Brake woes - still here

When you say that you stripped the caliper to the bone, did you completely remove the piston from the caliper housing? If the piston is coming out at an angle, it can jam. When you compressed the piston back into the housing, was the outer rim of the piston evenly seated?

Does the caliper slider move easily by hand, with the dust boot stretching properly at the inner and outer limits of the slider tube? Not only should the pins move inside the slider tube easily, the tube itself should move in and out of the caliper housing. If not, peel the boot back, remove the tube and clean up the outer surface of the tube and the inner surface of the housing.

Can the upper and lower square keys on the pads move in and out of the pad bracket without interference?

Stripped totally, piston seals out etc, all seal location points cleaned and re-assembled with silicone lube (as recommended by a brake guy I spoke to). When re-assembled the piston moved very easily too and fro, dead evenly.

Did all of that as a matter of course, the pins were relatively clean and not damaged and when re-lubed they slid too and fro with ease (firm

1 finger force).

The pads not move without interference, they are clipped in place solidly by a sort of spring loaded clip. They take a bit of a wangle to get them into alignment then they slide too and fro with a little nudge. But the pads are identical in fitment force to the genuine Mr T pads i had last time - always seems a mad fitment method but never failed before. All location slots for the pads are clean and corrosion free, and lined with a stainless clip as standard. All stainless anti-squeel shims are fitted and in place as per diagram in the manual.

There really seems to be no real cause in the caliper. I'm starting to suspect the old hoses. I'm not sure about how old they are but the car is 16 years old and i suspect they have never been changed, though they dont look perished, cracked or faded, just not new. Having posted this on an owners club Ive been told that other people have had the same problem and it was the rubber hose degrading from the inside out and bits blocking flow in one direction. This seems plausible to me and explains why it was seized immediately after bleeding. At =A360 UK for a set of 4 braided stainless Goodridge teflon hoses i might splash out and see if it helps. I'm running out of ideas!

Stripped totally, piston seals out etc, all seal location points cleaned and re-assembled with silicone lube (as recommended by a brake guy I spoke to). When re-assembled the piston moved very easily too and fro, dead evenly.

Did all of that as a matter of course, the pins were relatively clean and not damaged and when re-lubed they slid too and fro with ease (firm

1 finger force).

The pads not move without interference, they are clipped in place solidly by a sort of spring loaded clip. They take a bit of a wangle to get them into alignment then they slide too and fro with a little nudge. But the pads are identical in fitment force to the genuine Mr T pads i had last time - always seems a mad fitment method but never failed before. All location slots for the pads are clean and corrosion free, and lined with a stainless clip as standard. All stainless anti-squeel shims are fitted and in place as per diagram in the manual.

There really seems to be no real cause in the caliper. I'm starting to suspect the old hoses. I'm not sure about how old they are but the car is 16 years old and i suspect they have never been changed, though they dont look perished, cracked or faded, just not new. Having posted this on an owners club Ive been told that other people have had the same problem and it was the rubber hose degrading from the inside out and bits blocking flow in one direction. This seems plausible to me and explains why it was seized immediately after bleeding. At £60 UK for a set of 4 braided stainless Goodridge teflon hoses i might splash out and see if it helps. I'm running out of ideas!

********* From what I can tell, you did everything right on the caliper rebuild - sounds like hoses next!

good luck!

Hoses ordered 5 mins ago, should be with me by the weekend - might get to drive my car one day soon LOL. Lets tot up the work its had this year:

Full set of brakes -caliper rebuilds, pads, discs, now flexis. Full rear end off and underbody ground back and re-painted/undersealed Rear diff carrier/subframe bushes rebuilt/replaced/undercoated. Full fluids change, rear diff included, full system bleed with DOT 5.1 inc clutch New turbo off the next model up, new gearbox sitting on a desk at home waiting to go in. New exhaust manifold, full new stainless exhaust system, turbo back Build the megasquirt ECU and running that now, spark and fuel control. Due to having to set up the Megasquirt it now has a new battery and had the starter stripped and refurbed.

1 grade cooler plugs and boost raised. New front struts. New ARB bushes all round. New droplinks.New outer CVs up front. Good condition used interior replacement (seats etc) New brake and fuel lines to the rear. Full 4 wheel laser alignment.

Crikey - best stop there, my wallet is wimpering, what am i doing with a 16 year old car lol. Good job i love it!

It sounds like the car is not getting older, it's getting better!

You'll have to share photos of the completed car!

I'm trying :) When the bodywork is finished I'll be sure to post a link :) I'm just trying to decide whether to stay with good old toyota super white, go for the rally-herritage livery or go for a more modern metallic full spray. In increasing order of cost respectively, obviously.

Or, you can go with one of those durable industrial coatings like DuPont Imron ;-)

--- snip --- snip ---

like hoses next!

Just crack open the bleeder real quick and if the problems outside the caliper the brakes will release.

GL Dan

the brakes will release.

inadvertently released the brake hose connection first, i assume this might prove it as you say. Only time will tell now, hoses arrive tomorrow with luck. If it doesnt cure it - well, i have a hose upgrade Ive wanted for a while but couldnt justify lol :)

:) I'm doing this on a uni students budget, not a fleet owners budget lol.

Intermediate information can be found at my website:

ITs not entirely up to date but hopefully I'll be putting lots of how-tos there for many of the reconditionings ive done.

Replaced the hoses with Goodridge stainless braided ones, bled through with DOT5.1 fluid (didnt touch the calipers except to open the bleed nipples) and shes better than ever now. No brake drag at lights (used to be able to take foot off brake on slight inclines) and ABS seems more effective and crisp now. Well worth the expense, especially as i can drive again now lol.

Thanks! J

Thanks for the report on your results!