Camry 96 LE V4 Problems

I'm no expert at this, but the first thing I'd do is get to a mechanic and find out what error codes the car has stored. Write them down and post them here.

A: Wrong lamp wattage installed. (The two don't match.) B: Bad body grounding connection to left headlight harness. C: New lamp was installed on right side but old lamp still on left. (The left one will fail soon, so they can both be the same age again.)

The constantly lit Check Engine Light means the computer has set a trouble code, and it is not critical so you can keep driving.

NOTE: If you ever get a Flashing CEL, pull over and stop the engine immediately. If it has oil and coolant and nothing is smoking you can drive immediately to a mechanic and get it checked over. If you know your way around under the hood of a car check all the fluid levels, fan belts are there and tight, and for other obvious signs of trouble. If nothing unusual is seen, get to a mechanic ASAP.

Have someone pull the computer codes, they will give them the general system that has problems - not an exact fix. Computers aren't that good yet - they just help narrow it down faster.

A visual check is in order - If the previous owner "fixed the muffler" by cutting out the catalytic converter and installing a bypass pipe, the second oxygen sensor can tell that the catalyst isn't working (or is totally worn out/poisoned/missing) and trip the CEL.

Brake system warning light on the dashboard, or brake lights on the back of the car? Brake lights on the back of the car would be a mis-adjusted brake light switch on the top end of the brake pedal arm, under the dash. They have an adjusting nut. Brake system warning light, probably low brake fluid level - the reservoir on the Master Cylinder has a float switch attached to the lid to sense low fluid level, and when the car warms up a bit the fluid expands enough to put the light out.

The brake fluid level goes down normally as the brake pads wear down

- and each time you have to add fluid it signals it's time to do the normal maintenance item of crawling underneath (or put the wheels to full lock and stick your head in the fender well with a flashlight) to check the front brake pad lining thickness, and pull the rear wheels and drums to check the lining on the rear shoes.

Not unless it has a "Service Needed Soon" light system that is tripped by the odometer mileage - check in the Owner's Manual. The OM will also state whether it's a 60K Mile or 90K Mile belt service interval - don't push it, change it at the recommended mileage They say 60K because they start snapping at 70 - 80K and rarely get past

If it's an "interference engine" you do the belt change on time, or it can be a $3,000 plus repair bill for a full engine rebuild when the belt snaps and the pistons hit the valves...

Even if it's a "non-interference engine" that will not be harmed when the timing belt snaps, you still end up stranded somewhere when the car dies for a day or two, and get stuck with a tow bill.

Not normally, the computer has no sensors watching the oil pressure (it should, but that's a whole 'nother discussion...) - you end up with an oil leak. If it's an internal leak (going back into the crankcase) the only sign would be low oil pressure. That would trip an oil pressure idiot light to flicker or come on fully at idle, and be a very visible pressure drop on an oil pressure gauge.

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There are a few possible causes: - one of the headlights is getting ready to burn out; one of the headlights is the incorrct application; the left side headlight has a poor ground or poor connection, or the left side headlamp has a dirty reflector, bulb, or lens.

The guy who sold you the car is not very sharp. Check to see if both O2 sensors are properly installed and hooked up. Take the car to a place that will lend you an OBD II scan tool, write down the trouble codes, and post here.

Check the brake fluid level. It is probably at the "Min" mark on the brake fluid reservoir. If this is the case, have the brake linings checked for wear because they are probably pretty worn down.

No, the engine stops. The factory recommended timing belt replacement interval is 60,000 miles but you should be able to stretch it (no pun intended) to 90,000 miles without any problems.

No, but the low oil pressure warning light may come on.

Thanks, Ray and Bruce, for answering the poster's questions, as far-ranging as they were.

They reminded me of the old story about the young boy who came into the newsstand at the railroad station and asked in rapid fire manner - "What time does the train arrive? What time does it leave? How deep is the snow outside? How much are the jawbreakers in the jar here?"

The proprietor of the stand took a deep breath and replied " In at eight, out at nine, asshole deep and three for a dime."

Welcome to a.a.t - around here if you ask a complicated question you're liable to get a complicated answer. Cars are complicated things, it goes with the territory.

Much better than a short answer that might not be the real solution because you didn't describe your problem in enough detail or forgot to mention key signs/symptoms...

And nobody wants to turn you in the wrong direction - that's really frustrating, and it can be rather expensive to just "throw new parts" at the problem till it goes away. Sure, you're likely to change the right part eventually, but you can easily waste a few grand on unnecessary parts and labor in the process.

...Burma Shave! ;-P

Hey, it's better than "Go ask your mother..." ;-)

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You're welcome!

It's comforting to know that Bruce's answers were almost identical to mine!