Torque wrench - questions

I suppose I need to get a torque wrench to use on my wheels. That's about the only thing I work on. The manual specifies 100 lb-ft. What type, brand, and size (3/8, 1/2) that is modestly priced should I consider? Looks like the clicking ones at Sears start around $70 for the 3/8. Since I would not have to use it very often I hate to buy an expensive one. I'm in the city so all the stores are available, but I also don't mind ordering online. Thanks for suggestions.

GS

Reply to
GarySport
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I'd suggest getting a "wand type" (aka beam type) instead of a "clicker type" (aka ratchet type). Your local Schucks/Kragen will have them for $20.

And supposedly they're even more accurate than the clicker type:

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-Ted

Reply to
Ted Johnson

For 100 lb/ft. I'd go with a 1/2" drive since you will need the leverage offered by the longer handle. Clicker is nice, although a old beam style will suffice.

Personally, I have a Craftsman electronic one, but it is a royal pain to set up. (i.e. battery, all assorted driving tools. Beam is quickest since you don't need to screw the handle to the spec. torque setting and then back it off when done).

BP~

Reply to
B. Peg

I second Ted's suggestion. These are available for about $10 sometimes in the 3/8 model, which is fine for 100#. They have a long enough handle to easily pull 100#. I can pull #200 on mine. It's plenty accurate for tires.

Reply to
MaxAluminum

Here's my 2 cents worth:

May depend on your age. I still have the 1/2" drive, beam type torque wrench I've had for many years and it will work fine on wheels. I have alloy wheels and first tighten the lug nuts hand tight, then roughly 50 ft. lbs., then up to the final 80 ft. lbs. Since I use a 6 point socket, and there's no ratchet head on the beam type torque wrench, this has you pulling at some odd angles sometimes. Two passes on four wheels times 5 lug nuts each is 40 tightening passes. Sorry to say, I was beginning to feel this in my lower back sometimes. Yes it costs more, and you need to remember to back it down to the minimum settting after use to preserve accuracy, but if you ever get some extra money, the click type torque wrench with the ratchet and slightly longer handle (25 -250 ft. lbs.) from Home Depot, is unbelieveably easy to use by comparison. The handle can be positioned exactly where needed, and you can push with full force of your arms, instead of pulling with your legs and back so you can see the gauge on the beam type. It is really simple and quick. I can now see why all the professional mechaincs in garages do not use the beam type torque wrench. I think I paid $59 including a hard plastic case. I will still use the beam type for its greater accuracy at low torque values in other uses, but for the wheels, don't believe I'll ever go back to the old way. The new wrench is so much quicker and easier, the difference is amazing - almost effortless by comparison, and takes very little time compared to setting the socket on the nut at an appropriate angle for pulling and then slowly pulling back as the nut tightens and watching the needle as it moves slowly to the correct mark on the index.

Reply to
Daniel M. Dreifus

OK - you're referring to an earlier post? Mine came from Home Depot - their own brand. Had checked the Internet for recommendations, and people suggested that one because it included the case. So far no problems, works great.

Reply to
Daniel M. Dreifus

I use to inspect and calibrate them when I was in the USAF. Irreguardless of which one you choose do not "bounce on it", "Jerk" it around or throw it in the tool box. My 1/2" torque wrench is a Craftsman " micro torque" that I bought sometime in 1986. Maybe paid $60.00 for it back then. It was the most accurate one I have ever tested and I did it often (had use of all gizmos). Always store it on the lowest torque setting (never below). I use to get real pissed when the other outfits brought them in for us to calibrate and they threw them on our metal counter. Greyhound

Reply to
Greyhound

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