'89 Corolla strange starting problem (?ignition ?starter)

Hi, I have a carbureted '89 Corolla 4A-F with 138k miles. The car's in great condition, runs great, and is meticulously maintained.

During this winter, maybe 20% of the time on some cold days (below

40F), when I turn the key to start the car, nothing happens (e.g,. as if the battery were dead). Sometimes I hear the beginning of a crank and then nothing happens. The next time I turn the key, the car always starts strong and starts immediately. Humidity has no effect. This never happens if the engine is warm.

The battery is strong-- the car's lights are always bright-- I've tested the voltage multiple times and it's always good-- I replaced the battery with a new one last month anyways. No difference, as I expected. The battery connections also look good.

Spark plugs are 20k miles old; distributor cap/spark plug wires were replaced 40k miles ago (OEM parts); starter is original.

I guess that something in the ignition system needs to be replaced, but how do I diagnose the problem so that I know what to replace?

Thanks, John

Reply to
jyang1
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I will be watching this thread with interest. My '78 has the same symptoms. I replaced the starter, battery and both neg and pos cables. I cleaned out the neutral safety switch on the tranny. I suspect the ignition switch as well, but will watch for advice from posters. John, next time it does this, try boosting it and post results. For some reason mine fires up, but it could be that I get the switch just right, or the moons are aligned right or some other wierd reason. I do hear the selenoid click on mine, but it doesn't turn over.

Gordo

Reply to
Gordo

Next time this happens have someone turn the key while you whack the starter with a hammer. It seems like the starter contacts are worn.

Reply to
tomcas

Check for worn starter contacts. If you shop around, you may be able to find a kit.

Reply to
Ray O

Would the extra juice from an extra battery overcome bad contacts? A local shop was supposed to replace the contacts, but I am second guessing the work now. My click-click-click from the starter does sound like bad contacts, doesn't it?

Reply to
Gordo

Yes, extra juice from a jump can overcome marginal contacts. Other things can cause the clicking noise so the contacts should be checked before just going ahead and changing them out.

Reply to
Ray O

Reply to
tomcas

Hey Gordo, I have a portable jump starter, but the car always starts immediately on 2nd turn of the key, and the battery's voltage is good, so I suspect it's not a voltage issue. If it were to not start on the 2nd try, then I'd boost it, though suspect it wouldn't help, since the lights/etc are bright and the voltage is good.

--John

cleaned out

Reply to
jyang1

Strange, eh? Mine won't start on the second try. Sometimes has to sit for a bit, then it runs fine for another month, when it decides to not start again. This is almost leading into a temperamental wife/husband story, but that is best left alone ;)

Does your starter click? Mine does, so I think the switch is OK, unless there is a second contact in the switch that is bad.

You could always move south?

Reply to
Gordo

If nothing happens (no crank) I can't imagine it would be the ignition system. This sounds like a failing (original) starter to me.

Reply to
kgold

I agree with those that suggest the solenoid contacts. It is basically a floating washer that shorts two contacts each 180 degrees apart. The washer will tilt to a limit to account for wear since the positive side erodes from ion movement. When the limit is approaching you get intermittant starts and each time the solenoid is operated the washer rotates to get relatively fresh contact points and wear the washer evenly. When the tilt gets too much you have to do surgery. I have had this happen on both my Hondas and Toyotas since I run them into the 300 Kmiles. I was able to replace the soft copper contact with a home made brass one that will outlast a replacement if you could find it. The alternative is a new starter. The last time I checked they were about $46 at Auto Zone with a lifetime warranty. It was just quicker for me to make the contact than to drive to the store. Also remember to check all the connections and make sure they are tight, both positive and grounds. Clean battery terminals. For those less electrically knowledgable it is the current that starts the car not the voltage. When you boost a car you are adding to the current not the voltage. Voltage can travel through the weakest of contacts but you have to have a lot of contact area to conduct the maximum current. Larger wire means you can handle greater current. Hope this helps. Russ

On 23 Mar 2005 16:43:27 -0800, snipped-for-privacy@caregroup.harvard.edu wrote:

Reply to
radarguy1

What things do?

Reply to
Gary L. Burnore

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