2000 Avalon radiator, broken top hose sleeve

I'd suggest replacing the radiator. It might be possible to replace just the tank, but given that the radiator is 10 years old, I think buying a new one is the better choice. Rock Auto has one listed for less than $1o0. See the following for illustrations of what Rock Auto is selling:

Price range for these aftermarket units is $85 to $161. You need to make sure you get the right one. Is your radiator marked either 0A170 or 0A180? It seem there are two core thicknesses (5/8" and 1"). I'd guess the 1" is what most US Avalons got, but it is something you need to check. The genuine Toyota radiator will be more (potentially a lot more), but given that this is a ten year old car, I'd go with the cheaper aftermarket part. I feel confident that the correct aftermarket replacement will perform as well as your current 10 year old part.

Ed

Thanks for quick response. I expect you're right- just hoping to hear a different answer. Car has 130,000 miles, but has been well maintained and I expect to keep driving it for years. I have seen these cheap radiators online, wondered how well they would last.

You need a new radiator. Sorry.

NAPA sells the Spectra Radiators (the cheaper ones offered by Rock Auto). Generally I think NAPA handles decent parts, so I am guessing the Spectra Radiators are OK. I don't think you are going to beat the Rock Auto price. A local radiator shop might have the ability to repalce the tank with the broken fitting, but I doubt they can do it for the price of the Spectra Radiator.

There are "do it yourself" instructions and kits for repairing plastic radiator tanks. Here is one web sites illustrating a repiar of a hose connector:

Ed

I'm not a fan of plastic radiator tank repairs either. As Ed says, maybe it'll work and maybe it won't. If it doesn't work, you'll be 50 miles from home in the middle of the night during a snow storm, where the passersby that you are talking to out the driverside window has a buddy that's stealing the tires.

In addition to Rock Auto, I just discovered

@news.eternal-september.org...

Thanks for all the replies. I think I've concluded that you're right. Grrrrr. Thinking about adhesives with the temp/ pressures involved does indeed sound like a repair that will save a few bucks for a while and end up costing an engine. Hope I haven't done damage already- it ran hot twice(initially and after I reattached hose and added coolant) tho not quite into red zone. Only for a minute or two. Of course, parts of engine may not have been receiving coolant. And it's an aluminum block.

One further question- does replacing rad require draining ac system? I don't have a manual, but used to do these on older cars where only transmission lines were involved.

Thanks for all the replies. I think I've concluded that you're right. Grrrrr. Thinking about adhesives with the temp/ pressures involved does indeed sound like a repair that will save a few bucks for a while and end up costing an engine. Hope I haven't done damage already- it ran hot twice(initially and after I reattached hose and added coolant) tho not quite into red zone. Only for a minute or two. Of course, parts of engine may not have been receiving coolant. And it's an aluminum block.

One thing to consider is that even if epoxy holds up, you're sticking it to plastic that is actively in the process of crumbling apart.

I've been in the market for a radiator lately, and have been to a couple of Websites -- radiatorbarn.com, car-stuff.com, and rockauto.com -- and found that RockAuto has the best price.

One further question- does replacing rad require draining ac system? I don't have a manual, but used to do these on older cars where only transmission lines were involved.