How to check brakes without getting wheels off?

My Camry started to squeak. The service said the rotor has to be replaced. Which is a $300 deal on top of the $60 for the brake pads. Is it possible for me to check it without getting the wheels off to be sure?

Reply to
Don
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The correct method to check the brakes is to remove the wheels and visually inspect the inner and outer pads for wear and to check the rotor for discoloration, rust, and grooves.

You can kind of get an idea of brake lining wear by looking at the brake fluid reservoir on the brake master cylinder. If the brake fluid level is low, chances are the brake linings are worn. Note that having a high brake fluid level is not an indication that the linings are not worn!

If you have wheels with large openings, you may be able to see the caliper and outer pads but you probably cannot see the inner pads.

Minimum pad thickness is 2 mm. (3/32") If any one pad is thinner, they need replacement.

The squeaking sound you are hearing is probably the pad wear indicator touching the rotor. As the inner pad wears, a piece of metal comes closer and closer to the rotor, until it touches the rotor. The sound will warn you that pads need replacement.

If you are not getting any brake pulsation, you may be able to get away with just replacing the brake pads and/or shoes, if you have drum brakes.

Reply to
Ray O

You might be able to spot obvious flaws either through the wheels or from behind.

Perhaps more to the point - If you are unable or unwilling to remove the wheel, would you know what to look for when inspecting the rotors? If the flaws are not obvious, do you have the tools and knowledge to accurately measure runout and disk thickness?

Reply to
harriswest

~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ Ray, when did Camrys start having audible wear indicators? My '97 warned me to check the brakes only when the pads wore down to nothing and it was metal on metal scraping. Indicators would have been helpful. Thanks !

Reply to
mack

The audible wear indicators are on the inner brake pads, and they have been around for a long time, at least 20 years. It is possible that some aftermarket pads do not have the wear indicators, although most of the aftermarket pads I've seen have them. The quality and compatibility of aftermarket pads are hit or miss. Some are very good, some are poor. Rather than experiment, I just stick to OEM pads for my vehicles.

The wear indicators are only on the inner pads, so if the pad wore unevenly or if the outer pad wore more quickly than the inner pad, the wear indicator wouldn't help. That is the reason why the caliper slides should be properly lubed and the brake visually inspected when the tires are rotated.

Reply to
Ray O

I agree with Ray on this one. While some cars will let you get a visual on the brake pads and rotors without removing the tires, this kind of inspection is only useful if the parts look VERY good. If they look marginal, then the tires must be removed to see if they are indeed marginal or still servicable. I can not address whether or not Toyota's design allows a visual check, but as I said earlier, unless the visual check shows parts that appear as new, the tires have to come off to get definitive information.

Since you have been told that brakes are worn, you should remove the tires if you want to do your own inspection to confirm the diagnosis. You'll need a micrometer or venier calipers to measure the thickness of the rotors. This measurement can be made without removal of any additional parts, and you should rotate the hub/rotor assembly and measure at several places around the rotor. Use the minimum measurement you find, do NOT average the measurements.

On factory rotors, the minimum spec is usually stamped on the rotor. I prefer to say it is always stamped on the rotor -- even for aftermarket parts -- but I'm pretty sure somebody has an example of where the spec is not stamped. Keep in mind, they will not turn the rotors if the result of machining them gives a measurement that is less than the spec, so if you measure and they look like they will pass, but have grooves that should be removed, the measurement that remains after the grooves are removed is what they will go by.

Reply to
Jeff Strickland

~~~~~~~~~~~ Ray, your last paragraph may be the key to the mystery. Or it's possible that the last time I had the brakes renewed, they used non OEM pads. Thanks !

Reply to
mack

You're welcome! Good luck with the brakes!

Reply to
Ray O

I hesitate to ask, since you're asking this question, but if you can spin a wrench, brakes are about the easiest thing in the world to work on, especially on Toyotas.

If you do this, the rotors are about $50 anywhere, the pads are about $20, a 'kit' (shims, anti squeal, springs, etc) is about $15, and a sunny afternoon with a 10, 12 and 14mm wrench. For $135 your fronts are done. And the $50 is for a near OEM quality rotor, not the Chinese stuff. (although I have had success with some of the Chinese rotors...)

If you have a digital camera or cell phone camera, take pictures during disassembly if you have any questions on reassembly.

If the rears are drums, these are more difficult, but if you pay attention, it's almost as easy as the front.

And, once you've done it once, you're an expert on any Toyota or Nissan out there! All bets are off on Hondas, though...I've seen well seasond expert cussing at those!!!

Reply to
Hachiroku

I've cussed at #1 son's Honda brakes! Turns out you have to screw the pistons back into the caliper instead of just pressing them in.

Reply to
Ray O

Actually, that's really not too bad! I had to do the same thing with my 240SX, and I actually liked doing that better (I took a big chisel and turned them back. BTW, that was the first time I did brakes, in '99 or '00!!!)

This is because I don't have a clamp! Finding something to turn it with is easier.

I was referring to the front rotors, that have to be pressed on and off the front bearing. Did your son's model escape this exquisite little inconvenience?!?!

Reply to
Hachiroku

How hard is it to change rotors on a '92 Corolla Wagon?

I just had the pads replaced and they 'resurfaced' the rotors for the second time.

Just wondering if I should do it as PM?

There is no pulsing, so I suspect the answer will be to leave it alone till I change the pads again ....in another 100 thousand miles...LOL

as an aside....I went to my local Toy dealer and was pounced on by two salesmen. I told them I'd be ready to deal in a couple of hundred thousand miles...LOL

Reply to
Scott in Florida

The back of the brake pad was the same thickness as the slots in the piston so I used the old pad to twist it back in.

All I did was replace the pads, scuff the rotor, and lube the slides. Pressing rotors on and off is a pain, like the old 4X4 brakes.

Reply to
Ray O

IIRC, remove the wheel, unbolt the caliper, unbolt the bracket that holds the pads, and the rotor should just pull off.

I would not change the rotor unless you get a pulsation. After 2 resurfacings, I would definitely replace the rotors next time you replace the pads! Brakes are a relatively easy DIY job if you have a small wire brush (the kind for a Dremel Tool works great), a 12 and a 14 mm socket for your ratchet, and some wheel bearing grease or anti-seize. Let me know when you're ready and I'll guide you through the process.

That's because they want your car for their kids!

Reply to
Ray O

Many thanks.

I've done brakes before on Fords and it was not very hard.

I'll ring in a hundred k miles...LOL

LOL.

It ain't for sale...

Reply to
Scott in Florida

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