I have a 5x8 utility trailer with 12" tires. Obviously the tires are smaller than what's on the Highlander.
I've noticed wen driving on rougher paved roads that there seems to be a jerking or pulling of the trailer.
1) The trailer may ride better if the trailer tire size matches that of the Highlander, but it will make little, if any difference, to the ride of the Highlander. The jerking and pulling of the trailer is more due to the short distance between the trailer axle and trailer hitch, the stiff springs on the trailer, and the lack of shock absorbers on the trailer. 2) If you are asking about fuel economy, the answer is no.
Never thought about distance between trailer axle and hitch. This trailer does have a shorter tongue. Thanks for the tip.
You're welcome!
No. The ride of the trailer is improved with larger tires from the extra cushion action of the larger tires with lower air pressure to support the load. But matching the tire size to the tow vehicle is never a goal, the tires need to match the expected trailer load.
The 4.80X12 or 5.70X12 tires you have now are running 50 to 60 PSI to hold up the load. If you have room for larger fenders you could go up to a 13" or 14' ST-rated trailer tire, get the tire pressure down and the cushion action up.
Do Not use regular P passenger or LT Light Truck tires - trailers need a stiffer tire to last. And they put in a lot more anti-oxidant ingredients in the rubber of trailer tires so they last longer - most trailer tires still rot out before they wear out, but it's even worse with car tires.
(You CAN use LT tires in a pinch, but you have to derate the weight capacity by 25%. Much better to carry a matching ST-rated mounted spare tire and rim with you, so you're back on the road in minutes.)
And you /can/ add shock absorbers to a trailer to handle wallowing issues, but it is not done regularly so you'll be in uncharted waters finding the proper shocks and bracketry. But most trailer ride issues are from improper loading - you want between 10% to 20% total weight on the tongue
Have the tongue weight light or negative and the trailer will dance the Watusi down the road when you get up to freeway speeds - for your little trailer, just try lifting the tongue by hand to estimate the weight, it should take some grunt to pick up. Or a bathroom scale.
I've seen wrecks where a heavy travel or utility trailer that had all the weight behind the axle flings the tow vehicle around so hard it goes into the ditch. And I've seen other drivers that managed to save the wreck, but got a VERY important lesson about trailer loading.
No, mileage is totally related to the amount of mass you have to get moving and stopped, wind resistance and rolling resistance.
Mass is solved by not bringing the Anvil Collection everywhere.
They do make Radial-Ply ST trailer tires in the 13" and larger sizes which will help on rolling resistance, all of the 8" and 12" trailer tires I've seen are the old Bias-Ply design.
And you can help by stacking your load evenly on the trailer and as low as possible, and covering it with a tarp to make a smooth surface to reduce turbulence and wind resistance.
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Here is another thought. I for a long time pulled a pop-up camper that when I bought it wandered a bit behind the Sienna. It needed tires and I upgraded using the same size tire, but went up maybe 3-4 load ranges (it was a while ago now) to the max that I could get [there was not much difference in price for that set]. The trailer trailed much better after that switch and I would do the same thing again. I see this as more robust tire = better trailing performance. Tomes
Great ideas! Thanks. I'm considering stepping up to the 13" radials for trailer. I have been packing the trailer weight forward and low. I have gotten the best mileage with the vehicle parked in the driveway and the engine off.
I'm not too knowledgeable about tires. Didn't know that the same size tires could be rated for different towing capacity. Thanks for the tip.
More and/or heavier steel and fabric reinforcement plies, so the tire can take higher pressure and carry more load.
But thicker sidewalls and higher pressures also make them ride rougher - you can put heavier Light Truck tires on a car or SUV to bump up the load capacity, tread life and the damage resistance of the tires, but you /will/ feel the difference. Before it wallowed as the soft car tires flexed, now you feel every bump. But the cornering will suffer, car tires have 'stickier' tread compounds for better road grip but shorter life.
For SUV's and minivans they came up with "Extra Load" P-rated tires
- higher load ratings but built like a passenger car tire.
In the olden days when they used Cotton Canvas as the reinforcement belt material, they literally rated the tires by how many plies (layers) of reinforcement there were - 2-ply for a bicycle, 2 or 4-ply for most cars, trucks could be 8, 10, 12, 16...
But the old rating systems were slow to die. Now they mark them "Load Range E (8 Ply Rating)" even though it might only have one or two full-body plies and one steel tread belt ply.
This is important to watch for heavy trucks and vans. You can put Load Range C or D tires on the front axle that is much lighter, but if they ever get rotated to the back axle that requires an "E" tire they would be overloaded and could blow out. This would be bad...
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