Trouble taking apart alternator

why do you need to get the armature out of the front half of the housing? can't you just replace the stud and be done with it? maybe I'm not visualizing this correctly.

anyway, yes, that bearing is often a tight fit. I ASSume that there's a special press for the job, but I usually just use a plastic mallet. Probably not the right tool for the job but I haven't (touch wood) screwed one up yet.

nate

As someone who professionally rebuilt alternators at one time, I feel qualified to answer this question.

If your alternator is what I'm thinking it is, the pulley nut comes off and the pulley should come right off. To get the rest of the alternator apart, though, there are 3 (or 4) other bolts ... sometimes having phillips type screw heads on them (though a wrench is always easier to get them out). Once they are out, the rest of the alternator should come apart.

You didn't say what year car this alternator is for (I'm imagining it's around 89-93 or so), so I don't know what type battery post is in it ... but in some cases you can replace the battery stud with a regular bolt (be sure to replace all the insulators or you're going to have a problem) and in some cases you can't. I don't know which is which in this case because I don't have the alternator in front of me.

As a caution, be sure to put the pulley back on with all the spacers and things or you risk cracking the housing when you put it back together.

Be careful. The slip rings could be hanging up on the brushes. They won't stand up to a lot of punishment so don't force it unless you are sure that the brush assembly is clear of the rotor.

I don't know that one, but in many alternators with integral regulators, the regulator can be removed and the brush assembly accessed behind it. In some cases, the regulator and brush holders are a single unit.

Thanks for the responses. I've been away for a while, but this group still kicks ass.

I finally got the thing apart by gently tapping on the case. The brushes were probably indeed hanging it up.

I was able to tap out the remainder of the bolt with a drift. For this photo, I have partially inserted the splined end of the stud into it's sleeve, and put the broken end in the other side to give an idea of the size:

Can anyone tell me what this type of bolt is called, and/or where I might possibly find a replacement? Here's an extreme close-up of the bolt to give a better idea what it looks like:

If I can't find a replacement, I was thinking of "JB-Welding" the pieces back together, or finding someone to possibly TIG weld it for me. Any other ideas? There doesn't see to be any local Alternator-repair places that will sell parts; they want $$$ for a re-built unit...

Finally, here's another shot of how the bolt looks lined up at the point of the break--and is somewhat close to actual size at approx. 2":

Thanks again for the help.

Pigeon

Hmmm. Perhaps it's possible to use a regular bolt instead of the original splined stud? Please see my other post with the pics. It's a Mondo alternator, made in Korea, on a '91 Hyundai Excel.

Pigeon

Why don't you just take the corresponding bolt from the alternator that doesn't work?

nate

­­because it's in the car that runs, and I have to drive somewhere to get the pulley-bolt taken off with an impact wrench. Plus I would be stranded if something went wrong, or took longer than anticipated. Also, I will be need 2 alternators for both my Excel's, and I don't think I could get core credit for the one with the broken bolt. (unless I just "JB Welded it" and innocently handed it over ;-)

I didn't think it was possible to drive without the alternator, could I get away with it without screwing anything up? (assuming the positive lead was safely isolated, of course)

Pigeon

Any bolt will work as long as it's insulated properly. FWIW, when I was in the business, I'd have sold you the stud you need without trying to sell you the whole alternator. I don't know what it would've cost, but it probably would've been a phone call away.

Don't mention it and they won't notice. It's not like you didn't already try to buy the bolt from the same place... what do they expect you to do?

Sure, as long as you don't go far enough to drain the battery - assuming that you can remove the alternator belt without disabling any other accessories.

nate

Pigeon Hohl writes in article dated Wed, 05 Oct 2005 17:53:21

-0700:

Another option would be to use the impact wrench to loosen the bolt, then re-tighten it with a rachet. That way you'll be able to get it off later with the rachet.

I'd just argue. "Hey, you told me you'd refund the core charge when I brought in the broken one, and here it is." They will take it.

Yes you can do that if your battery is in good shape. Do it during daylight, and turn off all unnecessary electrical accessories (blower, radio, etc.).

I haven't read the whole thread but why don't you fix the car that doesn't run first, then use that while you're fixing this one?

-- spud_demon -at- thundermaker.net The above may not (yet) represent the opinions of my employer.