also knew a guy who rigged up a variable speed sewing machine motor with a belt, used the foot pedal that came with it, and had a contraption that he initially used to spin the power steering pump slowly and added fluid while the pulley was turning so that the system never sucked in air on when you initially started the motor. It actually worked, at least on the few that I saw him fix.

Right now the fluid level is centered between the "minmax HOT" on the dipstick (when hot). Should I try topping it off so that it is right on the "max" line? Would it be able to self-bleed any air that is in the system?

Otherwise I bet flushing/refilling is difficult to do without getting more air in the system. (That's pretty ingenious, with the sewing machine motor).

Btw yes, I did mean "10K miles" above. It was barely audible when brand new, and around 10K miles it started getting louder. By 40K or 50K it got to the noise level it is now, which is pretty obnoxious.

Thanks.

-ph

Inside the neck , there is a vertical reinforcement rib. I usually fill them to the top of that when hot. There is still plenty of expansion room. Keep in mind that what you are hearing may not be and is not likely air in the system. Many times, it is a chattering of the pressure control valving. That is why I would recommend a fresh fill of PS fluid or Dexron trans fluid with 1 oz. Lubegard Red per qt of capacity. It is not a seal swell or anything like that. If the system leaks now, do not expect it to get better. It is only a friction modifier or enhancement to reduce friction which smooths out operation of the valving and helps deaereate the fluid. It does not work instantly. It will take a few miles to become effective. There are other brands of similar stuff out there but I like the original Lubegard Red. It is some of the slickest lube I know of and handle the heat well. IIRC, NAPA stores usually have it in stock for about $9/pint.

Lugnut

There are a lot of Stop Leak power steering fluids out there for a whole lot less than $12. I've used Lucas brand with pretty good success in my old Explorer. Someone mentioned that it may only work for a while (to stop leaks) but then that's all I'm hoping for. Gotta get a new pump someday anyway. As far as the noise, like others said if it has air in there that'll do it. Make sure it's full acccording to the dip stick and turn the wheel several times back and forth (I prefer doing this on dirt) and maybe it'll help bleed the air out. I have an old Mighty Max that was sitting for years and the power steering made a helluva racket. I just kept adding fluid until it finally quieted down.