Should I change my transmission filter at 170,000 miles?

It still have the original one in it, and I was wondering if I'm due. And no I'm not considering a flush, I know not to do that, I want to stay on topic to just the filter.

I once had a car where I did it every 30,000 miles, and it was never dirty when I changed it. After 170,000 miles, I'm less sure. Anyone else change a filter on a high mileage ATX and can they report back how dirty it was?

Reply to
zzyzzx
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Vehicle: '94 GrandMarquis 4.6L 34k miles

What I have already done: New plugs and wires. New idle air control valve

Problem: I recently bought this car for my work car. Put around a hundred miles a day on it. It has intermittent rough idle and usually about once a day it will stall. When it is idling smooth you can't tell the engine is running and it has no other problems but sometimes it idles rough and surges... especially with the a/c off.

Turn off the a/c and come to a stop and it idles smooth as glass for about a ten count then falls off to a rough idle with surging. Whole car shakes as it surges but it never goes above a high idle rpm. Ten minutes later it is idling smooth as glass again. This is driving me nuts!!!

Parts replacement (above) had 0 effect on the problem

Any ideas?

Steve B.

Reply to
Steve B.

Definetly change that filter! cuhulin

Reply to
cuhulin

I would clean the MAF sensor. There are pics and instructions around the net. You should also look for vacuum leaks especially in the PCV circuits. The PA+CV circuits also have a habit of becoming plugged with sludge especially in the elbow near the throttle body. If you have not already done so, you should probably remove the throttle boby and clean the EGR ports. They are really just cutouts through the throttle body gasket surface. They also have a propensity to clog. The EGR valve itself is not often a problem - just the ports. While you have it off, clean the throttle body thoroughly. These item are a bit time consuming - good for 1-2 hours. Biggest cost is in cleaning solvents for the MAF which needs a residue free electrical contact cleaner and some throttle body cleaner. You will also need a throttle body gasket sold separately at most parts stores. Parts for PCV circuit are as required.

Lugnut

Reply to
lugnut

Thanx. You hit the problem in the second line.

I stopped by the junk yard today and got another MAF sensor. Tried it and got the exact same thing.

I checked the vacuum lines on the PCV vale and found the big on collapsed so I replaced it which made it a tiny bit better. Then I found the one on the other side of the PCV vacuum source that is well hidden behind the intake manifold and hard as hell to get to. That one had split right open... replaced it and the car runs as smooth as glass.

Thanx a lot for your suggestion. If you hadn't told me the PCV was troublesome I never would have seen that little piece of rubber hose hidden back there.

Steve B.

Reply to
Steve B.

UR welcome. Thanx for the feedback. Sometimes it pays to hit the simple things first.

Lugnut

Reply to
lugnut

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