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DuraCrap wires?

I did the plugs and wires on the Mazda today. I used NipponDenso plugs, but cheaped out on the wires and went with Duralast (AutoZone).

Starting the car previously has been turning the key and the car jumps to life. After replacing, turning the key resulted in a bit of a hesitation, and a second or two of rough idling. After that it smoothed out and ran well, and started well on subesquent turns of the key.

I'm surprised the car was running at all prior to the change. The manual called for a gap of .030-.033, and the plugs that were in there were over .080!

Reply to
Hachiroku
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If the car is fuel injected, check the coolant temperature sensor. If it is carbureted, check the choke.

Reply to
Ray O

Started it this morning at 16 degrees with a 6 degree Wind Chill. It started and quit, and the second turn of the key it started and ran great.

However, there is a weird noise coming from somewhere around the rear of the engine when it's cold, and it sounds like a bearing on the camshaft is galling... :(

Reply to
Hachirokuハチ

That suggests a cold start enrichment problem. If fuel-injected, check the coolant temp sender and whatever the engine uses for enrichment, either a cold start injector, cold start timer.

Try thinner oil.

Reply to
Ray O

I use 3 1/2 quarts Castrol 10W30, and 1 Qt Marvel Mystery oil...

Reply to
Hachiroku

Up your WHAT, you say??? ;)

Actually, today was the first COLD day we've had. Shoot! LAST Thursday it was 63 degrees!

Reply to
Hachiroku $B%O%A%m%/(B

Try straight 5W-30 and see if the noise goes away.

Reply to
Ray O

I read somewhere that at -20F, with 5W-30 it takes about 30 seconds before the oil reaches the valve train, but with 10W-30 it takes two minutes.n I've heard lifter noise during the first few seconds with

10W-30 even at 40-50F.
Reply to
larry moe 'n curly

Brrrrrr!

It's red flag fire condition weather here.

Reply to
Danny G.

I WISH it were Lifter noise!!! This is more like a screeching!!

Reply to
Hachiroku

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