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tearing down my 302 in search of water in oil

OK I am stumped. I first found frothy tan oil sludge in both valve covers and a small bit on the end of the dip stick so I assumed my son (a new driver) got crazy with the pressue washer on the engine. We drained the oil, flushed the engine added new oil and flter and ran it. It stayed clean for about a week then the froth appeared again. I cant figure it out because there is no sign at all of oil in the coolent nor has there been a drop in coolent level Because I have the time and my son needs the experiance we will tear off the heads this weekend and inspect the gaskets and heads. Oh how I hope we find a split gasket because the alternative (cracked head) will effect my sons ability to buy me a decent Christmass gift!! Is it posiable the water pump could transfer oil into the crankcase?

Reply to
curt.bussiere
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If the engine is not warming up to normal temperature and/or the crankcase breather/PVC system is not working you will see condensation show in the oil like you describe. All is probably not lost, I wouldn't tear the heads off just yet....

Chris

Reply to
Hal

My motorcycle, with a sight glass for checking oil, will do this during the winter if I just start it and run it short distances before wimping out and coming home to the warm house. Take it out for a good ride of

50 miles or so, and it clears right up.
Reply to
Frank

Make sure your thermostat is working and the coolant temperature is at least 190 degrees and like the previous post make sure your crankcase is vented properly.

curt.bussiere wrote:

Reply to
Lefty

First, are you losing coolant from the reservoir? Mark the outside of the reservoir with tape when cold before starting. Check it a couple of days afterward to see if you are losing coolant. If you are not losing coolant, the problem is likely related to a deficient PCV system or a bad thermostat allowing it to warm too slowly/too cool. You may also be driving frequent short trips which cause moinsture to build up in the crankcase because of the moisture generated in the cylinders and passing into the crankcase. You need to drive the vehicle 25-30 miles after it is completely warmed on the highway to see if the condition worsens or starts to clear. You are a bit early in diagnosis to be pulling anything off the engine.

Good luck

Lugnut

Reply to
lugnut

No.

I'd guess that you are seeing a condensation issue. Is the crank case ventilation system working right?

Reply to
Scott Buchanan

I had a 1984 Town Car with a 302. There was signs of water in oil. On dipstick there was mayonnaise like goo. Some one had put a 160 degree thermostat in it. Specs called for a 192 degree thermostat. After putting in the right thermostat, the moisture in oil problems went away.

I suspect the cool thermostat didn't let the engine get warm enough to burn away moisture. Lesson learnd: Use the recommended thermostat.

Reply to
I I

Replace PCV valve and check the hose for gunk and clean if needed, replace thermostat, and flush out the oil, common with this engine.

Reply to
sjoblom1

When replacing the thermostat. Use the recommended higher temperature one. If specs call for 195 degree, don't put in a 160 or 180 thermo.

Reply to
J J

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