Which pad is "better?" Ceramic or semi-metallic?

A hand impact may work better than an air impact for that application, actually. (I'm assuming it's a flat head Phillips screw or similar, much like VW used to use. On a VW you really need the screws though as they use lug bolts, not lug nuts, and trying to line up a wheel, rotor, and hub so you can get the first bolt started can be somewhat frustrating.) Likewise the hand impact is the shiznit for door hinge screws.

Reply to
N8N
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That surprises me, I thought that the DSM's had a pretty good following among the ricer crowd. I hate Mitsubishis on principle, but the early Eclipse seemed to be the one car that they managed to screw up and actually make somewhat reliable.

I was really disappointed in the average knowledge level of the posters to the Impala forums. Likewise with the Ford truck forums (even though the F-series is supposedly the most popular vehicle on the planet?) Jeep owners seem to be heavy into DIY which is good, there's real basic level DIY instructions posted for just about everything, so it's easy to plan a weekend thrash without actually having to get under the vehicle beforehand (which is difficult when the entire amount of daylight in any given weekday is spent at work and not anywhere near vehicle of concern.)

Which, truth be told, is probably fine. I just feel better when using the best parts possible, especially when I've pared down the stable quite a bit and don't have a whole lot of extra vehicles laying around (right now I still have the Ford pickup, but that'll be for sale as soon as I get caught up on the maintenance on the Jeep.)

nate

Reply to
N8N

I'll give 10 ignorant, functionally illiterate nitwits for every knowledgeable Hondahead asshole you can come up with.

No accounting for tastes, I reckon. -----

- gpsman

Reply to
gpsman

yeah, more underinformed drivel based purely on lack of experience and inability.

hubris and hypocrisy, they name is nathan j nagel.

you'll never catch up on the maintenance on the jeep because you don't have the ability to do it yourself. and you won't be able to get other people to do it for you because you're such a horse's ass, they'll rip you off and not do the work so you don't go back. just like your retarded frod.

Reply to
jim beam

more underinformed unexperienced misinformation propagated by a math history fudging, wine tasting, lego assembling, can't get his hands dirty, too tight to buy the proper tools "engineer" - air/electric impacts work superbly in those situations and much better than hand impacts.

[and for anyone but nate, use a #3 phillips, not #2 - the primary cause of removal failure is the wrong driver head size.]
Reply to
jim beam

More bullshit from the guy who thinks he knows a hell of a lot more than he does. The hand impact that you strike with an engineer's hammer works better. Try 'em both back to back. the air impact will cam out on the really hard to remove fasteners while the hand impact won't.

The downside is that it's theoretically rougher on the hub bearings, but... sometimes you gotta take that risk, when the air impact just won't work.

It's so rich how you're so quick to condemn those who know what they're talking about when you obviously haven't a clue.

That much is true. And make sure that you in fact have Phillips and not Pozidriv screws - the drivers are subtly different although for non-seized fasteners functionally interchangeable.

nate

Reply to
N8N

Use a hand impact screwdriver, the correct driver bit for the fastener head and a dead blow hammer or, alternatively if you don't have one, a block of wood between a metal hammer and the hand impact screwdriver. Use a light coating of anti-seeze on the threads and chamfer of the screw head when reassembling.

Reply to
Hoof Hearted

Don't forget the also somewhat different Reed and Prince (Frearson) cross head design, the JIS B 1012 type (Japanese improved "Phillips" design) and the Supadriv (mostly interchangeable with Pozidriv). My experience is that the Japanese Phillips equivalent work better than the others, or maybe the Japanese just use better screw material.

Ed

Reply to
C. E. White

Thanks for the info. I bought the Craftsman hand impact set in the 70's but have never used it. My friend had it. I guess he must have used it on his Ghia drums. My Mazda RX-2 used to have bolts instead of studs which I always liked better. The Hyundai's brakes are easy to work on except for those dopey screws. That's the breaks. :-)

Reply to
dsi1

Thanks!

Reply to
dsi1

Both can be very hard on the bearings. The hammer type actually is better IF the item comes free on the first or second hit. The air/electric ones do their damage through the repeated anvil strikes. It's one of the reasons why, if I'm removing wheel lugs with an impact I NEVER lock the brakes or block the wheel. The reason being that although you lose a bit of the impact through the minor motion of the wheel, that same motion helps protect the bearing surface from the impacts.

Yeah I'm always amazed at the folks who think that all screws with a crossed slot are "phillips", and then compound that error by grabbing the good old #2 bit....

Reply to
Steve W.

nope. if you're not had success with a rotary impact driver, it's because you're inexperienced and not doing it properly.

well, if you used the correct bit like i said, and didn't have weakened wrists that could hold the freakin' tool properly, you'd never experience this "problem".

hammer "impact" drivers do no more than a hammer blow would anyway - an ordinary screwdriver and hammer work just as well. [if you'd ever disassembled one of those "drivers" - and you had any sense - you'd be able to see why.]

except that rotary impact drivers do, and very well. without damaging bearings.

that's the thing - the people that /think/ they know what they're talking about when they don't have sufficient information aren't necessarily a problem. it's the people that think they know what they're talking about /after/ they've been told facts to the contrary that have a problem. like you.

there you go, trying to masquerade some diced carrots of relevance from a bucket of irrelevant verbal spew. in the mean time, go ahead and list some cars that use pozidriv on their u.s. models...

Reply to
jim beam

while unbraked wheels are good practice for other reasons, bearing protection is not one of them - rotary impact drivers don't exert any impulse that loads radial bearings.

Reply to
jim beam

japanese screws are generally better, partly for material, but mainly because their q.c. is very good and they dimension better. nothing like worn punches and poor penetration for ensuring driver problems.

Reply to
jim beam

And before you start on the "engineer" BS, I was working on rusty old cars long before I even went to college - so I do have something of a clue as to what works and what doesn't.

nate

-----------------------------------------------

Similar experience. I toiled as a line mechanic in a Chrysler-Plymouth and later at a Fiat-Mazda dealership, in the early and mid 70's before obtaining my BSME in '81. My professor authored our Materials Science text book.

Reply to
Hoof Hearted

Wow a worthless advice spewng buffoon who's never so much as competently employed an impact screwdriver.

CLOWN!!! I'd love witnessing him spouting such an inane claim to a group of (especially hardcore) bikers (which the tool was BORN for) and seeing the ensuing stomping he'd inevitably receive for being such an overt, pretentious and supercilious poseur.

Reply to
Hoof Hearted

I bought a strikeable impact wrench which is cheap, and works darn well for this sort of thing. Use the right bit, fit it into the screw or bolt head, and hit it with a BFH. That impace forces the bit deeper into the screw head and gives a lot of torque to break the fastener out.

Works better than a power impact wrench.

Reply to
hls

The hand impact that you strike with an engineer's hammer works better.

**** Sorry, but I posted on the same subject. These hand driven impacts are cheap and work wonders on this type of situation.
Reply to
hls

Is OK. I apparently need all the backup I can get :)

n
Reply to
Nate Nagel

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