Just bought an '85 Tercel 2wd wagon for $500

The paints all worn out, but it runs great, showing 232,000 on the odometer.

It was stuck in second gear, costing $1,000 to have repaired, so I went to the wrecking yard and had them put another one in for $440 a few days ago. I just figured out that I'm only getting 2nd and 3rd gears in Drive, though it can be down-shifted to get first. Is this fixable or should I get a replacement transmission.

voice from the past

Reply to
timagine
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I had 2 83 4WD wagons. Watch out on tires. It wears edges badly and you need tires that don't mind that kind of wear. Also there are 6 bolts under the chasis that are supposed to be routinely tightened. Check the owners manual. Be sure to get it done. Also there are 2 cheap stiffener pipes underneat the front chasis that tend to crack exactly where they bolt in and you may not see the crack unless you look carefully. Replace them if needed and you'll have better handling. Can't answer your AT question.

And keep the carburator clean especially in cold weather if you want it to start.

Reply to
Art

Thanks for that.

Do you need a torque wrench for these bolts?

It has two brand new tires in back, and the front ones are ready to replace.

I checked the transmission fluid yesterday, the engine was cold, and those jokers who put in the used transmission at the wrecking yard put so much fluid in there that it was twice as far up the stick as it should be when hot! I used to disconnect the transmission line on my Fairmont from the radiator and put it in a bottle and start the car for a few seconds to remove excess fluid. Can this be done on this car as well?

The Transmission will start in 1st gear when cold, but will not downshif into 1st at a stop when hot. Could this be related to the over-full transmission fluid resevoir? How much would a Toyota specialist likely charge to put the car up on the lift to verify it has the correct transmission in it?

The right front turn signal was broken off, and even when I replaced the bulb the light won't come on. I'm going to take the one on the left side off and borrow the cylindrical mystery from the line that the light cord plugs into and try it on the right side to see if that's what needs replacing.

It rattles the doors when idling because the idle is too low, which means it needs tuning.

It has no cold start setting on the carburetor; it won't set at high RPM when cold (Put the pedal to the floor and lift up, remove foot, start car), so I'm going to at Chemtone gasoline treatment to a tank of gas to get any gum out.

The brake light on the dash will stay on after I have released the parking brake, then I will notice it's off.

The air conditioner slider won't easily go to the cold setting, and I noticed the fuses for the A/C are removed from the fuse box. The connections seem broken to the slider, since it fights being moved. Is it easy to get the A/C up and running again if the pump is good?

Just at the top of my list...

voice from the past

Reply to
timagine

Dude. You check the tranny sauce with the engine running, tranny in neutral, and HOT. You'll get a false reading cold/engine off.

Reply to
Hachiroku

Dood:

Why does the stick have a cold measurement?

voice from the past

Reply to
timagine

For when the tranny's not warmed up. But it _still_ has to be running!

Reply to
Hachiroku

I dunno which bolts you're referring to (a little quotation for context is a *good* thing) but I suspect you mean:

So I would say yes, a torque wrench is advised.

I always use a torque wrench for any "mission sensitive" bolts; by that I mean any bolts that are essential for the safe operation of the vehicle, as opposed to the bolts that hold accesory-type stuff together. So anything in the engine, transmission, chassis, brakes, steering, wheels, etc. gets torqued to the correct spec with a torque wrench. 'Most everything else gets torqued by feel . . . .

-Don (suggesting a torque wrench for these 6)

Reply to
Don Fearn

You do not *need* a torque wrench but it would be better to use one than not use one, especially if you asked the question.

Yes.

Possibly but not likely.

How much would a Toyota

15 to 30 minutes at your local labor rate.

Gasoline treatments will not fix the choke problem. When the engine is cold, try pulling the throttle linkage from under the hood and see if you can figure out how the choke sets. You should see the butterfly valve close.

Check your brake fluid level. If the brake fluid level is low, check your front and rear brake linings for wear.

Check the linkage for the heater control valve on the firewall. You will see the valve in the heater hose. It sounds like the valve or cable may be binding.

Whether it is easy or difficult to get the A/C up and running if the compressor is good depends on the condition of the A/C, your knowledge of how the A/C system works, and access to tools and equipment. You have to check for refrigerant leaks and whether the system is charged or not. If the system has been exposed to the atmosphere for any length of time, you will have to replace the receiver/drier, evacuate the system, and re-charge.

Reply to
Ray O

Thanks very much for the help of your knowledge and experience.

I am filled to the brim with curiosity, and had to find out what answers there could be; I plan to go right out and get a repair manual and follow it respectfully.

This car is so desirable! Everyone who sees it wants it.

Voice from the past

Reply to
timagine

If you are familiar with automotive terms and procedures and can read a wiring diagram, then I recommend the Toyota factory service manual. If you are a novice, then a Chilton manual may be easier to understand.

Reply to
Ray O

Nope. But be sure to check carefully to make sure those stiffeners aren't cracked at the bolt holes. They are worthless if they are cracked.

Reply to
Art

I can't remember if I bought a manual for my '83. If I did, and I can find it, you're welcome to it. Give me until the weekend to look.

Reply to
Hachiroku

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