Was it really my alternator?

Yes, an alternator can just go out. It can also be bad but not dead for a long time before that. What you described certainly sounds like the alternator went out and then your were living off the battery till it was completely discharged and the car wouldn't run anymore. I had that happen on a 76 Blazer and it had *just* enough power in the battery to keep the engine running UNLESS I put the brakes on, .. when I put the brakes on the extra power draw to light up the brake lights just about killed the engine, so I drove the last mile home using the emergency brake instead so the brake lights would not go on.

It sounds like you got an honest mechanic that charged you a fair price for the parts and a fair price for the labor. Most likely that is why his shop was so full of cars that he barely had room for yours.

They put in a new battery? They forgot to charge you for it? You didn't go back to rectify the situation? And you are questioning the shop's honesty?

From my experience, when the alternator goes, you start having problems like you describe. Then, when the alternator dies, you're running off battery power, so it's possible to kill the battery as well if it goes on long enough - car batteries don't like to be totally discharged too many times.

I've had alternators fail completely - no charge at all. I've had alternators go where you get about 10A of charge - enough to keep the car running, but if you turn the lights on you can watch the voltage slowly drop...

It's possible you didn't need a new battery, but I think that your alternator was definitely toast. You said he gave you the old one - take it to Pep Boys and have it tested if you think it was something else...

Honestly, it doesn't sound like you got ripped. In fact, I think you might want to consider adopting him as your new mechanic - he's within walking distance and seems decent.

Ray

Unclear here whether the hesitation involved any sound, or silence. I'd expect sound if the charging system was involved, the low sound of the starter cranking slowly, or the clicking of the solenoid if the battery was too low. Silence, then cranking normally, would tell me there's a connection bad somewhere, maybe at the battery, or inside the solenoid.

All this suggests a number of things, which could include a run-down battery. But...

Either magic elves charged your battery while you worked, or the charging system was fine and something else is wrong with your radio, perhaps the on-off switch or a ground strap.

That's extremely strange that the hazard lights would work when NOTHING else would.

Or bad connection. But you mention that possibility later.

The prices don't sound bad. Most likely he bought the alternator from a place he trusts to give him alternators that last past the guarantee, something you might not have gotten with the cheaper on-line alternator.

That's why I'm suspicious.

HOWEVER...

Recently my '94 Acclaim developed a charging-system problem and stranded me. I limped it to a friend's house for a full charge before limping it home. At home I got out the voltmeter and traced the problem to a bad connection on the field terminals of the alternator (external voltage regulator, relatively uncommon these days). Cleaned the connections and it worked for two weeks without a single hiccup.

Then it went out again. I got out the voltmeter again and this time things weren't so certain. It would come and go.

Leaving out a long litany of clues, it turns out the brushes in the alternator only lasted 133,000 miles and I decided to replace the alternator with a reman unit and get new brushes, bearings, etc. instead of replacing brushes in the alternator.

Most of the places I checked wanted $109-129 for the alternator. One place I checked wanted $159. The $109 unit was the wrong part for the car. Looking at the $159 unit, it was identical in every way; packing, documents, even the nylon tie-wraps they put in holes so you need to break them to install the unit (and they can tell not to refund your money then). BUT the place that had the expensive unit was able to look up the part by a number that was found on the old factory alternator, and they got the *right* unit for $126. This place is now getting a sizeable portion of my business.

There's usually a core charge for the alternator. If you didn't give it back, it cost someone money. That might be the $49 difference you mentioned.

It sounds unlikely to me, and you may see the radio problem again. But if the car keeps starting, well, success is its own reward.

The important part of the long story I told is that my alternator was SOMETIMES working. It's possible it was working often enough at first to keep the battery *mostly* charged, charged enough to start the car, at least until the time it stranded me. Might have happened to you, too.

A weak or fading battery WILL cause an alternator to fail, as it is charging full all the time without respite.

Your reciept should have stated what parts he installed ..

Sounds to me like your battery COULD have caused the alternator to fail .

I had this happen twice on an `86 Accord.

Well said, Steve...I wouldn't feel right about this if I did not talk to the shop and make sure the bill was correct. Humping a good mechanic for a few bucks is not good press.

No... I meant to say shiny new ALTERNATOR. They didn't give me a free battery.

My isuzu rodeo does the same things. I thought it might be the battery cables but haven't replace them. also I am hesitant to take it to the mechanic. I thought about getting a new altenator but didn't know if there was another issue if it would hurt it.