URGENT - Is it possible / advisable to clamp brake lines?

The OP has stated that it takes more force at the pedal than it used to stop the car. More force = more pressure to do the same work = diminished performance.

I did not say the brakes were magically fixed I said they were magically BROKEN. The car was operating "normally" and the next morning the caliper was stuck ON. The mechanic had to un stick the caliper.

I don't really care how far the pedal travels. I do care that it travels further than before and that it takes more force to stop the car than it did before. I don't buy the stuck caliper thing... Firstly because the OP stated that the caliper stuck on and had to be unstuck and secondly because if the rear brakes were now working properly and were not before then it should take less or equal amount of force to stop the car.

Quote from OP "Well, I definitely have to push the pedal further in, but I also have to apply more force to the pedal to get it to stop at the rate I am used to. In other words, if I push on the brakes in the way I am normally used to, the car takes a lot longer to come to a complete stop. "

I don't think either of us is getting anywhere with the other on this one... If other members of the list also think this could be the problem and that a line lock test would reveal the problem I would like to hear their experiences to further my own knowledge.

Steve B.

If the car was operating normally and the brakes working as they should why did he take it in to have the brakes fixed?

You don't know that is true. I suspect the brakes work much better than they did before. The OP knows he should get a second opinion. He just doesn't want to take it to another mechanic who gets to actually look at the car. He would prefer to get a second opinion from someone on Usenet who doesn't get to examine the car.

-jim

Since a few weeks ago,a neighbor whom owns a small 1987 GMC pickup truck,he said his truck needs a new brake master cylinder.He said he is a certified mechanic.He actually works for a door company that installs the kinds of doors which are used in factories and similar places.Just out of curiosity,I was wondering about how much money it will cost him to replace that brake master cylinder? cuhulin

Napa Online shows several possible master cylinders for that unit.. Rebuilts run about $33. New generally run $80-120. One odd new one went to $174

...bet that $174-one was for a diesel: "hydravac", or similar name, that gets its power assist from ps pump. HLS, you, several others, and I have patiently stood in here with this guy's unusual determination, huh? Quite honestly, I've never heard of that name for this test, altho' I've done very similar--a few times, only--using old steel line segments, hammered closed on the ends. Kept several in my tool box, but seldom used them. Actually looked for them, did not find; but did come up with several old 'tools' I made and forgot about over the years, reviving good memories. I'll tell you sometime about a "set of tools" I made & still have. Did good job on Chev's, removing starter bolt-ends that were rung off up-inside bell-housing/block. Seen engines pulled to repair otherwise. If you're still spinning wrenches, esp. on older cars like we still use here in SC, you may want to make a "set". sam

It's always fun to make tools for special purposes/reasons.Let us read about yours. cuhulin

I pull wrenches less often than I used to, but still enjoy working on my own stuff. I have made a few special purpose tools in my day too, and would be very interested in seeing what you have.

Thanks for your comments..

you're thinking of a "hydroboost;" the "hydravac" was a different kind of brake booster used inline with the brake lines but operated by engine vacuum. They were used on STudebaker cars at least and some older trucks with underfloor master cylinders.

nate

How has it been resolved?

And does the car "somewhat" stop now?

Yikes.