I don't want to screw up anything. Does anyone know how to remove the hatchback Struts?? According to some generic instructions on the replacement struts, it says to remove from the end with the ball on it. There is supposed to be some type of clips you pry off. I don't see any clips just a ball on a stud. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
Thx Ken
I thought that the damper stays were bolted to the hatch and body. It might be easier to take apart if you removed the damper assembly from the body and hatch first. I've used aftermarket struts before and they worked OK. IIRC, the ball is held in the socket with a C-clip that wasn't obvious until I removed the whole thing from the car. With the assembly removed, there will be some play in the ball and socket and you may be able to see what is holding the ball in the socket. Obviously, you will need a helper or rig a broom stick or something to support the hatch before you remove the damper.
I haven't looked at mine. The rears are ok, the hood needs new ones.
The replcaement struts usually hace a flat clip that pulls up and releases the strut. I know my 'hachiroku', you have to unbolt them from the hatch/body to get them out, but the ones on the Supra are still working...most of the time.
I was too busy trying to get the tank out (I almost succeeded, and then noticed the jack was losing oil. I use jack stands, but if the jack loses all the oil the car is stuck in the air). I couldn't get the fitting off the fuel line; then I noticed the oil and heard a groan. I *think* the rockers are solid...but I ain't betting my life!
I'll wait and see if a friend lets me use his lift.
My dad ran into the same problem with his jack, which was around 20 years old when it started leaking. Mine is around 20 years old and I noticed that it starts to come down when it is raised all the way in cold weather. We fixed my dad's jack with new O-rings and it was like new. I haven't gotten around to that on my jack yet, maybe when the weather gets a little warmer.
How about using a set of ramps to change out the tank?
I still don't see the clip. I think I might have to bring to a shop to replace. I can't be as hard as all this. I just want to get them off. I don't see a way to do this.
Thx Ken
Hey, Papa:
Give me a chance to look at my '88 and I'll be better to advise you tomorrow. It really can't be that hard, and a shop will charge you a lot for a simple operation. Unless you have a mechanic who charges $5 for a $5 job! (Um, if you do, let me know! Dealer wanted $350 to change my fuel tank on my '88 Supra!)
Oh, yaeh. Shoot. When I got home from work it was raining (pouring!) I took the car out of the garage Friday, and keep it under a cover outside, so I'll have to wait for tomorrow afternoon to have a look.
LOL! The garage I keep the Supra in *IS* in the basement, so I just shift the stuff from the garage over 5 feet!
To add insult to injury, the last time my dad came over, he told me that I need to clean all the junk out of the garage because it's ridiculous to park the Lexus and Sequoia out in the driveway and keep junk in the garage. He did quit scolding me when I told him that all that junk came from his house!
Wow...
I have NO idea!
This is the weirdest hatch strut setup I have ever seen!
This is NOT much help!
It looks like there is a place to grab the damper near the 'top' (when the hacth is open); it looks like you grip it with pliers and twist the other end free, but the instructions say "Do not twist"...????
And I have no idea how to remove the other end, unless you have to pull the inner panels out (UGH!!!) and unbolt it!
This does NOT look like fun!
OK, I think I deciphered it:
2.Remove Damper Stay lower end from body (Must be bolted in from inside).
You do the exact same in REVERSE to install the new one.
It does NOT look like you can use a Generic strut with this, it will have to have the piece that bolts in at the bottom attached.
IU am gueassing you hold
Oh, God don't do that you'll break it! Like I said, unbolt the bottom from the car. Hold the BALL end that is attached to the hatch and spin the piston housing.
It also recommends drilling a hole in the casing, near the ball end to relieve the pressure, but I don't think this is neccassary.
If you decide to drill the casing, make absolutely positively sure you are wearing safety goggles!!!!!
I didn't particularly like the idea of drilling the casing myself.
I don't see why it would need to be drilled...
I don't see any benefit to drilling the casing either, but just in case the OP tried, it's better to be safe than blind!
That relieves the dampers gas pressure (safety thing) for disposal.
Here's a handy tip for your Supra's hood to fix the same problem. (even better than new struts!)
** Get a piece of 1" PVC pipe 6" long and slide it over one of the hood support dampers.I replaced one once. It's not a quick job. You have to remove a lot of the panels inside to gain access to the nuts, if you've got new Toyota struts this should be obvious. I don't have the manuals any more but they really help by explaining how to remove the panels without damage. You will find a lot of help at
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