04 Corolla AC stopped working...advice?

It's an 04 CE with manual trans, and about 100 K miles. It has stopped blowing cold air, just blows ambient. The compressor would run initially for a minute or two before, but now is not cycling at all. I do see a jump from 800 to 1000 RPM when I push in the AC button, which will then drop back to a little higher level, 900 RPM, as long as the button is left in. This must be the computer control, as The compressor is NOT turning. I put my R-134 gauge set on it, and it shows 60 psi on high side, and abt 55 on low side. I guess this is just gauge error, and both sides are equal, I looked at the data stickers on the car, but did not find one showing the service charge. My Haynes manual also does not give any charging specs. I tried to add a little Arctic Freeze with oil and leak sealer to the low side, but although the valves are open, none would go in. I guess that is what would happen when you still have this much system pressure? If this is what system pressures you would expect when the compressor not running, then I need to look at the compressor electrical controls, I guess?

Reply to
geronimo
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If the compressor is turning, the pressures you indicated are too high on the low side and to low on the high side, which is an indication of a bad compressor. If the compressor is not running, then the system eventually equalizes.

If the compressor is not turning, check for power at the compressor clutch. You should get 2 volts at the clutch with the switch on.

Is the AC light flashing by any chance?

Reply to
Ray O

You are low on refrigerant. The "off" pressures are normal.. Actually a bit lower than they often can be when off. Why in the heck would you put that oil and leak sealer in the system..?? Good way to ruin the whole mess.. You don't need to recharge oil on slow leaks, and leak sealer is bad mojo. Besides, if you have a leak, it's probably the seals in the compressor, and leak sealer is not going to fix that. You will have to jump the low pressure switch in order to recharge the system. The increase in RPM is the A/C idle up solenoid, or whatever they use on that car. That is normal. With the A/C compressor running, the idle should be fairly close to what it is with the A/C off. If they didn't use an idle up, when you had the A/C on, your idle would too slow due to the extra drag. Seals often deform and start to leak from sitting too long. A good reason to always run the compressor at least once a month, even in the winter. If by chance you jump the pressure switch and the compressor doesn't run you have an electrical problem, but I'm fairly sure it's just off on the pressure switch. The way it used to come on for a minute and cut off is a classic sign of low pressure. It will cycle on,off, on, off all day long if you let it.. Course, yours is too low now to run at all.

Reply to
nm5k

Right, jumpering the pressure switch, as mentioned in the Haynes manual, allows the compressor to operate and draw down the pressure on the low side, so the refrigerant in the can will go in. 55psi is probably too high so you can't charge any.

If the compressor is seized (bad clutch for example), then the AC light would be flashing beacuse the engine and compressor RPMs differ too much.

As far as cans with sealers, well that's all WalMart sells. But I think it's just o-ring sweller right? You probably need to charge a "normal" system every 3-4 years. At least for Toyotas.

Reply to
johngdole

Reply to
johngdole

OK...I'll get a can of pure R134a. Jump compressor switch to get it running. I know to put hand on evaporator line and feel when it gets cold. But I still want to have an idea of what the pressures are going to be when I should stop, when it is at optimum. Do you know the numbers for high and low side? Thanks!

Reply to
geronimo

The pressures depend on the ambient temperature. Try this temperature/pressure chart:

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The proper way to charge the system would be to use a refrigerant recovery machine to discharge and evacuate the system and then recharge with a measured quantity of refrigerant.

Good luck!

Reply to
Ray O

After a little more internet research I found out that I could force the compressor on simply by jumping the appropriate two terminals where the magnetic clutch relay plugs in. When I did this, the AC ran just fine.....40 deg F discharge temp. Thought it might be that the relay was bad. However, it checked good, activating it from the car battery/jumper wires and testing the load terminals with ohmmeter. So I reseated it in the socket, tried AC again....and the compressor is now running/ controlling as it should. Apparently some tarnish/corrosion built up on the relay socket contacts, just enough resistance to prevent the compressor clutch from energizing.

Reply to
geronimo

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-- lots of FACTORY manuals for free.

My 1986 Corolla has needed only 1/2 can of R-12, unlike my Ford with its funny push-together connections.

Reply to
larry moe 'n curly

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