91' Cressida 'smokin (sometimes)

How old is your oil cap? Is it cracked?

Next, are the screws that hold the valve cover on loose?

Yes, you could still need a new head gasket if you've never replaced it.

BTW, you can get a used motor with an "Under 45K guarantee" for far less than the cost of a complete rebuild.

Not really.

It's very difficult to get the entire cooling system full on your Cressida. Since the heater core is higher up than most, you'll find air gaps are difficult to overcome without a forcefeed through the heater hose.

You may be in need of a new water pump.

Also, I am assuming since it is a '91, it has the 7M-GE engine. From at leats 86-89 or 90 these were notorious for blowing head gaskets, and the symptoms you are describing are awful close to those of a head gasket in the early stages of it's way out.

This is the same engine as used in the Supra, if it is worht your while to tear it down, HKS makes a metal head gasket for this car. It's not cheap, but you'll probably never have to replace it again. Depepnds, really, on how much longer you plan on keeping the car. If it's a few more years, then I'd spring the extra for the good HG!

Mid 89 was when the change was made.

If this is the engine I remember, each cam has a separate tower, or rectangular box, that extends above the hear and under the valve covers, and there is a valley between the 2 towers, much like a V-8 or V-6 engine. The cam tower gaskets sometimes leak and oil pools in the valley. Sprited driving can make the oil drip on the exhaust, causing smsoke and burning oil smell. If this is the case, the condition is more of a nuisance than a real problem, although you have to keep an eye on the oil level.

Leaking head gaskets were not that uncommon on this engine. Check the engine oil for a milkshake appearance and the coolant for signs of oil mixed in.

Did the problem with the heat start when you replaced the thermostat? If so, make sure it was installed correctly, with the spring facing down. When you refill the coolant, make sure that the temp on the heater is set to full hot so that the heater valve opens up and coolant circulates through the heater core.

Correct.

Which just sits there.

Not _THAT_ oil. Unless spirited means turning the car upside down after removing the spark plugs, that extra oil just sits in it's own little pool.

Smelling burning oil should _ALWAYS_ be considered a real problem but yes, keeping an eye on the oil level may be all that's required.

Again, up to mid 1989. Those created on or after the midyear of 89 weren't as succeptible.

And again, even then, it'll still be quite difficult to get it full. The top of the heater core is higher than the top of the radiator. By at least two inches. That's a lot of air.

Gary L. Burnore wrote: >

About 7 years I think, although it looks new inside and out.

Yup, all 'em were very loose. I managed to tighten all but the one under the assembly between the air filter and engine (which would have require a bit of disassembly in arctic temp's). Thanks, having screws loose explains a lot. I assume this is where I could lose oil, esp. under hard driving.

The coolant was low again. Topped it up, which should bring the heater in line. Why and where I'm losing coolant though I'm still not sure.

Where? Can you send me one UPS? Just kidding. The joy of owning this Cressida is in part the much ballyhooed longevity of the 7MGE inline 6, which if at all cared for, should go to the moon and back (about 750,000 km). I'm at 256,000 km now so I've got some driving to do yet.

Then that's most likely your problem. Chance are very good that the rubbers under the screws are hardened now too. You can get them via speical order from Toyota or via ToyotaParts.com

Having one loose isn't really a good thing. You don't have to take the whole thing off, just remove the two nuts on the exhaust side and the one bolt under the throttle rod and you can lift it enough to get a stubby in.

A *** LOT *** of oil.

I can't. But they can. They drop shipped mine to my house for less than I could buy one at a local junk yard. It came complete with an alternator, power steering pump, ECU wiring and air conditioning compressor. I'll find the URL if you're still wanting one.

I've got over 360K on the body, estimating 50K on the engine now that it's been replaced. BTW, if you DO decide to buy an engine, rememeber to replace the timing belt before you drop it in.

When was the radiator cap last replaced? That is the weakest point in the system and should be replaced every few years.

The smell and smoke indicate some oil leaking onto the headpipe, Not being familiar with the engine there is not much I can say.

regards A.G.