Brake Pads

2004 Avalon

I picked up a set of Toyota pads for my Avalon (man those babies are pricey at $53 per pair). Anyhow, any tips on changing them? The rotors look good and neither end is squeeling yet. Thanks. jor

Reply to
jor
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Some pads come with a little packet with anti-squeal compound that looks like a condiment packet. I never use those packets and use Permatex Anti-Squeal spray instead. Even the smallest can will do several dozen brake jobs and the job is a lot neater than using the condiment packets.

First measure the existing pads in the car. If any one is less than 2 mm, replace all of the pads on the axle. Note if any pad is more worn than the other pads. Note the position of the wear indicator springs (probably on the inside of the rotor) so that you put the replacements in the correct position.

Spread the new pads wear side down on newspaper or cardboard and spray the backs with the anti-squeal spray. The spray comes out like spray paint and spray until the backs are evenly colored but don't lay it on too thick or it will take forever to dry.

Remove the 2 bolts that hold the caliper bracket in place and wipe any grease off of the bolt shanks.

Lift the caliper off of the bracket that holds it in place and balance it on top of the rotor/backing plate, making sure not to kink the brake line. Move the sleeves that the caliper bolts pass through in and out to the limits of the rubber boots on the sleeves. If they don't move easily, carefully peel the boot back and remove the sleeves, wipe the outside of the sleeve, coat with the outside of the metal sleeve and caliper bolts with caliper grease, high temp wheel bearing grease, or Anti-Seize compound and put the sleeves back into the caliper.

Compress the caliper piston with a C-clamp or special caliper tool (I do 4~5 brake jobs a year and don't own a caliper tool and just use a C-clamp). While compressing the piston, watch the brake fluid level in the reservoir. If it is going to overflow, use a turkey baster to suck out the excess fluid.

Remove the old pads and carefully peel off the anti-squeal shims off of the old calipers and spray with the anti-squeal compound.

Remove the anti-rattle springs where the square tabs fit into the bracket and use a toothbrush-sized wire brush or wire brush on a Dremel tool to clean the bracket.

You can measure rotor thickness at this point with a micrometer or vernier caliper. If there is a lot of rust on the outer circumference of the rotor, you can remove the caliper bracket to remove the rotor and grind off the corrosion with a die grinder or bring them to a shop for a skim cut - just enough to remove the corrosion. If the shop machines the face of the rotor, you will probably get brake pulsation in less than a year so I just grind the rust on the circumference with a die grinder and put a flat or chamfered edge.

Replace the anti-rattle springs, and put a dab of whatever you used on the caliper slides and bolts where the square tabs fit in the anti-rattle springs.

Fit the anti-squeal shims on the new pads and replace them in the caliper bracket.

Replace the caliper and caliper bolts.

If the brake fluid is more than 4 years old, replace the brake fluid with fresh fluid. Suck out as much as you can out of the reservoir with the turkey baster and top off with fresh fluid. Bleed the old fluid, starting at the far corner until clear, and work your way closer to the reservoir.

Replace the wheel and take for a test drive. Give the brake pedal a few pumps before putting the vehicle in gear.

Once you get the hang of this you should be able to do a brake job in under

45 minutes, less than 30 if you have an impact gun and air ratchet.

Good luck!

Reply to
Ray O

Once you get the hang of this you should be able to do a brake job in under

Thanks, Ray, for a good step-by-step. One question: In past jobs I have done as you suggested (remove fluid and bleed brakes). Somewhere I read that this can be avoided if you simply connect a hose to the bleeder valve (with the other end in brake fluid) and open the valve when you compress the piston. I guess the idea is that no air is allowed into the system. Good idea? jor

Reply to
jor

I've never tried that, and I don't really see the point of doing that because no air should get into the system when you compress the piston. There is no need to open the bleeder valve when compressing the piston - just push it back in, keeping an eye on the piston boot to make sure it is not pinched, and you should not have to bleed the brakes.

That trick may work when gravity bleeding the brakes. I am not that patient so I have someone depress the brake pedal while I crack the bleeder valve open.

Reply to
Ray O

The brake fluid does not overflow on my vehicles because I do my own maintenance and do not add brake fluid between brake jobs, and I suspect that is the case for you as well.

Someone who has never done a brake job may add brake fluid when the fluid level in the reservoir nears the MIN line, thinking that more is better. I've seen this on cars that have been maintained by quick lube places. If someone has added fluid since the last brake job, then the turkey baster becomes necessary.

Oh, and a cheapo dollar store turkey baster works as good as the expensive Pampered Chef baster, while maintaining domestic tranquility ;-)

Reply to
Ray O

Brake job went well. Thanks for the advice. I mentioned I planned on using a caliper tool instead of a c-clamp. That's because I got one last Father's Day. Anyhow, having used c-clamps and wood on previous jobs, I gotta say this little Harbor Freight tool is pretty nifty. Here's a link to a photo. Sorry, it's a little fuzzy. jor [IMG]

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Reply to
jor

Ray's suggestion of using high temperature wheel bearing grease or typical anti-seize on modern brake systems is dangerous.

Only lubricant designed and specified for use on brake systems should be used. Such as the Permatex synthetic gel. It's not correct to suggest anything else on modern brake systems.

Ray, you said you worked at a dealership before, but do you even have an ASE A5 Brake Systems certification? I don't think so.

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Reply to
johngdole

Yes, in fact, opening the bleeder method is also suggested by Toyota if the piston is hard to retract. Never had that problem. Turkey basters are cheap, $99 cents at your local 99-cent store. Just don't use the fancy $25 one from the kitchen ;-)

However, using the baster further lessens the chance of air getting into the system. Just make sure you clean the cap area first.

I highly recommend the PowerBleeder. It makes brake bleeding (every year for me) so much easier. You should do yours no longer than every

2 years using excellent fluids like Castrol GT LMA (Low Moisture Activity) or Valvoline SynPower brake fluids. Takes about 1 qt to flush the whole system.

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Reply to
johngdole

Yeah, Harbor Freight often runs a sale on this kit too, for $19.99 (reg $29.99) if anyone else plans to get one. Don't know how I went all this time without this kit.

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Reply to
johngdole

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I never said I worked at a dealership before; I worked for the automaker. I had all 8 ASE certifications, but have let them lapse. The labels on the can of high temp wheel bearing grease and Permatex Anti-Seize list disc brake anchor pins as applications for use.

Reply to
Ray O

Just make sure you tell people only to use lube approved for brake systems and nothing else, especially if you even worked for an automaker.

Reply to
johngdole

Good point, advice taken.

Reply to
Ray O

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