Tire (ladder-type cable) chain installation tips?

I've posted a similar question in alt.autos.subaru, but I'm looking for other experiences or tips.

The car is a 2004 Subaru Impreza WRX with four almost new all- season tires (Bridegstone Potenza RE960AS). I've tried driving it in the Sierras with Pirelli P Zero Nero M+S, which I didn't think was that great in snow.

At least in California, the AWD with M+S tires is enough to get me waved through R2 chain checkpoints. However - I realize there might be conditions where I still need to get out and put on the chains if there's substantial ice. I've tried installing the chains I've got (Cobra cable chains from Quality Chain) in my garage. They attach via a series of bushings that are fitted into a keyhole end hook. The instructions state that it should be done with the car parked, although it may be jacked up with adequate safety measures (blocking the rear wheels).

So each cable attachment point has 8 bushings. I could get them to the 6th bushing on the inside and outside with these new tires. At that point there was still quite a bit of slack and the cables seemed a bit sloppy. I tried getting the outside cable to the 7th bushing but couldn't. The instructions said to drive the car one length ahead (I didn't try) and retighten. I suppose they may be easier to retighten at that point. There are also some rubber adjusters available to take up the slack. I'm not sure where to find them, but they seem like a good way to make sure the chains are secure w/o overtightening the side cable. They also have a crappy keyhole clip that's supposed to retain the excess side cable. They don't seem too secure, so I might just use velcro ties.

I've looked up other instructions and seen different instructions for ladder-type chains/cable chains, including:

  • Turning the wheels in one direction to make it easier to reach the connector on the inside of the tire.

  • Attaching the chains on loosely, then drive one foot so that the attachment points are vertically at about axle level. Then tighten.

  • Using a jack.

  • Lay out the chain in front of the car and drive over it so the attachment points are near the top or axle.

** ** **

I know I can pay a licensed installer, but I can imagine being in a situation where I need chains and there aren't any installers. I'm also curious as to whether it might be a good idea to get another set. The owner's manual says that chains go on the front, but I've heard many indications that an AWD vehicle with chains only on the front might be more likely to spin out if the rear tires lose traction.

Reply to
y_p_w
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AWD you need chains on ALL four tires. Unless you want to get stuck.

Install the chains as tight as you can, drive ahead a car length or so and then tighten them some more. Now install the bungee style tension bands. Instead of buying the spider type they show you can buy a few of the normal bungee cords and use them by interlocking them to form an X

Reply to
Steve W.

Thanks. I looked around and only found the round chain tighteners with five hooks each. The hooks looked like they could damage my rims. I couldn't find the spider (spoked) adjuster, but I didn't go to any stores that stock the brand of chains I got. At this time of year, I can still find chains here in the San Francisco Bay Area.

I looked for bungee cords at Wal-Mart. The large assorted sized jars had too many sizes I didn't need. The ideal size would be 14-16" because the side cable is maybe 20" diameter. They had 18" bungees sold in 2-packs. I bought them anyways, but then realized I could shorten them by tying a knot. I think two on each chain might work, but three would seem to be ideal.

Reply to
y_p_w

I finally saw some Z-style cable traction devices. A local outdoors equipment shop has a display that includes the Security Chain Super Z6. I played around with it, and it does seem to be really easy to use.

It uses a very flat pin connector (I don't know what the technical term is) that mates in a keyhole latch. This seems to be far more secure than the typical bushing with keyhole hook that I see on most other cable-style chains. There seems to be a lot less that could flap around, and they claim it can fit in less than half the space required for "Type S" clearance. There's one connector on the inside and two on the outside. The "hoop" cables are plastic coated. They also don't use regular steel rollers for the biting surface, but multiple "traction coils" that are wound around the cable. When all three connectors are hooked, there's a lot of slack, which then gets taken out with a rubber tensioner. Overall - it looks like a well thought out design.

It's rather pricey though. I don't know about plunking down $60-70. Still - they look so easy to install that I wouldn't need to worry about paying a chain installer $25 (and I'd still have to take off the chains myself.

Reply to
y_p_w

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