Steering Wheel Removal

Hello,

The ignition cylinder/switch has failed on my dad's '84 Olds Toronado. To get at the switch/cylinder requires steering wheel removal. I've looked in the Hayne's book, it states to remove the snap ring and bolt; check. Next, put a steering wheel remover on it and it should come off....ha!

I got a puller, screwed screws in the premade threads and proceeded to take it off. Well, that didn't work as planned...the screws were ripped from their threads and the wheel didn't move an inch. Next up, a gear puller to grab the outer flange of the steering wheel. It's aluminum and as such, can't be subjected to too much force before bending. As a result, I'm at my wits end as to what to try next. I feel like tying a rope around the steering wheel, hooking it up to the back of a truck and flooring it. That's irrational of course. So, any suggestions greatly appreciated!

-Tim

Reply to
Tim H.
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I like your rope idea. Can I watch? ;-)

I've never had the bolts pull out of a steering wheel (are you sure they were in all the way?), even when pulling one that had been sitting in a junk yard for about 5 years. I'd probably try re-tapping the holes in the steering wheel-GOOD AND DEEP-with slightly larger threads & use the puller again with bolts that size.

Last wheel about that vintage I pulled was an '82 Pontiac which had the plate you had to depress to remove the snap ring. You did say you'd removed the ring, so again I'd go with the re-tapped holes/new bolts.

Dan

Reply to
Dan

This method has ALWAYS (many times) worked for me. Retap the holes, slightly oversize, install new bolts & tighten just enough to exert upward force on the steering wheel; using 2 b & p hammers, place one on the shaft-with-the retaining nut screwed flush to the top of the shaft; use the

2nd hammer to tap (rap?) the first. Off she comes! PS: should the puller be in the way, but w/nut still screwed on & flush w/top of steer. shaft, put each knee/leg under opposing sides of st. wheel, & exert a strong upward force on the steer. wheel--and use the 2 hammers so as to hit SQUARELY on the nut-and-shaft assembly. Both cases require nut/shaft assy. be hit squarely to avoid buggering threads on the threaded shaft. And the nut serves 2 functions: one is to allow a bigger flat surface to hit on & save buggering the threads; second is it serves as a safety retainer, as often that wheel comes loose with such a tremendous up-force it can cause face and head injury. Witnessed that once where salvage yard uninstaller cared not about saving the threads on the donor shaft; hence, he did not use the nut. I had to physically escort him back to the main office where they treated his bleeding forehead. Nonetheless, we got the steering wheel, a beautiful black '59 impala wheel that looked wonderful on my slightly customized '55 Chevy. HYH & be careful and good luck................sdlomi2
Reply to
sdlomi2

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