Re: Wiper Arms

two yards closest to me have signs stating "For insurance purposes customers NOT ALLOWED in scrap area".

go back there.

Flooded cars (Hurricane/Tropical storm Sandy) likely will be sold. Watch out.

Reply to
JR
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Brent: "Enterance into the self serve lot is just for what they put there. There is no access to the scrap, wheel, full serve, or other operational areas except to exit self serve and go to the counter of the desired other "

Sorry, by scrap I meant to say wreck yard - where the cars actually are. M ay be any year from last year back to late '80s. Vehs may be 90 to 50% int act. I think they're restricting access back there incase a poorly stacked Lumina doesn't fall on someone(!) I did not mean the metal yard.

Reply to
thekmanrocks

Undoubtedly. Even in a yard, I would be wary of buying electronics that show signs of corrosion or having taken a bath. We were just discussing this on a vehicle-specific forum... even e.g. headlights now have "control modules" which likely will be toast after a bath, as would likely the self-levelers. Caveat emptor, et cetera. Unfortunately electronics are everywhere; e.g. you might think that you could use a seat from a flood car assuming you could clean and soften the leather, but there's likely electronics in there too for the memory functions etc. so all you could really do would be to transfer the leather and foam from the good but flooded seat to your old ripped one. Sadly the more luxurious a car, the more likely any given part is to be ruined beyond repair/restoration by a dunking.

nate

Reply to
Nate Nagel

More pretentious "wisdom" from supercilious bullshit artists. Electrical devices that have gotten wet are not necessarily a problem unless there's corrosion on contacts, which might be cleaned, or moisture has infiltrated into circuitry, which still MAY not be an issue is they're dried and cleaned (if contaminated) and have never been wet while energized.

Reply to
No one

Nate says: 'some expensive parts may be fried' Nym shifting troll says: 'Nate's an idiot, some expensive parts may not be fried'.

It's the same thing. Glass half empty. Glass half full.

The beauty of usenet.

Reply to
Brent

Not comprehending the concept or implications of a probabilistic statement, the ultimate poseur erroneously conflates the two terms and responds that the inclusion of the term "likely" ("which likely will be toast after a bath") carries a congruent definition with the words "may be". In actuality it's as likely as not that an individual part will not be toast, rather it could well be completely unaffected by an immersion if clean and dry before being re-energized.

Reply to
Gene E. Yuss

Electronics, not electricals, oh nym-shifting troll.

Or you've never seen a circuit board with the creeping crud on it?

nate

Reply to
Nate Nagel

The former is a subset of the latter, oh brain dead poseur.

Does that constitute a technical term in your limited lexicon? Not to mention that such a non-sequitur response, again exposing your abject reading comprehension issues, doesn't begin to rebut or even address the above point.

Reply to
Gene E. Yuss

The only one I see here with a malfunction is the one who chooses to nym-shift and troll.

Now if you get the car out of the water quickly and disassemble it carefully and extensively (even things that weren't intended to be disassembled) and drying things out carefully cleaning off the crud and then reassembling a dry car, sure, everything will likely be just fine.

Now leave the car in the flood waters for a couple of days to a week and then park itin the sun and hope for the best... well long term it's probably not going to go so well.

Water can get into all sorts of places and not come out until it corrodes a hole to get out. Components that are not supposed to be under water usually don't have drains to let the water either. Then there is the dirt, grime, and so forth flood water carries with it.

Reply to
Brent

It comes as no surprise whatsoever that your reply yet again arrogantly, cravenly and completely ignored the preceding paragraph slam dunking your previous attempt at an effective rebuttal. You instead attempted to obfuscate and misdirect by name calling with a whiny identification complaint (that it so annoys your pedestrian ilk is more than sufficient reason alone to employ the device), despite your realization that you clearly know to whom it is you're responding.

Many electrical items will be found to simply be moisture impenetrable in the first place and of no concern in that regard.

Hardly the manner by which anyone competent would attempt to salvage replacement parts.

Which again brings us back to the distinction of possibly, however correctly, neither probably, nor likely, but solely dependent upon the item and the deployed approach.

Epoxy encased modules, or otherwise sealed devices, such as ignition control, voltage regulator, relay, sensors, pickups, coil packs ... to name but a few, will remain wholly impervious to moisture and debris nearly irrespective of the exposure period.

Reply to
Gene E. Yuss

So you're trying to deny being a nym-shifting troll through two obvious nym-shifts.

Parts are designed to various levels of preventing moisture entering them. Most in a typical passenger car are not designed for being submerged.

This isn't about competence, it's about real life.

When don't have an argument, snip. The general process for used parts is to put the car out in the yard and then when it comes up in the queue, strip it. That's the process. That's after days or weeks sitting in the insurance yard while the claim is paid and until the next auction. Which was after days or weeks after it was towed into the insurance yard.

That's nice. However there are many different potting methods and materials. Such blanket statments as " wholly impervious to moisture and debris nearly irrespective of the exposure period" are absurd for anyone with any clue about such things.

BTW: regardless of the internal voltage regulator's survival I don't think you want a generator/alternator that has been submerged for a couple of days, even if it is still electrically perfect.

Reply to
Brent

Correction - - above.

Reply to
Brent

Not to mention that when a circuit is half-submerged in dirty water (e.g. water with lots of stuff in solution) suddenly there's a conductive path between places where there isn't intended to be one (e.g. between a 12VDC power circuit and a 5V or less electronic control circuit,) causing even more damage when you power up the equipment. Sometimes the damaged component might be a motor, light, or actuator... sometimes it might be something more subtle like a resistor, capacitor, etc. thus necessitating replacement of the whole electronic assembly or alternately component-level repair (e.g. really expensive if you don't DIY.)

Of course those of us who actually work on this stuff know this...

nate

Reply to
Nate Nagel

Most automotive relays don't appear to be sealed, either - at least not the ones that I've seen. The cover is just snap fit onto the base (e.g. Bosch, Tyco, etc.) Nor are any of the interior items e.g. window switches, seat switches, or any control boards not under the hood. And even then, any crimped connector is going to be oxidized after a bath making the wiring harness essentially useless, unless ALL connectors are "weatherpack" type and none of them have failed.

nate

Reply to
Nate Nagel

I think material choices, platings, seals, and all the complexities of connector design are a bit beyond the nym-shifter's knowledge.

Reply to
Brent

The weatherpacks are not all that great unless they are in good shape and were actually installed properly.

If they were there wouldn't be so many intermittent problems in connections. Like you said there are many components that are not sealed.

Reply to
Steve W.

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