Removing Resonator from Exhaust 96 Sentra

As long as you leave the catalytic converter on and the oxygen sensors I don't see a problem other than the vehicle will be louder. Be careful with the gals though, what we think is cool (like more noise) they don't always appreciate. If you have to have the vehicle inspected for emissions the inspector might also have a problem with any changes that aren't certified as equal to original factory even if it doesn't change the emissions. The engineers designed the system as a whole and in this case it might be best to go back with manufactures equivalent. I'm guessing all the exhaust from the catalytic back will need to be replaced and I doubt there will be much difference in price with or without the resonator, are you sure it isn't the muffler?

abcd wrote in news:aaec20d0-d67d-4f58-b7a8- snipped-for-privacy@d34g2000vbm.googlegroups.com:

The purpose of a resonator is to change the /sound/, not the /loudness/. Loudness control is the function of the muffler.

Resonator deletion (or replacement of OEM with aftermarket) may end up making the exhaust sound unacceptably hollow, tinny, boomy, high-pitched, any combination of those, or even other audial phenomena I haven't thought of.

Resonator deletion is perfectly legal and acceptable in most jurisdictions, but you may not like the effects of it.

It's likely the muffler shop wouldn't tell you anything simply because they hadn't seen the car yet. Customers have a bad habit of making poor diagnoses of problems with their rides.

Thanks for the responses. Yes, it is the resonator, not the muffler, assuming the resonator is at the back of the system, and the muffler is farther upstream.

I'm surprised they would charge about the same for just a pipe (or two) instead of the big resonator box and a pipe.

I want to remove the catalytic converter on my 1983 Dodge van and leave it off.My largest tubing bender is good for up to 1 1/2'' diameter tubing.I have a few 4'' square posts sitting around.I was wondering if I can use my electric right angle grinder and do some carving on one or two of those posts and make my own tubing bender for a tube adapter? cuhulin

TheHorror wrote in news:e5cd281b-1e63-4fd0-8609- snipped-for-privacy@q14g2000vbi.googlegroups.com:

The resonator is normally in the middle of the system, between the cat and the muffler. The resonator is usually much smaller than the muffler.

If you're talking about the box all the way at the very rear, right next to the tailpipe, that's the muffler.

By the way, the muffler on this car is in great shape. ( 96 Nissan Sentra) No rust. Even in northeast winter salty driving. The muffler on my brand new 09 Nissan Versa already has surface rust forming.

You are right. I was looking at it this morning. Muffler in back, resonator in middle. The connection between the muffler pipe and the resonator pipe has completely separated. Now I'm wondering if I can talk a muffler shop into fixing it the cheap way, such as cutting off the 2 connecting flanges and putting a connector pipe-sleeve over the two pipes to join them. And maybe a weld or two. Maybe if the price is right they would do it. Assuming it is legal.

TheHorror wrote in news: snipped-for-privacy@p36g2000vbn.googlegroups.com:

You can try that, I suppose.

But once exhaust system parts start to fall apart due to rust, there's usually a /lot/ more rust there than meets the eye...

Update, I had Midas cut out the 2 connecting flanges where the problem was, and weld in a new 8 inch section of pipe. It was pretty expensive. $80. Talked him down from $100.

I only fix those part way if money's really tight and due to ease up significantly -- if money's tight and it's gonna stay that way you may as well just pony up _now_ instead of throwing money down the drain and having less when the whole thing falls apart a bit later.

$80 from $100? Sometimes, I think about buying myself a MIG/Wire fed welding rig.Are they easy to use? cuhulin

pretty much, yes. if you can stick weld, you can weld with a MIG.

nate

I can probally find a good one in some of the pawn shops around here for $80 or $100.I have seen them before in pawn shops.I think I will start reading up on them and looking around.Most of my tools, I bought them at pawn shops.They are Good tools too. cuhulin

if you go that route, get a brand you recognize, Lincoln, Miller etc. that way when it needs a small part (and if it's in a pawn shop it probably will, at least tips, maybe liner) you'll be able to get it.

nate