Torn CV boot prognosis

My car (FWD) has a torn rubber boot covering the passenger's side CV joint.

The mechanic said it wasn't possible to silicon it up or anything - it had to be replaced, at a cost comparable to that of replacing the joint entirely (minus parts of course).

He also said that if I did nothing, it would dry up within about a month because the grease lubricating it would get flung out the tear in the boot.

Is this all correct, and what should I do?

Reply to
Old Wolf
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You might want to fix it before the wheel and axle fall off in about a month or two. Get a complete rebuilt axle assembly. It is cheaper.

Reply to
« Paul »

That is correct. If you are feeling froggy they make a split boot that you can put on that has a seam that can be glued but they are a really short term fix. Doubt you will find a pro willing to put one on.

I would go ahead and replace the axle and boot at the same time. You have to do all the labor anyway and the joint is probably worn anyway.

Steve B.

Reply to
Steve B.

And even if you go with the split boot, you would need to completely clean out the joint and regrease it as you have no way to tell how much road grit has already got in and mixed with the grease making a nice abrasive slurry. CV Joints just aren't worth messing with trying to salvage, if the boot is torn, consider the joint trash and replace the whole thing unless you like the idea of loosing your balls while backing out of a space at the grocery store. I've seen it happen, with a half dozen nice big balls rolling around on the ground.

Reply to
Pete C.

Silicone up a rubber boot that is constantly spinning and twisting? C'mon....

Makes sense to me since the same disassembly occurs.

Since the boot is there to keep moisture away from the joint and keep the lubricant in place around the joint, yes that's also correct.

Well, if I weere you I would fix it before it locks up.

Although since you apparently want to save money by using silicone, you might also try some muffler patch tape.

Reply to
John S.

Exactly right. I have tried to use the split boots in the past, and no matter how carefully I do it, they seem to fail quickly. They might ok for a short term patch job, but you need to do it right.

I have seen a boot that can be expanded and slipped over the CV joint from the transmission side, which might allow the job to be done without pulling the axle halfshaft out of the hub. But, unless you are sure the CV is good, there is little to be gained.

Again, probably right. The joint may not be worn, but it is a lot of work to replace the boot (properly) and then find the joint itself fails.

Reply to
hls

That is all correct.

Usually when 'I' see torn boots on CV's or ball joints or tie rod ends, that means the part has worn enough to go beyond the design specs of the boot so it stretches and tears. (unless this is an off road vehicle, where sticks and stones come into play)

I would replace the whole thing because the labor to fix it properly is the same or higher due to cleaning as to change it.

Mike

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Reply to
Mike Romain

Yup, this is true.

This is also true.

Replace the joint entirely. If you replace just the boot, the chances of early failure are high, and it's not much more work just to replace the whole damn thing.

--scott

Reply to
Scott Dorsey

Won't hold. On my old Jimmy I had the same problem - busted boot, and nothing worked - tried duct tape, tried zip ties... eventually I just changed the stupid axle. Wasn't hard, the biggest problem was that on my car you had to pop the tie rod for clearance and was worn too and rusted to the inner tie rod, so one worn CV boot at $5 became a new axle, new shock, new tie rods and adjuster.

But yeah, the only proper way to fix it is a new axle shaft.

Ray

Reply to
ray

Mike Romain wrote in news:46f7c2f4$0$15183 $ snipped-for-privacy@unlimited.newshosting.com:

A split CV joint boot is primarily caused by flexing stresses. Steering, cold, and high ride height exacerbate these.

From what I've seen they take about a year or two from the first signs of cracking to when they finally tear open entirely.

CV joint boots are easy to catch before they actually split. A couple of times per year, turn the steering wheel all the way to one side. Standing in front of the wheel on that side, peek at the inside of the wheel where the joint goes into the steering knuckle. With the wheel turned all the way to the one side, the boot pleats are spread apart as far as they will go, and cracking will be obvious. Repeat for other side. You don't even have to jack the car up or don shop overalls.

Agreed.

Reply to
Tegger

I was making a point...not serious.

Reply to
John S.

He is correct.

Depending on the make and model it may be faster and cheaper to replace the entire axle assembly. On most domestics this is the better option than even bothering to replace one joint. Keep in mind that if one side has torn the other side may not be far behind either.

Not really a hard job for a DIYer. Jack up the front end. Pull the tire. Loosen the large axle retaining nut on the hub end. On most you will want to look at how the lower ball joint comes out of the knuckle and get it all loosened up. Now on many all you need to do to remove the axle is to get a couple of pry bars and go between the inner joint and the transaxle housing and pop it free (kind of like your pulling a nail) You may lose some trans fluid depending on what angle your working at. If so remember to check it and add the correct amount when your done. Now once you have the inner joint free, go and turn the steering wheel to the opposite of the side your working on. So in your case turn LEFT. Now give the axle a good sharp rap with a dead blow hammer or use a block of wood and a hammer. Take the nut off and push the lower ball joint connection apart. Now rotate the steering knuckle to the right by hand and work the axle out of the hub at the same time. Remove the axle and reverse the procedure to install the new one. On a lot of domestics it's about an hours job.

Reply to
Steve W.

lol. I figured you were yanking his chain, but like I said, I tried the

50 cent way of fixing it on a 15 year old truck's front axles, but ended up having to do it the right way because there really is no quick fix for a torn boot on a CV joint that'll hold worth a darn, and if the boot is that badly tore up, it's probably got no grease left in there and is full of grit instead.

Ray

Reply to
ray

Thanks to everyone for the confirmation. Should I have both sides done at once, or just one? (The other side has no visible problems).

(I ask this for the same reason that people recommend changing left and right tyres together -- in case the new part would cause some sort of imbalance compared to the old one on the other side)

Reply to
Old Wolf

If there is nothing wrong with the other side, leave it alone. While it is true that the wear is the same on both sides and if one side is worn out, the other is likely in similar condition, it is not a given. In my experience, the other side usually goes one to two years later. Just keep an eye on it (watch for cracks in the boot) while that extra $200 is still drawing interest in the bank.

If a new half axle is out of balance, it is defective and has to be replaced. Changing the other side will not mitigate that.

Reply to
E Meyer

No reason to replace the other side unless it's worn or the boot is cracked/torn as well. (it might be, if it's as old as it's mate) The two are independent.

Reply to
je.carpenter

Old Wolf wrote in news:1190689829.723445.199790 @n39g2000hsh.googlegroups.com:

No need to deal with the other side until the boot starts cracking. (See my previous message for how to check the boot for cracking.)

I would say this though: OEM (factory) driveshafts are typically of far better quality and last far longer than any aftermarket replacement. If I were you, I would attempt to keep the other shaft as long as possible. You do this by replacing the boot BEFORE it splits.

The cost to replace one outer boot alone can approach the cost of the installation of an aftermarket shaft. However, that one boot replacement will likely be the last time you ever have to deal with that driveshaft. An aftermarket shaft will likely fail on you in a few years.

Reply to
Tegger

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