Need help with 2003 corolla a/c

Early last autumn, my a/c stopped blowing cold air. But sometimes, when I recycle the switch it works normally then returns to blowing warm air again. When I brought it to a dealer, they initally said it was working normally and after I told them the problem, they recommended replacing the compressor and clutch for $1200. My a/c has not worked properly since then even during the unusually warm days last December. I waited after winter and got second opinion from independent mechanic who thoroughly checked the fuses, refrigerant and the electrical connection to the compressor. He said the compressor does not look good but said he?s not 100% sure and recommended getting a dealer to check engine computer.

Today in 82 degrees outside temperature, I decided to turn on the a/c; and after months of not working, it blew cold air for quite some time; then it started blowing warm air. After giving it a rest and recycling the switch, it worked just fine. It?s just a matter of time when it will blow warm air again.

I?m hesistant at this point to replace the compressor because it may not be the real culprit. Are there other things I need to consider as possible culprits?

I would appreciate it if anyone can provide some insights/suggestions.

Many thanks in advance.

mike_a

Reply to
mike_a
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We had a similar problem with our 95 Previa. What the problem turned out to be is that when they refilled our A/C, they used the wrong quantity. There are 2 possible quantities to use. We had the circuit that held 10 ounces more refrigerant. Has anyone checked the level of refrigierant in your system lately? Also the seals? R-134a seems to leak more than R-12.

Also, I don't know yet about R-134a, but if you don't run your AC once in a while with R-12, the seals have a tendancy to dry out and leak. Running the AC (which includes an oil) lubes the seals and keeps them tight. R-134a, like R-12 is a gas at normal room temperature and has a tendency to find any possible leak in the system and escape. I would presume that not running the AC once in a while for R-134a has a similar effect on the seals, i.e. drying out and leaking.

Get someone you trust to check the level in the air conditioner. Older Toyotas used to have a 'sight glass' so the owner could check it himself.

Charles of Schaumburg

Reply to
n5hsr

You may have an undercharged condition. That would explain it blowing cold for a while until it frosts up and stops cooling. Then, when you "give it a rest", the frost melts off and begins returning refrigerant back to the compressor. You of course can not see this while driving but may want to stop and quickly check under hood when you experience this condition. It does not take much "frosting up" to create problems. You may want to have the entire system evacuated, and recharged to the specified weight. I would anticipate that your defrost mode works fine. In defrost, the A/C compressor and system is used to remove moisture (dry out) from the interior of your car. If it does work, the compressor is most likely good. The only other thing I can think of is a duct routing/distribution problem. IMHO. Good Luck!

Reply to
user

There is a technical service bulletin TSB AC002-02 that addresses a condition where the blower volume gradually decreases after about an hour to an hour and a half of driving due to the AC evaporator icing over in high humidity conditions. An in-line thermistor resistor harness is available from your Toyota dealer to correct the condition.

Reply to
Ray O

Thank you both for your suggestions!

Reply to
mike_a

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