right wheel thump

Could be a contaminated spot on the rotor, or maybe the rotor wasn't turned true, or (I've heard) a "hard spot" on the rotor. Maybe even a piece of rust that didn't get removed when the rotor was turned .

Dave

The hard spot was the opposite wheel. It only happens when the brakes are applied fairly hard.

Or they could have left too much play in the wheel bearing,

Jack the wheel up, place hands at 12 and 6, and pull with one hand while pushing with the other, then push-and-pull, back and forth, and see if the wheel wiggles.

It could also be the caliper moving slightly in/on its mountings.

Dave

What method did you use to determine that the *right* wheel is the problem area?

If all you had done was a front brake job, I would suspect that one of the rotors is rust-jacked, turned improperly, or the wheel was not torqued in proper sequence - possibly catching the rotor at an angle other than flat against it's hub.

Toyota MDT in MO

All I did is have the rotors resurfaced because the front end would bounce when the brakes were applied. The pads were good so I left them on.

I did notice the "sockets" where the caliper botls go would not come out easily as the other side did. I took them out and they were scored a little. I cleaned them up and greased them and reinstalled them. I did notice a little round seal inside the bore looked broken a little.

I tested the wheel before I started and there was no play I could tell. I tightened the wheel when d> carnut wrote:

I went over the rotor after being turned with sandpaper for a "non directional" finish.

At this point you could remove the front wheels, secure the rotors to their hubs with the lug nuts (torque them to specs if possible), put a dial indicator on the rotors and check for axial runout. Then you could mic the thickness of both rotors around several different spots and note the maximum-minimum variation per rotor. If axial runout is >

approx .002" then either the hub or the rotor is not true (probably the rotor, dontcha think?) If thickness variation is much > .001" that can tend to cause a pulsating brake pedal and front shake when braking. These numbers aren't set in stone, they're just generic readings where a vibration or pulsation can begin to occur.

Let's say you find that the rotors weren't turned properly... My advice IF you have a K1500 (you just wrote 1996 Chevy 4x4) is to buy new rotors; I've found it difficult to keep those rotors true after a couple turns. They range in cost from about $25 to $50 each depending on brand. If you have an S-10/Blazer 4x4, their rotors are fairly inexpensive as well. I have less experience with them, but have not heard anything about a high rate of rotor warpage in those models.

Toyota MDT in MO

But the sound is a thump and it was not there before I had the rotors turned.

What if I swap the rotors? (Drivers side to passangers side)

Could the sockets that were scored and did not slide easy cause this? Comboverfish wrote: