never had a problem with my rims built by colorado cyclist (started by machine finished manually I presume) and a local shop (manual build) while I was in the states,
but local wheelbuilder here indeed screwed up, got a figure 8, another guy fixed it and it stayed fixed. for now. haven't ridden much since then though
did you gauge their deflection with a 3000lb load? i thought not.
as with many things, a lot of this is relative. colorado and some others build a decent wheel, and a great wheel compared with the vast majority. but 20k miles down the road, does it have a waver in it? my experience says "yes".
most of the time, +/-1mm at that mileage would be considered pretty good and very much acceptable [i.e. it won't rub the brakes]. but when i want a wheel to stay true, i mean within 0.1mm. that is possible, but very very rare.
gauge is mass.
like i said, first cut is even tension. but then it changes. if you want the rim join to be round for example, you need higher tension on the two spokes either side. then the next 2-4 spokes from that need to be slightly slacker to compensate for true. etc. etc. it's complex iterative process with each spoke's tension related to it's opposite pair, and the next 2-4 spokes beyond them.
so you got heavy disks but not the beefed up suspension that likely goes with it. I wonder how that would affect the life of your shocks (and springs)
Actually the car had the HD suspension option from the factory... the original shocks are long gone but it still has the HD springs. Current shocks are cheap Gabriels but I did do my research and find Bilstein part numbers that will work.
but all things considered, if I had the money, the car would probably be better off overall with a nice set of 15" or 16" alloys to reduce unsprung weight, as it's bad for so many different reasons. There's other things I could do as well such as dropping the lower control arm pivots, dialing in more caster, etc...
nate
Wire wheels are heavy and not very strong. Well, I suppose the rim is thick and heavy to make up for the spokes.
The first replacement (in motorsports) of wire wheels were three-piece whee ls with a bolt-in machined center. Take a look at the BBS RS-GT, that's a b olt-in forged center to a one-piece forged rim. Then look at the BBS RGR an d that's a one-piece forged wheel and nothing bolts in. Most current three- piece wheels have the two rim pieces welded and don't require sealing. Take a look at SSR 3-piece wheels. Take a look at OZ wheels for the Corvette at TR.
Now spun rims are rims machined from barrel stock and in two pieces. Then t he center piece bolts everything together but requires sealing. That's the classic three-piece wheel.
Forged wheels are denser than cast wheels but has less impurities. So forge d wheels are magically both stonger and lighter than cast wheels. Take a lo ok at the Volk CE28N and the Volk TE37.
But cast wheels, forged wheels, and spun wheels can all be alloy wheels and that means aluminum when the subject is wheels.
Light weight of wheels is important because a lighter wheel is less force c oming off the road over a bump. Less unsprung weight produces both a better ride and increased traction .
ck and heavy to make up for the spokes.
eels with a bolt-in machined center. Take a look at the BBS RS-GT, that's a bolt-in forged center to a one-piece forged rim. Then look at the BBS RGR and that's a one-piece forged wheel and nothing bolts in. Most current thre e-piece wheels have the two rim pieces welded and don't require sealing. Ta ke a look at SSR 3-piece wheels. Take a look at OZ wheels for the Corvette at TR.
the center piece bolts everything together but requires sealing. That's th e classic three-piece wheel.
ged wheels are magically both stonger and lighter than cast wheels. Take a look at the Volk CE28N and the Volk TE37.
nd that means aluminum when the subject is wheels.
coming off the road over a bump. Less unsprung weight produces both a bett er ride and increased traction
I don't think any wheels look better than wire spoke wheels. Interestlingly , vehicles with wire spoke wheels are hanging from only a few wire spokes p er wheel at a time.
Take a look at the BBS RS-GT.
Designs like that happened in the early 1960's and were a machine shop attempt to resemble a wire wheel.
I don't actually know what to call that type of design but it went on to become a classic design itself.
Unfortunately the bike that had them got stolen from my garage (I did have one) and I did not put nearly enough miles miles to find out.
I don't have a rough downhill like old page mill to stress test the newly built wheels and with local anti bike laws I hardly do any riding lately
I wonder if there were any efforts to bolt the aluminum rims to the steer centerpiece.
(Is my assumption that aluminum wheels typically fracture at the spokes correct or you've seen some failures of the rims themselves? )
hick and heavy to make up for the spokes.
wheels with a bolt-in machined center. Take a look at the BBS RS-GT, that's a bolt-in forged center to a one-piece forged rim. Then look at the BBS RG R and that's a one-piece forged wheel and nothing bolts in. Most current th ree-piece wheels have the two rim pieces welded and don't require sealing. Take a look at SSR 3-piece wheels. Take a look at OZ wheels for the Corvett e at TR.
en the center piece bolts everything together but requires sealing. That's the classic three-piece wheel.
orged wheels are magically both stonger and lighter than cast wheels. Take a look at the Volk CE28N and the Volk TE37.
and that means aluminum when the subject is wheels.
ce coming off the road over a bump. Less unsprung weight produces both a be tter ride and increased traction
There are, or used to be available hub caps that look like spoke wheels. Di d you ever get a pebble in a hub cap?
Not ever, I have retained 3 out of 4 plastic hub covers for the only set of alloys I run now. No pebbles are allowed to enter
why?
thick and heavy to make up for the spokes.
e wheels with a bolt-in machined center. Take a look at the BBS RS-GT, that 's a bolt-in forged center to a one-piece forged rim. Then look at the BBS RGR and that's a one-piece forged wheel and nothing bolts in. Most current three-piece wheels have the two rim pieces welded and don't require sealing . Take a look at SSR 3-piece wheels. Take a look at OZ wheels for the Corve tte at TR.
Then the center piece bolts everything together but requires sealing. That' s the classic three-piece wheel.
forged wheels are magically both stonger and lighter than cast wheels. Tak e a look at the Volk CE28N and the Volk TE37.
ls and that means aluminum when the subject is wheels.
orce coming off the road over a bump. Less unsprung weight produces both a better ride and increased traction
. Did you ever get a pebble in a hub cap?
Older vehicles with hub caps. Some hub caps, there was enough of a gap for a pebble to slip in there and be rattlin around. It has happened to me a fe w times before.
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