high idle

Is it possible that a well tuned vehicle idling at 1000 rpm is more fuel efficient than one idling at 800 rpm? Sorry, my intention isn't to rephrase your question but it looks like I have.

Get a can of carburetor or throttle body cleaner and try cleaning the idle air control (IAC) valve. The IAC valve is attached to the throttle body and has a slide that varies the size of an opening that allows air to bypass the closed throttle plate. Carb cleaner is pretty flammable, so keep sources of heat away when using.

They told me they cleaned the throttle body. Is 1000 RPM at idle normal?

1000 RPM when the engine is cold sounds about right but I would imagine that it should be lower after the engine has warmed up. There may be a sticker in the engine compartment that shows correct idle speed.

Cleaning the throttle body does not necessarily include cleaning the IAC valve, and it is possible that gunk that got washed off of the throttle body became lodged in the IAC valve.

There are a few other things that can cause high idle, like the AC compressor circuit, power steering pump circuit, coolant temperature sensors, mis-adjusted throttle cable, sticking cruise control actuator, etc. but I would start with the basics, especially if the other stuff was not disturbed.

== Unless the specification has changed, it used to be 750 rpm +/- 50. Sounds like you need to take it back. Again, unless newer models are different, the idle speed is computer controlled, therefore not adjustable. If they removed the throttle body for cleaning, it is possible the throttle position sensor was adjusted. The TPS has an "IDL" contact and the adjustment procedure calls for measuring in thousandths of an inch with a thickness gauge simultaneously watching for electrical continuity at the appropriate terminals. Sorry, forgotten the proper name, but there is also a throttle position stop, with a vacuum operated plunger that should be adjusted correctly when the throttle body is reinstalled that could affect the idle speed. My understanding is that throttle body cleaning at the dealer can involve removing the throttle body. The Factory Service manual has all the adjustment procedures described in connection with throttle body removal, so it is possible that some of the procedures performed improperly are causing the high idle. If you follow step by step, none are particularly difficult, so one wouldn't expect a problem in this area, but then again the idle speed is electronically controlled, so it shouldn't be changing either.

Most dealer technicians just remove the plastic snorkel from the throttle body and clean the throttle body in place. I have never seen a dealership technician actually remove the throttle body to clean it.

"badgolferman" wrote in news: snipped-for-privacy@news.east.cox.net:

1K RPM at idle when warm is not correct.

High idle is usually an air leak. Check for a vacuum hose left disconnected.

The Check Engine light came on today. I called back and told them how upset I was with this and asked for a loaner car until they fix it. They offered to see me first thing tomorrow and work on it. I don't know what else to do now but I must drive it this evening to work and back. Hopefully the problem won't harm the engine.

A flashing check engine light would probably ruin the engine, but a light that is steady probably will not.

Look at the plate (sticker) on the hood. It should give the idle spec for your engine. I would imagine (from past experience) that the idle should be ~900RPM for a car w/AT&AC.

Tegger wrote in news:Xns98DF8C9EF9E07tegger@

207.14.116.130:

If the transmission is in Drive, that is...

Even my puny 1.6L engine is supposed to idle at just 750 RPM, but it once idled at over 1,000 RPM with the A/C turned on because I had forgotten to reinstall a vacuum hose. And on a newer vehicle with fuel injection, a broken temperature sensor connector made the engine idle fast even after warm up.

I took it back today and they said the seal where the throttle body connects is not seating properly. When the technician put it together it seemed to be okay but after checking engine codes they determined that's where the vacuum leak is coming from. They had to order the part so they gave me a loaner car. It is a 2007 Yaris S and I must say it is rather peppy for a little car. It could probably beat my 1997 Camry 4 to the 1/4 mile.

Be careful, next thing you know there will be a brand new one in your driveway.

They could have missed the wiring hookup at the air snorkel. I don't know if your Sienna has that system but look for the most obvious first. They are easy to miss if the air snorkel is removed and usually you have to unplug that connection. That would probably illuminate the check engine light if they forgot or missed it. Just a thought, good luck.