1990 Camry, 4 cyl. 2.0: One Mechanic says Fuel Pump, two others say I don't think so...?

I am gathering that you will not be pulling wrenches yourself on this so I will just point out possible diagnosis and options for you. If in fact it is the fuel pump, that is probably the priciest fix labor wise. The fuel tank must be removed on that vehicle and the labor costs will be high. If other than the pump, those components that make up the rest of the system can be accessed from the top by the engine which will be easier to work on. The major mechanical components of the system consist of a fuel pump, fuel regulator, fuel pulsation dampener, and a cold start valve (basically works like a choke on a carburetor). Whomever you take it to for service needs to do a fuel pressure check first, and go from there, excluding computer set codes. What you are describing in your post is a typical cold hard or no start symptom which could be the cold start valve I mentioned. Diagnosing this on the NG is difficult and I am only guessing without testing. I would strongly suggest to take it to like you mentioned a shop that specializes in Toyota or the Toyota dealer. Ask around for references. The dealer guarantees their work, uses OEM (Toyota) parts, not after market, and is experienced. Like I said, check around, and don't be afraid to ask questions. Good luck!

Kat wrote in news:1190832354.365968.168330 @d55g2000hsg.googlegroups.com:

Anybody checked the cold-start injector?

Tegger wrote in news:Xns99B7AFC134558tegger@

...and its time switch.

"Ph@Boy" wrote in news:_sCdnVeGDcV- VmfbnZ2dnUVZ snipped-for-privacy@trueband.net:

"Cold start valve"?

Why can't I find this item in any of my factory documentation?

Cold start injector. It is super easy to change. Takes about 15 minutes.

They can test it to confirm it is it, but our 88 4 cyl had the exact same issue and the cold start injector solved it.

What did the first shop measure for pressure and fuel volume? If they didn't measure them, they're hacks or frauds.

ok so someone gave me a trick to try..it didin't work, but I think my repsonse to them will offer you some more insight on the issue.

So yesterday afternoon, I went to the parking lot. I turned it on w/o starting. Then off...then on....then off...turned the key. She started and then nothing. Waited a 30 seconds, started her up and she started and stayed on. I then had to wait a good 5 to 10 mins for her to heat up and reach the half way point on the temp gage on the dash. I have noticed that if she is even slightly below the half way point, she will have some driving issues. I drove her to a gas station, filled her up, and added a quart of oil. Started her up and she drove just fine. Went to my other job where she sat for 5 hours, did the on/ off thing, started her up and she did the same thing as before. When she started doing this it was a week after I got the new muffler and exhaust, and the temp here in Arkansas was 107. she would only do it in the mornings too. But now that it's getting cooler she seems to be doing it more. I'm seriously at my wits end. I have had her computer scanned TWICE and they get no codes. We though it might be a clogged EGR valve, but that seemed to have cheked out. It's like once she is warmed up, she drives fine, it's the first 15 mins or so after starting her up after sitting for a while that are the issue. And now I have on mechanic who is telling me that its the fuel pump going bad and two others telling me either the pump works or it doesn't. She also vibrates ALOT when I'm stopped at a stoplight or stop sign. And normally if she decides to die while driving, it's when I'm leaving that dead stop and going into gear that she dies. And the sound it makes, like it's choking for air. Though I have noticed that when I start her up and keep her up in the morning and am waiting for her to warm up, if I press the gas pedal I can hear a noise that is similar to someone squirting liquid out of a squirt bottle. Or sometimes like someone is pouring a liquid into a glass.

No I will not be doing any of the work on it...taking it to someone who knows the Make. As for the first place I took it too...I'm going to be filing a report with the BBB and looking into getting a refund back on the diagnostic and labor I paid.

It is pretty easy to check fuel pump pressure when it works both right and wrong. Also could be the fuel filter.

I don't know about you but when I had similar symptoms, it was a real bitch to figure out.

Is your air filter nice and clean? What about your MAF (Mass Air Flow) sensor? Is it nice and clean? It's supposed to self clean but this isn't always the case. You should maybe make sure it's clean. These two things can be checked/done with almost no experience required and a simple Phillips screw driver. You might just need a Haynes to locate them.

Also, are your injectors nice and clean? My issue was caused by a cracked/dirty injector. Replaced that and not a problem since. You might also make sure you have no vacuum leaks.

Is the IAC (Idle AIr Control) valve in good working order?

If you end up replacing that fuel pump I would find out exactly who pays what if it does not cure the problem. What I mean is that the mechanic that tells you it's a fuel pump should have no problem eating that bill if your car still has the problem with a new fuel pump right!

Just a thought but what does the car do if you just rev up the engine and take off like a bat out of hell when she starts?

When it fails to start does the starter sound like it is turning the engine over faster (RPM) than normal?

GL Dan

Check the cold start injector timer and cold start injector.