Which pad is "better?" Ceramic or semi-metallic?

Really? Why, are you so insecure or lacking in self-respect that you require and highly prize the support of opinionated, conspicuously unknowledgeable, total strangers, some of whom unquestionably couldn't start to locate their own ass with a mirror, map and detailed multimedia instructions?

My plan of attack is to make sure the tool is set to go in the right direction, apply tool to screw head, and hit with BFH or LFH. I think that it ain't rocket science like some folks claim. Anyway, ceramic pads rock! My guess is that these will be what everybody uses because they're noiseless.

One of the two types I have has extended length bits, combined they have yet to fail to either access or remove a fastenener.

"pozidriv impact bit" returns over two million results...

granted, I only looked at the first page but it looks like they are made by several different manufacturers, some of which you may have heard...

nate

It's not. I had no idea that my attempt to be helpful and recommend an inexpensive tool that's ideal for the job would cause such an uproar.

Well I got the PF "Carbon Metallics" on, tried to bleed last night but couldn't - only got a small dribble/stream out of all four bleeders with the pressure bleeder pumped up to 15-17 PSI. Think the vehicle needs new hoses - I suspect they are original. Pedal pressure was always high, was on list of things to investigate, but while brakes were "not normal but OK to drive" before now they're not. I know bleeder screws aren't clogged because I got a nice squirt when pressing in pistons; for the same reason I know that the calipers themselves aren't seized up and the sliders are actually in great shape. Pedal drops when I start engine and no vacuum leak noises so I booster seems OK. Will get new hoses and try again. I did take a spin around neighborhood and tried a few hard stops but I am not developing enough pressure to feel comfortable going anywhere but around the block at low speed - I couldn't invoke ABS and I'm not a weak guy. (I was able to get it to kick in before.) Hope my FLAPS sells an inexpensive pedal jack so as not to run the HCU dry; I haven't ever needed one before so I don't have one. Otherwise I'll have to improvise with scraps of 2x4 :) (although even if I get the brakes working well I still will probably run it by a shop that has the scan tool to properly bleed the HCU just for peace of mind.)

But the point of this post was, the PFCM are utterly and completely silent, which is nice. Didn't use any special goos, just a dab of anti-sleaze on the pad/caliper interfaces.

nate

Made in Kenosha:

I have used ceramics and metallics, and have had good results and long life as long as I use a good grade pad (i.e., not the cheap stuff).

Your use of a hand impact tool will probably get the job done. Much more likely than grinding away at it with a rotary impact unit.

At least with this type of tool, you are applying pressure via the hammer rap to keep the bit in the groove at the same time the bit is rotating.

Good luck and let us know how it comes out.

I have no explanation as to how this came about either.

I don't know why you're having trouble with dribbling bleeders. You might want to go to plan "B" which is having your friend pump the brakes while you yell "down" and "up!"

The new pad materials sure are quiet. :-)

I don't anticipate any problems. The rotor looks pretty clean and in good shape. Heck, I'll even use the correct impact bit. What could possibly go wrong? :-)

Thanks for the encouragement.

It's not the fact that I can't bleed (I could, but not really well,) it's the fact that I can't bleed combined with the requirement for lots of shove on the pedal to get normal stopping power. That was the one thing I noticed before, even with the old brakes - they worked acceptably enough to drive home, but force was high. With the new stuff, it's higher yet (because the stuff isn't bedded in? Because they just have slightly less friction? who knows?) and unacceptable. With new pads/rotors and good calipers, that says to me that there's a serious flow restriction somewhere, so I'm going to assume that I need new hoses because all the other possibilities are much more expensive and/or not feasible for a DIY because it'll involve having to bleed the HCU :) Besides, 13 years is a good run for a rubber hose anyway.

nate

My usual problem is lack of room to actually swing a hammer with enough force to do any good. I might be able to get the tool on the screw, but I end up in a space that makes it hard for me to swing the hammer and actualyl do any good. I am not saying they don't work. I just think there are only a limited number of situations were they can work. I understand why manufacturers use cross point screws, but I often wish they hadn't when I am working on some old rusty piece of equipment.

Ed

My guess is that you should check the vacuum assist booster. I have no idea how you do that but making sure that the vacuum line is providing a good vac and listening for air leaks would be a good start. Making sure the brake lines are clear would be the next thing you could do. After that, I don't know.

I think that the new materials are less grabby but your main problem is one of low line pressure. Having a hard time stopping is a major problem so good luck with this!

that's a hand tool bit, not impact. impact is never chromed, even on a holder. chrome is micro-cracked, and those cracks initiate fatigue.

they are hard to find ed. i can't find them at sears, home depot, lowes, ace hardware, snapon, mac, etc. and for the functionally illiterate i'm talking about "HAND IMPACT", two words, singular function. not "hand" like screwdriver or "impact" like rotary.

that's a rotary impact bit, not axial.

i had one - it was no better than a punch. gave it away on craigslist. but my rotary impact is a fantastic tool. works every time. and more importantly for the people that can't think past using a bfh, there are applications where hammering to loosen screws is a significant problem.

the door catches many cars are positionally adjustable to ensure fit accuracy. and the door pillars onto which they are screwed are [thick] bent sheet metal. it's easy enough to dent that stuff with a hammer blow, even if it's to the attached catch unit. but if you're moving those things, you'll find that they're torqued up real tight to stop them sliding or working loose. much too tight to loosen with a normal hand-held driver. yes, you can loosen with a bfh, but then you run into the denting problem. the factory solution, the one that works great if you're not a limp-wristed ineffectual and are using the correct size tool bit, is the rotary. one good buzz, and they come off perfectly every time. and probably more importantly, they re-tighten properly every time too, no damage to the screws.

either you really are functionally illiterate, or you're being deliberately obtuse. you should be googling for:

'"HAND IMPACT" pozidriv bit'

note the position and type of quotations and my prior response to ed.

the relevant returns have bits only available as parts of a set. and the rest are rotary - which is what anyone familiar with the art would expect because that is what's used in production.

We're not talking about production we're talking about maintenance and repair... and now are you really going to try to convince me that an impact bit that is used with an air impact is somehow different than one that you'd use with a hand impact? You're so delusional it's amusing (either that our you are finally realizing that you're wrong and are trying to weasel out of admitting it)

nate

Normally I would actually agree with you on this one but the Snap-On people apparently expect you to use that with the impact driver.

nate

Indeed... I don't think it's the booster, as the pedal drops when you start the engine, I'm gonna start with hoses. After that... well, might be time to take it to a shop while it's still sorta-driveable (would run it over there during off-peak hours of course) so as not to have to pay for a tow. I'm not aware of an affordable scan tool that will do the HCU bleeding procedure, although if someone has info. to the contrary I'd certainly be interested in that.

I doubt that I will be working on the brakes again for at least a couple days as I have a whole case of various synthetic lubricants sitting around, I might as well get all the fluids changed and get that out of the way before spending any money. The weather is supposed to be nice this weekend which is good, I wanted to clean/ derust/paint the diff covers and trans pan while doing the service, 'cause I'm anal-retentive like that. Long story short - I may not post an update on this particular issue for a while because I have other stuff that needs to be done as well.

nate

paint doesn't mean a damned thing. brakes are a life safety issue. and while you'd be doing the gene pool a considerable favor by taking yourself out of it with bad brakes, it's the threat you pose to others that is something about which you evidently don't have the slightest clue.

unbelievable idiot.