This is driving me nutZ. OP stated in his original post:
"Dear posters:
My mechanic just charged me $1200 for a new Catalytic Converter for my
2001 Toyota Corolla. Did I just got ripped off? If yes what was the fair price to pay?
Thanks!"
Nothing about other services, oil changes etc. I take a person at his word here and elsewhere. If there were other problems then the sky is the limit but none were stated.
Labor rates are typically $65 to $100 per hour - anywhere in US - correct? Dealers being higher and small independents the lower. $78/hr or $86 sounds familiar.
Would generic parts such as this void any T. warranty?
I don't know why people are starting to debate if there are "more jobs", I made it very clear in my OP. Catalytic Coverter, new one, replacement for 2001 Corolla. What more specifics do you want?
I wrecked a '94 BMW with 220,000 miles on it, and it had the factory original CAT. I had an '89 Ford-based motorhome that had the factory CAT. I currently own a '93 Mazda MPV and a '94 BMW, both with about 120,000 miles and the factory original CAT. The only car I own that has had the CAT replaced is my Jeep CJ5, and that CAT met its demise at the hands of a brute with a very large hammer.
I have to wonder why somebody sold you a CAT. What prompted the diagnosis?
I'm sure you'vef heard by now that you can go to AutoZone, and probably others, and they will either let you use the code reader, or they will use it, free. You should never go to the mechanic with a '96 or newer car and not know the codes that the computer is going to spit out. Indeed, unless the car had drivability problems, I'd note the codes and erase them, then note the codes that come up as a repeat, and compare them to the notes taken earlier. then, I pay a visit to the mechanic.
The code that says the CAT isn't working is more often than not caused by the sensor that looks at the CAT, or the wiring that services the sensor.
I didn't mention other services, but in the estimate of flat rate labor times I provided, I did include time to properly diagnose the catalytic converter. Proper diagnosis of the catalytic converter means running an emissions test to see if it is functioning or not.
I assume you're correct, but I suspect that CA and NY metro areas are higher.
Generic parts or modifications will not void the warranty on the entire vehicle, but it will void the warranty on affected parts. For example, if the exhaust manifold and exhaust pipes have to modified to accept the aftermarket converter, the modified parts would not be covered, and if the aftermarket converter disintegrated and ruined the #2 O2 sensor, resonator, or muffler, then they would not be covered. Also, if the car fails an emissions test due to the aftermarket converter, necessary repairs would not be covered.
Also, Toyota's service parts warranty may or may not be longer than the one offered by the aftermarket company.
I think it would have been a lot less expensive if you had told the tech to remove the bulb from the check engine light than allowing him to change the CAT. ;)
converter is under the car for the OP's car. In the
torch should be used to remove the old cat as a last
aftermarket exhaust parts go straight to the torch, cut
and exhaust pipe.
replace the catalytic converter if there are no
to 1.5 FRH. Flat rate means that the consumer pays
catalytic converter is replace the converter. A
time, which is how I came up with my estimate of 1.5
just my guess.
O2 sensors - change the part first to see if it
you're willing to pay for someone to gamble with parts
There are some decent aftermarket converters, but
exhaust system, then take a look at an aftermarket
hose clamp the shop used will not leak CO into the
you would like to protect your $30,000 investment in
I'm usually only use Toyota parts on my Toyota. But my cat-converter was bad (impact related) and OEM was just to much $$$
I forgot the manufactures name (they claim to be OEM and had complete exhaust system specs online) but it was only $140. It was a direct replacement quality part that bolted right up. It was stainless steel and I even used the old gaskets with no leaks.
Oh wile I'm ranting... I just came home with a $22. (1628242010) coolant hose for my Supra. grrrrrrrrrr $22 bucks for a piece of hose about 3/8" 4" long. grrrrrr.
The two hoses for the heater (total rip) were over $70. I passed on those.
I did not actually price them all but to replace all the rubber coolant hoses on my engine is something like $500 for maybe a total of 4'-1 1/2" hose, 4'-3/4" hose, 6'-3/8" hose with a dozen or so bends in it.
grrrrr. grrrrr. grrrrr. ok I almost feel better now. Sorry for the rant....
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