'86 Celica GT - advice?

The clutch slave is pretty easy to replace. On my '85, it was two bolts and one fitting.

It's prabaly easier on yours (perspectively, anyway) since it's a front-drive model. Should be right at the front of the transmission, easily visible when you open the hood.

Bleeding is the hardest part, but since there's two of you, this won't be bad, either.

As far as the stalling, it might just be bad gas or a gummed-up filter...

The 1986 Celica was the first of the front wheel drive Celicas. For a front wheel drive car, it was fun to drive although it did not do well in the snow.

Possible sources of clutch fluid leaks are the slave or the clutch master cylinder. The slave is easier to change.

for the stalling, it is possible that the fuel has turned to varnish and gummed the injectors. Check the air filter for critter nests.

I would check for any air leaks as if the car has an airflow meter an air leak will make stall. I would also check the computer for any fault codes. to do that you short the e1 and t terminals of the diagnostic connector which is located on the transmission side strut tower, then turn the ignition on but dont start the car. if the engine light flashes any pattern other then a constent on-off there is a sensor problem which could be causeing the stall. As well as changeing the the battery and fluids I would get the altanator checked as they usually go around every 3 to 4 years from heat stress.

The clutch slave is easy to replace, 2x12mm bolts hold it on and 1 fluid line. but bleeding will be hard unless you have a helper. I would also get the flex lines looked at as they could be leaking too.

The only other things I would check on the car are the timing belt and when it was last replaced because if it snaps you can kiss the motor goodbye as the valves and pistons WILL meet, which will also damage the head. Also dont ever let it "ping", if you do the car will damage the head and you will need to replace it.

If you can put up with these things and the wet weather traction problem these cars have it will be great as a daily driver, plus you will also be able to outrun 70% of the cars on the road.

I thought the '86 Celica had a 2.0 non-interference SOHC engine? Meaning if the timing belt went, it would just come to a stop and it will be a PITA but just change the belt. The 2SE engine if I remember correctly?

How short a distance?

If it stalls as soon as the clutch is released check the park brake - after sitting for a year it may be stuck on.

It depends on where you are in the world the 1986 series cars came with the the 2S, 3S and 4A motors. the 3S-GE motors were usually found in the US, Australia, England as well as Japan. In parts of Eurpoe they had with 4A-GE motors. The 3S-GE out of Japan is the pick they had the highest power but are screamers, they sit on the highway in 5th gear between 3500 and 4000 RPM but can out run most bigger cars.

What speed is that then? Mine (-GTE) sits at 100mph at 4000rpm? Gearing must be a fair bit different on the non-turbo?

I dont know much about the pre-89 celicas i admit.

Ah, gotcha. I am in the Northeast US. I believe the ST and GT shared the same engine, and it was upgraded once you went to the GT-S.

I assume that you have an GT4 (all-trac). The speed is a 110kmh indicated which is around 70mph I think. The car has a

1:1 4th and a 1:0.8 5th with a 1:4.4 final drive. The GT4 I belive has a 1:0.97 4th and a 1:0.73 5th and either a 1:4.2 or a 1:3.9 final drive.

Also the turbo motor has a peak torque value closer to 3500rpm than the

5000rpm of the non-turbo so it will be geared to take account of that.

OK!

Thanks for all the pointers, people. I'm going to go out to the car next weekend and do the TLC basics I mentioned. I figure if worst comes to worst, I'll give it away or sell it at school once the wife has ground an eighth-inch or so off the clutch ;)

The owner said that he had the timing belt break twice - within 200 miles of the 40,000 mile replacement interval :) It's a 2SE engine, and so it survives this.

The flex line is relatively cheap, I see it online for $30 or less. I can get the slave cylinder and flex for about $45 shipped.

Thought it was the 2SE engine! Years ago I bought a used '06 ST 5-spd and I THOUGHT the GT and ST had many similarities including the engine. But 40k replacement schedule for the timing belt? Are you sure it's not closer to

60k? I don't remember what the schedule of it was but thought it was more...

I don't have the manual to hand. The owner says it was scheduled at

40K, and it broke once at 40K +

There's a PDF file on this Gates site @:

shows the '86 Celica 2.0 is 60k miles. I have never heard of needing to replace one sooner thank 60k! I wonder who put the other ones on for the previous owner?

-Dave

Well, I've got two answers to that, either of which is plausible... The first page of that PDF says that if the auto manufacturer makes no recommendation, Gates advises 60K miles. Hence I'd guess most of the cars there where it says "60K" it really means "we don't know fersure, and our default answer is 60K".

Second, the OEM maint schedule for this car was written 20 years ago. I'd easily believe a modern belt might have 50% more good miles in it than a 20-year-old belt made of hand-stitched dinosaur leather and trilobite shells :)

True! Still don't recall seeing 40k in my old Celica manual. I figure that would stick in my mind to this day. Also don't know which storage box the old Celica Chilton's manual is at. Be nice if someone had an old manual to check to see what it says. I don't know - dinosaur bones lasted this long, maybe the dinosaur leather had a long shelf life too ;-)

I have the genuine toyota Engine and Body manuals for 86 celica's and it indercates that the belt should be changed every 100k Kms which is around

60k miles or 4 years whichever comes first. It could be that the previous belts died of old age. I would suggest that the car should be on it's 5th belt by now. My gets changed every 100k and I use gates belts but they show signs of cracking on the drive side of the belt every time. I also think the belt tension should be checked regulary. If they get too loose they wear quicker and it can be done without taking the timing cover off.

I wonder if the non-turbo gearing of the same generation will fit onto my shafts while i have the box out...... (manic grin, i dont need a high top end....)

You've got the manual - great! The 60k sounds more like it. Wonder why it has been going @40k?

Toyota transaxles are reasonably similar. the 4wd setcion is built into the frount diff but the drive gear and output shaft from the 2wd version should fit as long as you get them from the same series ie c series s series etc. the problem may be the strenth of the componets. They can handle the power in 2wd mode as the front wheels spin easier but with the 4wd traction you might damage them.

Your best bet would be to get another box and try it on that so you don't wreck the current one.