94 Corolla Front Brake Caliper issue..........

If you are taking about the slide bolt and you cannot get the bolt out of the slide, it is time for a new caliper.

Correct, The threaded portion that is part of the brake pad "tray" which is supposed to slowy slide in/out (only one is frozen). . My next question is can that disc brake "tray" be removed easy from the wheel hub area (two bolts?) ? Or do I have to disassemble the whole wheel,brake rotor ?

Regards,

Phil

Correct, The threaded portion that is part of the brake pad "tray" which is supposed to slowy slide in/out (only one is frozen). . My next question is can that disc brake "tray" be removed easy from the wheel hub area (two bolts?) ? Or do I have to disassemble the whole wheel,brake rotor ?

Regards,

Phil

*********** The "caliper" is the part of the system that are attached to the brake hoses and contains the pistons that push against the brake pads. The caliper also contains the slides that allows the caliper to move when the pistons are pushed out to allow the part of the caliper opposite from the pistons to squeeze the brake pad against the rotor. Toyota refers to this part as the cylinder. To remove this part, remove the two 14 mm bolts on the inboard side. Do not let the caliper dangle from the brake line as damage to the flexible brake line can occur.

In your Corolla, the bracket that holds the pads is sometimes referred to as the "torque plate." Toyota refers to this part as the caliper. After the caliper above is removed, the torque plate can be removed by removing two bolts on the back side. After the torque plate is removed, the brake rotor just slides off of the hub.

So you can remove the caliper by remove the two "caliper bolts" but that one "anchor pin" is stuck in the "caliper bracket"?? (See pictures below)

Yes, you can buy a "caliper bracket" for $13.88 + shipping from rockauto.com. You need to buy new caliper "anchor pins" for $10.61 per side and rubber parts (look under "caliper bushings" on rockauto.com) for the bracket, $18.16.

Therefore, I'd get a rebuilt caliper *WITH* bracket (some come without, so don't just rely on the pictures). rockauto has them for $44.79. But for a caliper/bracket assembly I'd source from the local parts store, because you get limited lifetime warranty with this and don't have to ship all the weight.

Rebuilt caliper, *specified* with bracket:

Caliper bracket: Caliper anchor pin (long slides) and caliper bolts (short bolts holding the caliper to the bracket):

As shown in the caliper bracket picture. Two bolts through the visible holes (top of picture) hold the bracket to the steering knuckle. Remove these two bolts the bracket lifts right off.

Caliper bracket: http://> next question is can that disc brake "tray" be removed easy from the

OK this is just what I needed. Car has to be back on the road Monday (inspection) so RockAuto (never used but heard good things about them) would not be quick enough. Called local salvage yard and he'll sell me the tray and the caliper piston all for $ 25 on Monday. I will go this route. Thanks to all for the replies and I will post Monday night once done :)

"Ray O" wrote in news:grr6md$sj6$ snipped-for-privacy@news.motzarella.org:

Aren't you confusing different brake systems? The '94 Corolla's calipers do not have any sliding parts at all. The slide pins are in the "torque plate".

Sounds to me like the OP simply has to use a socket to crack the pin loose, then work it out of its bore. This can be really tough if the brakes have been englected for a long time. Then he needs to do a lot of labor to get rid of the rust on the pin and inside the pin's bore, then make sure the boot is sealing properly again. Sil-Glyde is his friend.

OK this is just what I needed. Car has to be back on the road Monday (inspection) so RockAuto (never used but heard good things about them) would not be quick enough. Called local salvage yard and he'll sell me the tray and the caliper piston all for $ 25 on Monday. I will go this route. Thanks to all for the replies and I will post Monday night once done :)

***********

Make that the sleeves move in and out freely. Carefully peel back the rubber boot on the sleeves , remove the sleeves, and coat the outside of the sleeves with either disc brake lube, high temp wheel bearing grease, or anti-seize. Clean up the bolts that pass though the sleeve and coat the bolt shank (but not the threads) with the same stuff. Save the anti-rattle and anti-squeal springs and clips from the old caliper in case the replacement doesn't have them.

Poor description on my part. The "slides" I was referring to were the tubes/sleeves/bores that the pins pass through.

I've never tried Sil-Glyde, but from reading the descriptions, it sounds like it is pretty good stuff.

"Ray O" wrote in news:grs0gn$s1m$ snipped-for-privacy@news.motzarella.org:

Well, in any case, you wouldn't replace a caliper because a slide pin was corroded, you'd just fix the slide pin. I've had to do just that countless times over many years. Pin seizure used to be extremely common on the early-'80's Corollas.

If rubber is involved, anti-seize or other petroleum greases should NEVER be used. Sil-Glyde is harmless to rubber. It is meant for, and is ideal for, brake work involving rubber components.

I was thinking that the caliper would need to be replaced if the OP couldn't get the tubes out of their bores, even with a small deep socket and hammer.

I'm pretty sure that the dust boots on the sleeves are resistant to petroleum grease since I haven't had a problem in over 30 years, and the dust boot is not a critical application, but I'll invest in some Sil-Glyde.

news.motzarella.org:

Yes the "torque plate" / "brake tray" (some refer to) is the part I need. Car has 257,000 and you can say over all it was "neglected" (my co-worker's car that I offered to attend to......Getting the new caliper and torque plate today at the local yard.

"Ray O" wrote in news:gru13i$gre$ snipped-for-privacy@news.motzarella.org:

There are two basic brake designs I've seen on Toyotas:

1) Torque plate bolts to steering knuckle; float pins installed into tq. plate (corrugated rubber boots seal pins); float pins have threaded holes in their ends to receive clamp bolts; caliper bosses slip over ends of float pins (NO RUBBER ON CALIPER); 12mm bolts go thru caliper bosses and clamp bosses to float pins. 2) Torque plate bolts to steering knuckle (NO RUBBER ON TORQUE PLATE); caliper bosses are very deep and contain cylindrical rubber boots; cylindrical rubber boots are open both ends; steel sleeves pass through the cylindrical boots; 12mm bolts (one longer than the other) fasten caliper to torque plate through steel sleeves.

OP has the first design.

I've found that anti-seize tends to rot the rubber. But then I haven't used anti-seize or other petroleum greases in so long that it's possible Toyota's since changed the rubber formulation and I just didn't know that.

ndccpf1 wrote in news: snipped-for-privacy@r33g2000yqn.googlegroups.com:

Buying this part used isn't a great idea. It's very likely the replacement will have the same problem as the original.

You're better to either buy new, or just fix the original, which isn't hard once you work the pin out.