Replacemnt tranny pan w/ drain plug...

Can you buy one for later model cars? I've been checking on the web and it seems that most of what's available is for

70's and 80's Ford and Chevy V8 models. I though that JC Whitney had them for late model cars but it doesn't seem to be so. I'm looking for one for an 2000 Pontiac V6.

Thanks for any help.

MB

Reply to
mab992
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Put one in your existing pan. You can buy kits or weld a nut to the inside after drilling the pan, put in a bolt with a gasket, have a nice day.

Reply to
pater

Really Pater has the better idea; and much cheaper than buying a pan! I've done several over the years. Plus, I kept one long enough that I actually used it once. Subsequent buyers hopefully enjoyed them, though. Probably the main advantage is it offers a way to drain fluid w/out making a mess; pan still needs to be removed to access the filter. s

Reply to
sdlomi2

Yea, but god, it's still great to be able to just pop a plug out (like in an engine, ) let all the crap drain, and then drop the pan..... as every time I dropped the pan to drain the C4 in my Comet, I usually wound up taking a tranny fluid bath, and then laying in that crap while I changed the filter, and installed the pan (cleaned and re-gasketed, )

Pater definitely knows of which he speaks.

-LMB

Reply to
Louis M. Brown

If you guys do a lot of these, you can also punch a hole in the pan with an awl or sharp center punch to achieve a slop free drain. Put your drain plug there after you remove the pan or mash the hole shut with a flat punch & weld it shut. Ain't had a trans fluid bath in many years. Good luck.

Reply to
pater

How do they stay in there? The kits look like there is a little sticky to hold the bolt in, but what kind of stability would that have?

Thanks MB

Reply to
mab992

Imagine a bolt going thru a hole with nuts and washers on each side--and tighten those nuts with that *sticky* stuff under them as gaskets. HTH picture it better. s

Reply to
sdlomi2

A friend that worked a dealership would do this then put on a new from the parts dept. He did not list the pan on his parts charge. A sheet metal screw can also be used to plug the hole made by the awl.

Reply to
Chas Hurst

Either ha ain't too smart or he don't know how to weld.

Reply to
pater

I guess I'd be better off punching through the aluminum pan and then after the drain/clean using that hole as the drill start point for the 1/2" 'er the kit requires and then sealing 'er back up.

Reply to
mab992

The old thread is no longer available to me. If you can get that pan off, replace the filter, clean out the crap, then it would be far easier and safer to drill for the kit.

Banging a hole in it while it is still installed, if that is what you intend, is asking for trouble.

Reply to
<HLS

Why not drilling a small 1/8" hole and draining? This seems to be far more feasable in a driveway than bathing in tranny fluid.

MB

Reply to
mab992

It is feasible, BUT no matter whether you drill a hole, or punch one in the pan, someone out there is going to try it, screw it up, and put a $1000 hole in his transmission innards.

If you know what you are doing, and go carefully, you can drain the tranny pan without making a mess. Use a large parts pan, and loosen the bolts slowly, allowing the pan to tilt and drain out one corner into the pan. Put newspaper under and around the pan to soak up any mistakes.

When you have tilted the pan and drained as much as possible, then go ahead and take it off. Clean the crap out of the pan, observing the sediments and magnet for signs of damage. Install your pan drain at a point where it will not interfere with internal parts, and where you are likely to get best drainage.

Then put in your new filter, button it up, and refill according to instructions. You can then drain fluid and refresh as often as you want without making a mess. Changing the filter at service intervals will be easier as well.

I don't agree with those who suggest you never change the fluid, but I have no hard data to prove I am right.

Reply to
<HLS

" don't agree with those who suggest you never change the fluid, but I have no data to prove I am right"

Many suggest that you never change the fluid in a man-tran. This is incorrect as most do not have a filter and although the fluid doesn't have combustion by products it also doesn't have a filter and the little pieces of wear-metal flowing though there act like sandpaper.

An auto has a filter but my guess is that this fluid can get old as well as the filter clogged. This is the first AT I've had in all my cars dating back to college, but I always drined and refilled the man-trans I had at least once every 2 years.

MB

Reply to
mab992

Most manual transmissions that I've seen have magnets built into the case somewhere in an oil flow path to pick up the ferrous wear metal bits. Doesn't do anyting for the non-ferrous stuff like the blocker rings, but generally the non-ferrous stuff is softer and doesn't do near the damage that the hard stuff does.

JazzMan

Reply to
JazzMan

As far as I know, this is how it works. The detergent in the ATF is supposed to hold metal and dirt particles in suspension. The metal particles eventually stick to the magnet (separate magnet or magnetic drain plug) to take them out of circulation, but the dirt remains suspended in the detergent hopefully to be caught by the filter. Eventually, two things happen. The fluid's lubricating and detergent properties break down from heat, and the amount of dirt in suspension begins to saturate the remaining capacity of the detergent. Eventually, dirt begins to deposit inside the transmission because it can no longer be held in suspension with a worn out fluid.

In theory, changing the transmission fluid and cleaning out the pan where the magnet attracts the metal particles should restore things to normal. But the dirt that has deposited throughout the transmission from the detergent being overloaded remains. New fluid attacks these dirt deposits and dislodges them, but the problem is that the deposits tend to come off too quickly - which then proceed to either clog the tiny passages in the automatic transmission, or to clog the filter - leading to transmission failure.

I think this is why it is recommended NOT to perform a fluid change on high mileage automatic trans that have bad fluid along with an unknown or poor maintenance history. Some have gone as far as to recommend ignoring it completely and just waiting for it to eventually fail from poor maintenance, as opposed to changing the fluid and possibly bringing about an immediate failure. I'm not sure if that is a better idea than to simply have the transmission flushed out using a machine designed for that purpose. At that point, the maintenance history would be reset and there should be nothing to worry about. But there may be horror stories associated with that too.

I do know one fellow personally who bought a used 94 Sable and immediately changed the dirty transmission fluid as part of usual maintenance after buying a used car. He then went on a 1200 mile road trip. The transmission failed approximately 500 miles into the trip. It could be just coincidence, of course.

Reply to
Ryan Underwood

Part of what you state is true but the trick to changing the fluid is a partiall replacement of say 2 or 3 quarts with fresh fluid whereby the cleaning will be more gradual. Then after a few thousand miles change the entire lot since you can't get it all out you're only changing 1/2 to 3/5 depending on the car.

Reply to
mab992

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