4runner rear window

Yes, I figured that one out. Just jump the connector to the rear door key lock. But I'm still stuck, literally and figuratively.

Assuming you are talking about one of the side rear doors and not the rear tailgate, try disconnecting the motor and see if the regulator goes up and down by hand.

Its the tailgate window

The same advice goes for the tailgate window, plus check the courtesy light switch to make sure it is operating properly.

do you mean disconnect the wiring or removing the unit? I'm not sure how to do that without some detail. How do you make it go "manually", just turn the gears?

Just disconnecting the wiring is not enough. You have to remove the motor so it does not engage the regulator. With the motor removed, you should be able to push the window up and down by pushing on the bottom of the glass. If it binds, then apply some lithium grease where the regulator pivots or slides. If it moves up and down pretty easily, then the motor may be binding. You can make up jumper wires and try to apply 12 volts to the motor connection to see if it moves. If it does not, then the motor is bad. If you don't want to spring for a replacement motor, push the window all the way up by hand and then re-install the motor to keep the window secure, and leave the motor unplugged.

the motor tests out OK. The regulator and/or window rollers/tracks are definitely binding. I hope its the latter because the pivot points of the regulator are on the rear, virtually innaccessible side. I sprayed a bunch of penetrating oil on the rollers and window track and now it moves maybe 1/2inch. Maybe over the course of a few days I can get those tracks down to where I can see them and clean them out.

Now you're on the right track (no pun intended)!

OK, I finally got the bugger down, and up, and down. It was really stuck, and it was the tracks. they look saveable though, like I said its only been in rust country for 2 winters. Parts of them arent even rusted yet. I've got it slathered in silicon grease though (the only thing I had handy, it says good for auto windows), do you think I should replace it with lithium? Will grease prevent the existing rust from growing and if not how can I?

Silicone grease is the preferred stuff if used very sparingly, the old advertising term "A little dab'll do ya!" is appropriate for silicone lubricants and for anti-seize compounds.

The only big problem with spray silicone lube or silicone grease is if you ever need to paint the car - it gets tracked everywhere.

You have to scrub virtually every molecule of silicone off the old paint in the area to be painted, which is not easy. Or you get big fish-eyes in the paint and with enough residue the paint flat out won't stick to the fender or hood.

Warn the body shop first that you used silicone spray or grease, and where, so they can do an extra special job of cleaning. They get REALLY mad if they get the car all prepped and paint the first coat and THEN the fish-eyes pop through, because they have to strip the new finish and start over.

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Silicone grease should be OK. I recommended lithium grease because people are more likely to have lithium grease than silicone grease.

Almost any grease that sticks to the surface without running off in high temps should help slow down rust formation. If the sticking comes back, try removing the rusted part, sanding it, re-painting it with something like Rust-Oleum, and then re-coating with grease.

refresh my memory-how do you get the window track out? I know I've done it on my 86 4runner several times, but dont recall how. I should probably take the whole thing out so I can treat the tracks properly

I'd have to look at the rear door to be sure, but my guess is that you have to remove the glass from the regulator, remove the regulator, then remove a couple of bolts that hold the track in place, lower the track partway into the door, and then pull the track out.