1. Home
  2. General Toyota Forum
  3. 150k miles 98 4cyl camry. Brakes issue and tune-up info questions

150k miles 98 4cyl camry. Brakes issue and tune-up info questions

I have a 98 4 cyclinder camry approaching 150k and I was hoping folks could chime in and make sure I'm covering all my bases regarding Camry maintenance. At 99-100K, I utilized my extended warranty contact and did a full tune up and got everything covered under warranty including timing belts, oxygen sensor, ax seal and trany pand replacement, replacement the leaking axle seal. I drive about 100 miles a day, freeway driving, and I do not drive the car hard.

Immediate issues:

1)My brakes are making noise again so I need to get the pads swapped ASAP. I last did this at Midas for $225.64. My question is do I really need them to clean and adjust rear dram brake labor for $25 or resurface front brake rotors for $50 if I just did brakes at 90k? Or is this an upsell tactic? With Midas having lifetime warranty on brakepads, I do know I just have to pay for the labor at $80.

2)At 99k, took the car into the dealer and told them it was hard to start cold. The engine would die and I had to use the gas pedal to keep the engine running.

This is what the show in the invoice:

895521 Idle Air Control R&R 2272 CTEC 22270-74291 Valve Assy Idle Spee 22215-74400 Gasket 00289-2CC00 Non-Chlorinated Carb

Found ISC Valv P/A ISC Valve

This seemed to fix the issue at the time, but it has arisen once again at 150K.

Hope that helps. Does anyone know what exactly is outline above and should this have a warranty of greater than 50K? Is this related in any way to sparks, plugs, and wires? I do not believe I have ever changed these things. Do they ever need to be replaced?

3)Coolant/Anti Freeze was changed at 99k. How often should this be changed and should I do a flush or just refill? Also, if I do oil changes myself, how difficult would it be to flush the coolant myself?

4)Transmission was changed at 115k. Is this needed every 30K? Should this be a drain and refill or a complete flush?

5)Brake Fluid - How often? Flush or drain and refill?

6)Fuel Filter? How often? What does this do for me?

7) Differential Fluid? How often? Is this different from transmission fluid?

8)Spark Plugs? I don't think I've ever had these changed. What is the recommended schedule and what does this provide?

Reply to
tallassazn
Loading thread data ...

Th rear drum brakes should be cleaned and adjusted if they are out of adjustment. With the rear wheels off the ground, give the tire a good spin by hand. They should rotate once or twice and stop. If they keep spinning then they could use an adjustment.

I would not resurface the front rotors unless they are warped or glazed. If they are not warped or glazed and they have the minimum thickness remaining, just scuff with a Scotch-Brite pad.

The "895521" is an operation code, to Remove and Replace ("R&R") the Idle Air Control.

I don't remember what"2272 CTEC" means, I think it is a labor combination code used when a related item is worked on while the major item is being worked on.

The next 3 lines are a list of parts and materials used, including an idle speed valve assembly, gasket, and carburetor cleaner.

The next line "Found ISC Valv P/A ISC Valve" is poor repair order documentation, probably referring to the cause of the hard starting.

This is all related to how much air is allowed to mix with fuel and nothing to do with the spark plugs and wires.

The life of spark plugs and wires depends on the type. They will last anywhere from 30,000 to 90,000 miles, with 60,000 being common. If they have never been changed, I recommend doing so.

The original coolant is good for 3 years; subsequent coolant changes should be every 2 years. If the coolant appears to be in good condition when it is changed then a flush is not necessary. If it is all corroded then a flush is in order.

Flushing coolant is not technically difficult to do. The catch is that most people do not have a means of capturing and filtering the large volumes of coolant so they just let it run down the driveway and into the storm sewer. This is probably illegal where you live. A properly equipped service facility has a machine that can flush and recycle the coolant used to flush.

I recommend that you stick to the genuine Toyota red coolant.

If you need a transmission every 30k, you have a lemon or you need to learn how to drive. Automatic transmission fluid can be a drain and refill if you are doing it every 30 k miles.

How often what? You should change brake fluid every 2 or 3 years.

Fuel filter is lifetime unless there is a problem like a batch of bad gas.

Change differential fluid at the same time as automatic transmission fluid.

See my answer to #2 above.

Reply to
Ray O

I agree with all of Ray's suggestions, but...If you do some of this yourself, don't skimp on the aftermarket spark plugs, they just don't work as good as the factory original double prong plugs. I would bet you'll see a big improvement with new factory plugs !!

J

snipped-for-privacy@gmail.com wrote:

Reply to
Joey

MotorsForum website is not affiliated with any of the manufacturers or service providers discussed here. All logos and trade names are the property of their respective owners.