'95 Previa air conditioner recharge

1995 was right around the time when refrigerant was changed from R-12 to 134-A. The 2 types are not compatible so before you go and add 134-A, make sure that your van uses 134-A. There will be a sticker identifying the type of refrigerant under the hood. The ports are also different for R-12 and 134-A.

No offense, but if a pro tells you that the system will not hold a charge, what make you think that it will hold a charge for you? Also, adding refrigerant to a system that you know is leaking is a violation of EPA laws. Adding more refrigerant will not stop a leak. You will be wasting your money and polluting our air.

Thanks Ray for the reply--I'll take a look under the hood and check my system requirements--I "dropped-in" at the Toyota dealership without an appointment at the end of the day and they seemed rather "hurried" with their diagnosis (I was there less than thirty minutes) so I thought it was a shot with the home kit. The kit advertises a stop leak feature--maybe that's just smoke? Thanks for your suggestions--I'll probably have to shell-out for the big repair if I want a cool ride!

I am not a fan of anything with a "stop leak" feature, whether it is AC refrigerant, radiator coolant, oil leaks, etc. because they act like a coagulant in your blood. The leak stopping additive solidifies when exposed to air to stop the leak, just like your blood does when there is a wound.

The problem is, if air gets into the system, the additive can solidify internally in the system, just like blood clots in your arteries.

In automotive AC systems, the expansion valve is like a spray nozzle, and if it is messed up, you can cause bigger problems.

My guess is the shop tried to evacuate your AC system, was unable to, and used a leak detector to find the source, or they added dye to find it visually. When refrigerant leaks out of the system, air can get in, and air contains moisture, which causes all sorts of problems. The receiver-drier has a desiccant bag inside which absorbs moisture, but if exposed to air for too long, the desiccant becomes saturated and needs replacement. The compressor is probably the source of the leak and the received drier is insurance to make sure further problems don't develop.

Thanks Ray--you've convinced me-I'm saving up for my return to the Toyota mechanics for a bonafide repair. You've explained this problem very well and I appreciate the sharing of your knowledge.

You're welcome!

The Previa has proven to be a very reliable vehicle. We had our 93 Previa for 10 trouble-free years.

I know that many people like to save on fuel by using the AC as little as possible. My former co-workers and I do not subscribe to that school of thought. Many of these co-workers were engineers with advanced degrees in automotive design and engineering. They were the ones who designed cars and trucks and their systems or were the ones the dealer technicians contacted when they couldn't fix a problem, so IMO, they were more knowledgeable about car stuff than you average car magazine columnist, car enthusiast, or even dealership technician.

I leave the AC on my vehicles engaged year round in the Chicago area and adjust the temperature so that the cabin is comfortable. The difference in fuel consumption in modern cars is less than 1 MPG, and having the AC in use year-round keeps seals lubed so there is a much lower chance of having to pay for something like a new compressor. The built-in features of a properly functioning modern AC keep it from freezing up in cold weather and you get the benefits of dehumidified air in the cabin. The only AC work we've ever had to do on any of our personal vehicles was an occasional refrigerant recharge.

Good luck!

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Ray, the laws very from state to state, some stated you are allowed to recharge a know leaking system, others you are required to evac it.

I learned something new today! I always assumed that venting refrigerant was regulated by the federal EPA and not individual states.

Weird tho, I assumed the same when I took the test.