Several Questions about a 66 mustang

This could be a nice project car, Errol.

As I remember it, my 66 (when new) had a bit of shake at certain speeds. Some of the mechanics here in town tried welding all the unibody seams for some of their customers, but I don't know if it worked or not. On mine, the shaking stopped when I redid the engine for racing and removed the airconditioning compressor. When I replaced it to trade the car in, the shaking returned.

I suspect your problem has nothing to do with the above, and is probably ball joints, shocks, out of round tires , wheel problems, etc or a combination of them. It sounds as though you are going through some sort of harmonic vibrations. You'll just have to start checking out the possibilities.

As far as a rebuild, I would either buy a junkyard rebuildable block and do it myself, or pull my own block and rebuild it. At this point it may already have been rebuilt, and I believe you are limited to 0.060 overbore. (memory). If you are at the limit of the bore, you can usually have it sleeved (wet sleeves if you are ambitious) and go from there.

I believe the 66 289 had a bore/stroke of 4.005/2.87 inches.The 302 had a bore of 4.00 inches and a 3.00 inch stroke. Otherwise they were very similar and you can probably swap with a minimum of problems. I hesitate to say ' a bolt-up' , but not too hard as I remember.

Some of this comes from memory and I hope I haven't steered you wrong.

Thanks for the info. I have some more questions:

1) This is a continuance of the vibration question. After driving it around for a bit, ive noticed that the vibrations arent related to the engine RPMs whatsoever. The vibration happens between 55-60 mph. below 55 and its fairly smooth, above 60 and its a dream. I assume this is a problem with the driveshaft or rear axle somehow. i did put a new u-joint in, could that be it? I greased it really well before putting it in. 2) When i stop my car kinda hard or it get jostled by me getting in or something, i can hear my gas sloshing around in the tank in the back. At about half a tank, the sound goes away. When my fuel gauge worked, IT would only work to halfway too. I assume there are related...but how? 3) My car has a hard time starting when hot. If i shut it off then start it back up immediately, it starts with no problem. But anywhere from 5 minutes to 3 hours later, and i have to have the throttle full open before it starts up. once it starts, it runs just fine. Is this vapor lock? and if it is, whats a good, cheap way to fix it? Id like to keep the mechanical fuel pump. 4) My auto choke is missing some tubes. Where do i find the tube from the exhaust manifold to choke tube and the exhaust manifold to snorkel tube?

I want my baby to be in good mechanical order before i tackle the body work. Thanks for your help!

This is a tire balance problem. Get thee to a tire shop ASAP.

Coincidence. The sending unit can be removed without dropping the gas tank. Just run it down close to empty and put it up on jack stands. On the front top of the tank is the sending unit. You knock open the retaining ring with a screw driver and pull out the sending unit. Replacements are as close as your telephone. See below for details.

No comments.

You can get these from any Mustang supply house. California Mustang Virginia Mustang Mustangs Unlimited National Parts Depot and many more. All of these places have websites and they advertise in Mustang Monthly magazine.

Excellent plan. Driving the car is the surest way to keep your enthusiasm.

Erich

66 Mustang second owner: since 1978 daily driver 69 Mach1 perpetualy project car and garage queen

I can pitch in on the u-joint. On some vehicles it is possible to put the u-joints in out of phase. When this happens, a vibe hits around

55-60 mph.

On the driveshaft, both u-joints need to have the arms running the same way, so the 'ears' for the u-joint both have to be up and down at the same time, not one 'ear' on the side while the other is up.

This can happen on driveshafts with slip yokes or expansion joints on them.

Some can even mess up if the tranny or diff ends get rotated 180. That is why they say to mark them before taking them apart.

The hot starting might just be the nature of the beast. My buddy had a

68 289 and it was like that, needing open throttle to start hot.

The tube from the snorkel can be found as a generic part at most auto supply stores, just measure the size of the opening and match it. It comes as an accordion type tube.

Choke tube... hmm maybe it is still an on the shelf part at the auto stores, be worth checking or the dealer as a last resort. A 302 might have the same part.

Mike

86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's

In mid-1966 model year they changed from a 5-bolt bellhousing to 6-bolt. The blocks are different, so check if you are buying another motor.,

I'd suspect a leaky power valve, dripping fuel into the manifold while it sits, until the float bowl is empty. That's why it floods. To change it, buy a power valve, the square gasket that goes with it (if possible) and a carb base gasket. Remove the carb, turn it over and you will find a small plate about 1/25 inches square secured by 4 screws. Remove the screws, then unscrew the power valve. Replace with new, etc.

I think those are stamped sheet metal. Check with any of the Mustang restoration parts suppliers, such as the one in Oklahoma City.

i put a new kit into the carb already. shoudl have mentioned that earlier. it has a new power valve, accelerator pump, gaskets, etc.