Jack stands

That's what we have you here for, Ray: to catch our mistakes :-) However, I don't think what I said was a mistake. Placing the jack stands next to the notches (not between the notches since the jack will be occupying that spot) is an easier thing for a novice like myself and others to do than trying to find the center of the rear and front axles buried deep behind the bumpers.

The double notches along the side rails are easily visible and near the car's edge.

Ray, my advice is easier than yours :-P

True, but my advice won't damage the car or scare the daylights out of the P when the jack stands deform the underbody ;-D

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So, it sounds like you're saying floor jacks don't lift straight up but in an arc, and that can bend the notch seam?

Does that mean the flat tire jack in the car's trunk is safe to use since it lifts directly upwards, instead of in an arc? If so, I'll just use the trunk jack for tire rotations since that jack is recommended in the manual for flat tire repairs.

I don't know enough yet about the car's underbody to find the spots you're talking about. Do you think there would be a problem using the trunk jack along with jack stands to do a tire rotation?

Yes, that is what I'm saying.

There is no problem using the scissors jack that came with the car, along with jack stands, to do a tire rotation. Keep in mind that the scissors jack is not as stable as most floor jacks and the jack can tip over, and using the scissors jack is a lot more work and takes double the time than when using a hydraulic floor jack. If you can afford a floor jack and intend to change your own oil and do your own tire rotations, I think the investment will be worthwhile.

By the way, besides lift range, there are other things that you may want to pay attention to when selecting a floor jack. The saddle where the jack contacts the car should be a sturdy cast material instead of stamped and formed, and a saddle that rotates is much more convenient than one that does not rotate. Some jacks have rollers or nothing, while others have casters that make maneuvering under the car easier. Some casters and rollers move more easily than others. A good jack will require fewer pumps of the handle to raise the saddle than a cheap jack. It is hard to release the hydraulic valve on some jacks, making you twist hard on the valve, and then the valve suddenly opens, dropping the car. On cheap jacks, you will have to remove the handle and use the handle to release the valve instead of a separate handle to open the valve or having the release mechanism built into the handle.

Thanks a million for providing us with the excellent advice, Ray. My Camry's notch seams thank you, too :-)

You're welcome!

Just don't cry when the pinch welds are bent over ;-)

Go to your local hobby store and get a white or yellow paint pen, then ask your local mechanic to put the car on a lift and show you the jacking and jack stand points, then mark them with the paint pen. Once you get the hang of what you're looking for, it is usually very obvious where the reinforced parts of the car are.