Toyota Highlander

rogdog3 @ gmail.com wrote in news: snipped-for-privacy@j32g2000yqh.googlegroups.com:

Are you the poster formerly known as Comboverfish?

Now, I do. It is the 3 litre F engine, 1MZ-FE

Thank you. Please give me a day to get back to you. I'm swamped right now, and unfortunately it's all bullshit and nothing good :-) While you're waiting, perhaps you could check that VIN again and send the correct one. I'm guessing the contiguous 'zeros' was due to an accidental double stroke, but incase I get a chance/need to use proprietary info, a fully correct VIN would be of utmost importance.

Toyota MDT in MO

Thank you. Please give me a day to get back to you. I'm swamped right now, and unfortunately it's all bullshit and nothing good :-) While you're waiting, perhaps you could check that VIN again and send the correct one. I'm guessing the contiguous 'zeros' was due to an accidental double stroke, but incase I get a chance/need to use proprietary info, a fully correct VIN would be of utmost importance.

Toyota MDT in MO

*** I checked the number that was given to me on the phone, and those zeros were there, BUT I suspect I had better drive over and have a look myself. Will get back with you. Thanks in advance.

On Jun 12, 6:59 am, "HLS" wrote:

OK, for the time being I suspect basic info will be all you need, until the time comes that you need to act on getting more keys and you want the dealer to help out. Then I'll see if I can check that VIN for warranty claims. Let me know if it gets to that.

The '03 Highlander is one of the last holdouts of the old "16 bit" PCMs, and as a result doesn't include provisions for a "seed number" reset procedure at the dealer equipment level. What this means, according to Toyota, is that if you lose your last key, specifically a master key (with the black plastic head) then you need a new PCM and new keys cut to your tumbler to start the vehicle again. I have heard of locksmiths with aftermarket PCM flashing equipment (and NASTF SDRM approval) specific to their industry that are capable of resetting 16 bit PCMs, though I've not personally experienced it. From what I understand, this is the cheapest "customer paid" method of getting your master key-less Highlander back on the road. A possible alternative is to go to your local Toyota dealer and see if they will work a deal out to replace your PCM (one time deal). Sometimes they will pay for the PCM and charge you the cost of key(s) and programming labor. I'm not sure which scenario would be cheaper, but it's worth getting a quote on both options. A good relationship and/or past maintenance history with your dealer can grease the wheels, as can a call to Toyota's customer service center as a last resort (try being pleasant and reasonable first, it works wonders sometimes).

On to your (you = sister) current problem. You have one key left. If it is a gray headed "sub key" then you are still somewhat boned. If the remaining key is a black headed "master key" then you are in luck. Previous poster(s) suggesting you need two keys to add another are a bit too Ford influenced to offer accurate info. The easiest way for the DIYer to add a key with one existing master key is to follow the listed scantool-less procedure in Toyota or Alldata service info. You simply insert the key(s) at the correct times and use the gas and brake pedals in a specific order to alert the PCM that you want to add a key. Or you could go to the dealer and pay them to do it with a scantool. Or you could go to a locksmith that has transponder duplicating capability and duplicate EITHER a master OR sub key. If you're OK with driving around with only sub keys forevermore, and don't need the glove box lock to work, then technically you could simply duplicate sub keys all day long. The duplication process is done with a special aftermarket key blank that can be programmed to match your current key's transponder ID. If your last remaining key happens to be a master, then this procedure could also be used, however in this case I would suggest getting a genuine (with different ID) new master key and learning it to the PCM the conventional way as detailed higher up this message.

Toyota MDT in MO

I meant to qualify that the 03 Highlander *V6* is one of the last 16 bit PCM holdouts. The 4 cylinder has been 32 bit since 2001 new model introduction.

Toyota MDT in MO

********** Her key has the black head.. ***********

The easiest way for the DIYer to add a key with one existing master key is to follow the listed scantool-less procedure in Toyota or Alldata service info. You simply insert the key(s) at the correct times and use the gas and brake pedals in a specific order to alert the PCM that you want to add a key.

********* I will pursue this *********

Or you could go to the dealer and pay them to do it with a scantool.

****** This is where I need to get the straight poop. Sis says she went to get them to cut another key, and they said they could not. And that if she lost the one she had, they would have to re-PCM for $1000.

*************

Or you could go to a locksmith that has transponder duplicating capability and duplicate EITHER a master OR sub key. If you're OK with driving around with only sub keys forevermore, and don't need the glove box lock to work, then technically you could simply duplicate sub keys all day long.

*********** For $1000, I think she can live without the glovebox lock ************

The duplication process is done with a special aftermarket key blank that can be programmed to match your current key's transponder ID. If your last remaining key happens to be a master, then this procedure could also be used, however in this case I would suggest getting a genuine (with different ID) new master key and learning it to the PCM the conventional way as detailed higher up this message.

Toyota MDT in MO

************

Thanks very much for your help.

I meant to qualify that the 03 Highlander *V6* is one of the last 16 bit PCM holdouts. The 4 cylinder has been 32 bit since 2001 new model introduction.

Toyota MDT in MO

********* A nearby locksmith, G and G Locks and Safes in Nacogdoches, Texas, says they have the blanks and can cut the keys and reprogram for about $60 per unit.

Heck of a bargain, I think.

Thanks again very much

snipped-for-privacy@d25g2000prn.googlegroups.com...

Referring to your last post, I think that her dealer gave her the wrong info. It happens sometimes when service writers who are paid to know something about cars don't know anything about cars. If she indeed has a black key, then I would get a new transponder key cut via machine duplicated copy (not a punch copy via VIN, they end up snaggletoothed and often very sticky). Go to a good hardware store that has thes transponder blanks or buy one here:

u and program it yourself. If you want the pdf for the instructions let me know (via this email) your preferred email addy. I check this account infrequently but I will get it if the subject has Highlander in it.

Some thoughts:

The colors can be hard to distinguish between black and gray on these keys, IOW I see older black keys and sometimes wonder if they are gray. The best way I've found to be sure (besides checking the key in the ignition with scantool data) is that when I *do* look at a gray key, usually it is pretty obvious it is not black. I see the gray ones very infrequently. Most of the time I'm looking at an old worn black key and wondering if it really is a master, but when you finally see a gray key to compare it's more obvious. Also, if it turns the glovebox then it's a master key.

For ~$20 and a little time you can do this yourself. For $40 you can have two spares, and they will be hardcoded transponder chips (more durable). The locksmith may have been quoting you on a transponder duplication service. I would avoid transponder dupes if you have the option to, and it sounds like you do. That's one more layer of electronics that can fail on you when you least expect it. Just take your ebay blanks to a hardware store and have them copy the mechanical cut for a couple bucks.

You can actually program the uncut blank. That way you can verify that it will be accepted into the PCM's list of transponder keys before having it cut. The way you know it is acepted is by watching the security light go out at the end of the add-a-key procedure. If they don't take then you can send them back for a refund without permanently rendering them useless. I'm thinking of an example where they might mispackage a key for a newer generation Camry - you won't know the difference by looks, but if it doesn't program you know the key is bad or wrong.

My pleasure.

Toyota MDT in MO

Well, that didnt work. Maybe she should just buy a new car.

I may have missed something. *What* didn't work?

Supposedly she had a master key, and went to a locksmith who said he could cut the blank and reprogram to work.. He couldnt. Said back to the dealer.

She needs a new car.

Seems like a rather poor overall design if you have to pay $1000 to get a key made.

Maybe a little too secure, I agree. She had three sets of keys when she bought it, now is down to one, and -with a little cause and effect thinking - sees trouble on the horizon :>)

OK, the locksmith advertises things he can't do. That's him, not all locksmiths. I don't know what more to tell you that wasn't in my earlier, full coverage explanation of what to do, and how you can do it yourself cheaply if the remaining key is a master key, and how a

*competent and well equipped* locksmith could do it either with an aftermarket ECM resetting device or a key cloner even if the remaining key is actually a sub key. I realize it isn't your car, but your attitude sounds defeatist for something so simple. What replacement car is your sister going to get that doesn't have transponder keys and a designed-in lockout mechanism if you want to program in an invalid key? If she does get another car, have the dealership roll 5 extra key copies into the financing.

It is a little defeatist, although you gave great advice, for which I am truly grateful.

If it were mine, I would already have the new keys.