1989 Toyota Pickup Idle Problem

I rebuilt my toyota's 22re motor. When I start the truck it idles perfectly fine. As the truck warms up the idle starts to die. Once the temperature reaches its peak of 180 or 185 the truck wants to stall. The thermostat will kick in and the temperature goes down and the idle goes back up. When I start the truck it is idling at about 1200 rpm which I know is adjustable. When it gets hot it either stalls or it will idle at 400-500 rpm. When it cools down it then idles at around

800 rpm. When I put the truck back together I had to check all of my vacuum lines and put them back in the right spot with the diagram on the hood. The piece in the diagram that has Gas F written to the left of it shows 2 vacuum lines coming out. The one that is on my truck has 3 vacuum line ports. I dont know where the other one goes and I cant find any other place it could go. Could this be the problem? If so does anyone know where that line is supposed to go? Thank You
Reply to
grh7526
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On Dec 20, 10:51 am, snipped-for-privacy@comcast.net wrote: I had put a plug on the empty vacuum port and also the truck is not over heating.

Reply to
grh7526

Try disconnecting and plugging the vacuum lines to the EGR valve and see if the problem clears up. If so, you may have the vacuum lines to the EGR valve mis-routed or have a problem with the EGR vacuum controls.

Reply to
Ray O

When you say try disconnecting and plugging the vacuum lines to the EGR valve what do you mean? Disconnect and reconnect the vacuum lines on the EGR? If you mean disconnecting certain vacuum lines and plugging them into the EGR for direct connection please specify which ones. Thanks

Reply to
grh7526

If the EGR valve opens and starts recirculating exhaust gas while the engine is idling, the engine will start to stall, so the purpose of disconnecting the vacuum lines from the EGR is to see if it is causing the rough idling.

To temporarily disable the EGR valve, disconnect the vacuum hose(s) from the modulator on the EGR (the modulator is the flying saucer shaped thing on top of the EGR) and stick a golf tee or screw into the hose that you disconnected so that you do not have a vacuum leak. If the stalling problem clears up, then something is making the EGR valve open at idle, either the vacuum hoses to the EGR valve are incorrectly routed, or there is a problem with the vacuum switching valves in the EGR vacuum control circuit.

If the problem does not clear up when you disconnect the EGR valve, it is possible that the EGR valve is stuck open or there is another problem.

Also, the extra vacuum line that is not connected should be blocked so that you do not have a vacuum leak.

Other possible causes are vacuum leaks, problem with the air flow meter, or problem with the idle control circuit.

Reply to
Ray O

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