Does this exhaust look like water in the cylinders?

This is a short 5-sec .wmv video at the exhaust pipe. Warm engine at idle, mid-high 80's outside.

I've been losing water and don't see where it's going. Wondering if I've got a head gasket issue. The engine was just rebuilt a couple of years ago, dangit.

Thanks for all input.

Video is 646 kb

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Reply to
Doc
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Thought I'd add it's an 89 Cressida, straight 6.

Reply to
Doc

Oh...no...

Actually, this looks normal. How long had the car been running?

Also, how much coolant are you losing, and are you adding coolant through the bottle? When was the last time you had the cooling system flushed/filled?

Has the HG ever been replaced, how many miles on the car total?

This car has a 7M-GE engine, same as the Supras. These engines are notorious for blowing head gaskets, but that doesn't mean you have to worry a whole lot.

Is there water in the oil, or oil in the water? Water in the oil will look like a milkshake. I liken it to a Zero bar, if you know what that is.

I would have a good look at the cooling system. When was the last time you had the plugs changed? A good tune-up means removing a LOT of the top of the engine, and getting to the head isn't much of a stretch after that. I would try to find a mechanic who is FAMILIAR with this engine have a look, and when you do a tune up have the head bolts torqued to ~70 ft/lbs. Someone who knows this engine will know.

You can also go to

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click on the link to SOGI, signup and then post your question and a link to the video via e-mail to themembers. There are a LOT of knowledgable people there, and although youhave a Cressida, underneath it's pretty much the same as a Supra. Good luck!

Reply to
Vash The Stampede

It had been turned on and off a few times, run a couple miles down the road to the store earlier. Sat for a while, then ran it maybe 15 mins before taking this video.

Both through the bottle and in the radiator, since I've been keeping a close eye on the level lately.

Replaced the radiator & thermostat maybe 3 - 4 months ago, the fan clutch maybe 1 - 2 months ago.

The engine had a total rebuild around 30k miles ago at a machine shop with a good local rep. I pulled the engine and brought it to them, I saw the engine apart on the stand, the head on the bench, he gave me the old pistons/bearings, so there's no question as to whether the work was done.

Saw none of the symptoms you mention, which I looked at when first becoming concerned about the head gasket. The water has to be going

*somewhere*. It seems like every couple of days, the level goes from topped off at the filler neck to having the core tubes explosed. The other thing is the engine has been running a bit rough at start up recently.

I appreciate the tips.

Further developments, the temp guage has been fluctuating up and down. It actually did this a few months ago which is when I replaced the radiator, thermostat and shortly after that the fan clutch when the previous two measures didn't solve what appeared to be an overheat issue.

Things seemed to be doing okay until I noticed it starting to creep up to hot again. I checked the coolant, saw it was low. Filled it, which seemed to solve the problem.

But now it's gotten worse. The last several days it would creep up to hot, and then dive back to normal, all within the space of a cuople of miles after startup. Today I replaced the water temp sensor to see if that was okay, it not only kept doing it, but it got worse. The temp guage finally went all the way to the top, without coming back down, I pulled it over and got it towed in, not knowing if I'm dealing with a genuine overheat issue or something else.

It's losing water and it's overheating despite a new radiator, new thermostat, new fan clutch, full radiator and now a new temp sensor, plus a recent engine rebuild. The water pump seems okay, no wobble in the shaft. I'm stumped, and now feel like I can't drive the car until I get to the heart of the problem.

Reply to
Doc

Personally given the air temperature, I think that it is way to much steam to be condensation if the engine is warmed up as you say. Also is the sound on that clip accurate? it like it's missing a cylinder if it is.

How was the engine rebuilt? was it a full strip down or a fix what's broken job?

As for a reason for the coolant loss. Is there any water in the oil or vice-versa. If the oil and water are not meeting then a coolant loss with that much vapour at the exhaust still could be a head gasket or it could be a cracked head.

But I would cover all of my bases and get the system pressure tested and a UV dye put in it. That way if it's leaking you can see it easier, and that much vapour could be normal for you car.

Reply to
Nick Bourne

Part of the noisiness is a loose exhaust, the aftermarket hangers on the muffler are different than the stock one, and there's some slop that I need to deal with, but yes, there is a definite miss, more apparent at certain times than others. Previously, the engine was running smooth. It's probably overdue for a tune up but again, I'm suspicious of the head gasket. Haven't done a cylinder pressure test yet.

Full strip down. Bored, new pistons, bearings, seals, valve job. He reused the old camshafts. The shop was family-owned, had been in the area for decades and I never heard anything but good feedback about them.

Not that I can tell.

10-4, I appreciate the input.
Reply to
Doc

I didn't watch the video, but here's a question for you - was the head retorqued after the rebuild?

nate

Reply to
Nate Nagel

No.

Reply to
Doc

A modern gasket really shouldn't need retorqueing with a alloy head.

Reply to
Nick Bourne

Also as another thought, I have seen another Toyota that had similar symptoms that cracked the alloy head. If you get the head work done make sure they check it very carefully as the crack I saw went into intake. When you put it back together get a after market metal gasket and a head stud kit (about $200 and $150 respectively) and you should never have any gasket problems after that.

Reply to
Nick Bourne

Yeah, I definitely wouldn't! 30,000 since total rebuild? That's not a lot.

I'm guessing these guys didn't know the engine they were dealing with, and retorqued the head to the factory specified 59 ft/lbs without doing any further checking.

The engine was originally designed with an asbestos HG, and at the last possible second they respec'd the HG and never changed the torque spec. Also, the head 'wobbles' when heated, the front stays cooler than the rear and the uneveness in heating/cooling causes problems. You could try having it retorqued up to 70 ft/lbs or so: this is the easy way out, but it might be beyond that.

Still, after only 30K, you *might* luck out and it will work. I wouldn't drive it much; the next trip would be to someone who *KNOWS* this engine!

Reply to
Hachiroku

If the engine was fully warmed up, with the temperature gauge in the middle, then yes, it looks like steam in the exhaust. Check the motor oil for a milky appearance, check the radiator for signs of oil, check the spark plugs to see if they are unusually clean, check compression for one or more low cylinders. If one or more of those symptoms appear, then there is a good chance that the engine needs work.

Reply to
Ray O

As a follow-up, here's additional video. It shows the exhaust at startup where it's a bit rough, then smoothing out, then some accel and idle in park, also idle in drive, if it yields any additional insights. I've damped the exhaust movement with a wood block to get rid of the noise of the pieces rattling so you hear only the engine/ exhaust sounds. Outside temp high 70's to 80 deg.

About 1min, 2.6 megs.

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Reply to
Doc

I appreciate it. The oil and coolant intermixture doesn't seem to be noticeable but obviously something isn't right. Will check the plugs and compression asap.

Something I don't get though, is why would the guage indicate overheating when all the components that move the coolant appear to be healthy? I.e. pump seems to be okay and the radiator, hoses, thermostat are all fresh. Temp sensor is brand new.

Reply to
Doc

That is stuffed, I would bet my left nut that all of your water loss is going into the cylinder that is misfiring. If your rebuild is still under warranty then take it back and get them to fix it. If not rip the head off and check the gasket and get the head fully checked out, both for flatness and chemically tested for cracks.

And don't start it any more, you may be lucky and not have any bent rods yet.

Reply to
Nick Bourne

hey, don't forget the radiato bypass hose, it's very small, easy to overlook and can leak for months without overt signs. give it a good feeling up.

Reply to
someone

that looks like water smoke!

Reply to
someone

Are you revealing that your engine is overheating? Or was that just a hypothetical question? If the cooling system components are healthy (your may not be) one cause would be pockets of air in the cooling passages of the head. The air could be introduced by a breach from the cylinder to cooling system (blown head gasket or cracked head or block). Do you have white smoke pouring out of the exhaust when you start it up?

-jim

Reply to
jim

There are only 5 reasons why the temperature gauge would indicate overheating.

1) The coolant temperature is too high and the temperature gauge is indicating correctly 2) The temp sender is incorrect or faulty 3) The wiring between the temp sender and gauge has a problem like being grounded 4) There is a problem with the gauge 5) There is air mixed with the coolant.

I forget what kind of car you have, but it probably has a viscous coupling for the cooling fan. When the engine is cold and shut off, the fan should spin freely. When the engine is hot and the engine is shut off, the fan should not spin freely - IOW, it should be connected to the engine so when the engine turns, the fan also turns. If the fan spins freely when it is hot, then the coupling is bad and needs replacement because it is not sucking air through the radiator.

Other things that can cause overheating: The radiator could have a problem like an internal clog or there is debris blocking air flow through the radiator. Bad radiator cap Improper coolant mixture - too much or too little antifreeze can cause overheating. Bad or improperly installed thermostat - if it is not oriented correctly or it shifted before the housing was bolted down Ignition timing is too advanced Head or block problem Blockage in the exhaust Fuel mixture too lean

Reply to
Ray O

NORMAL?!? for an ambient teperature IN THE MID/HIGH 80s????

If it were 60 degrees or lower and the engine just started, I'd agree. But I've NEVER seen a "normal" engine blow vapor like that at 85 degrees ambient, even when just started.

I'd say it looks like that's where the coolant is going, especially if exhaust vapor has a sort of sticky sweet smeel (presuming you're using a glycol antifreeze).

Reply to
Steve

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