Oil Pressure

My oil light goes on intermittently. When I start up, it's okay. After driving around for about 15 minutes, it comes on, sometimes steady, sometimes it flickers on and off. It was on while I was at a stop light, so I turned the engine off and back on, and the light went off. I did the same thing in my driveway when I got home and the same thing happened, it went out when I restarted the engine. I have it idleing in my driveway and the light is staying off.

I thought I had a short in the sender harness because it was rubbing the belt. I moved it out of the way, and still have the probelm. I wiggled the harness and nothing happens with the light.

I just had the oil and filter changed. That didn't help.

I would appreciate any suggestions.

Thanks.

Reply to
jim_nospam_beasley
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I forgot to mention it's a 99 Camry, 6 cylinder, with 225,000 miles.

Reply to
jim_nospam_beasley

There are generally 2 things that make low oil pressure warning lights flicker:

1) Low oil pressure - possible causes of low oil pressure are a blockage (i.e., sludge); bad oil pump; and excessive bearing clearance. Sludge or oil gelling seems to build up if the oil has not been changed for 9,000 or more miles. Check for sludge buildup by removing one of the valve covers. Check oil pressure by removing the oil pressure sender, installing an oil pressure gauge, and measuring oil pressure. 2) Problem with the oil pressure sender and/or sender circuit. If the oil pressure sender is leaking, the low oil pressure light may come on, and a damaged wire could also make the light come on.
Reply to
Ray O

Do you have enough oil? What viscosity? What brand of filter was used?

At 225000 miles, you should be using 10W30 or 10W40

sd

Reply to
Stewart DIBBS

I would like to replace the oil pressure switch, but i'm not sure which one it is. Chilton's manual doesn't show a picture. I think it's right above the timing marks, with only one wire going to it. If that's it, does someone know an easy way to get it out? Chilton overlooks the difficulty of its location.

I just changed the oil. It's 10W30, with a new filter.

Reply to
jim_nospam_beasley

I am not aware of any tricks to remove the oil pressure switch. Just unplug the wire and reach down there with the appropriate tool.

Reply to
Ray O

Where the heck is it on a Supra 7M-GE? I've had the sending unit since April but can't find it on the car!

Reply to
Hachiroku

It'll take two people - one person reaches back behind the gauge cluster and tugs on the oil sender wire, and the other person is under the hood looking for the other end of the wire to move... ;-P

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Thank you! Thank you very much! I'll be here all week...

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Seriously, there aren't too many places they can hide it. It has to be on the side of the block along a main oil gallery. Or on the oil filter adapter, or possibly near where the oil pump is - and the oil pump is usually on the bottom end of the distributor shaft.

It can be hiding underneath the alternator or the PS Pump, with the wire in the same harness till it branches off in a dark spot - so you get a hand inspection mirror with an extension arm and a good flashlight, and check all the nooks and crannies.

If you were a telephone man I'd tell you to pop the cluster and put "flicker tone" trace tone on the sender wire. Then you use an inductive pickup "banana probe" to find the wire heading to the gauge sender - works just like a Geiger counter, the louder it gets the closer you are. Follow the main harness and as the wire branches off you follow it...

You have the new gauge sender, chances are they both look the same.

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Reply to
Bruce L. Bergman

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and I STILL can't find it!

Reply to
Hachiroku

From underneath the car, look up above the oil pan, behind the cooling fan.

Reply to
Ray O

I tried that, but with the car on the ground. I have some 8,000 lb ramps now, and a REAL jack, so I'll have a go when I roll it out of the garage in a few weeks...

Reply to
Hachiroku

At least drive one side of the car up onto a curb to provide a little more clearance underneath!

Reply to
Ray O

That car is LOW!!! It is a real pain to work on, even WITH ramps. Makes it better, though. I had a small problem after we changed the fuel tank last year, and I was able to get the @ss of the car up in the air enough to be able to get up there.

With a 'taller' car like the Mazda, I was able to replace the muffer with little problem, it ot so high in the air!

Now, I need a creeper. What I'd really like is a "rotisserie"! Lock the car in, and turn it one way or another! Would really come in handy for the Hachiroku!

Reply to
Hachiroku

I have 2 creepers, 1 is a Snap-On that was my dad's and is probably around

50 years old. It has wheel hubs that look like they are mangles but allow for movement in any direction while keeping the deck about an inch off the ground. The deck is wood, and I think the head cushion is leather! I wanted to hang it over the fireplace mantle but Mrs. O put the kibosh on it. Maybe if I clean up the wheels, it will make a nice "recliner" for watching TV ;-)

With as many cars as you have, you should invest in a real lift!

Reply to
Ray O

LOL! Believe me, the thought has crossed my mind...on MANY occasions!

Reply to
Hachiroku

I finally figured out what I had to do the get the oil pressure switch out. I can get a deep socket wrench on it after I remove the alternator belt and unplug the switch. The problem I am having now is I can figure out how to disconnect the plug. There is no obvious way, and I am guessing Toyota has some special tool to press all the detents so the plug comes free.

I'm afraid I am going to break the connector trying to get it off. Can someone tell me what the trick is? (I already broke one connector trying to figure it our, and now the detents don't hold it on any longer.)

Reply to
jim_nospam_beasley

If you already have the replacement switch, look at the connector. There should be a tab that is perpendicular to the connector body. On the wire harness side, there is a U-shaped locking connector that fits over the tab on the switch. Use an awl, very small screwdriver, or pick to gently lift the locking connector while pulling the harness off. Do not tug on any of the wires, pull by holding the connector body itself.

Reply to
Ray O

Thanks for your help, Ray. I put a sliver of metal (cut from a razor blade) in where I thought the catch is, but I couldn't get it to work. I may have to turn this over to the dealer repair shop just to get the plug off, and have them do the switch replacement. This switch is just in a place where I can't get to it or see it very well, so, without a proper tool, I think I am going to break the plug. I don't want to end up with a badly seated or loose connector when I'm done.

Reply to
jim_nospam_beasley

Look at another electrical connector under the hood, like for the coolant temperature switch, EGR position sensor, etc. The connectors under the hood all pretty much work the same way.

Reply to
Ray O

Success! I have removed the connector without damage. I fabricated three shims to insert under the detents of the connector and was able to remove it.

Now I see that the oil switch required something other than a hex socket to remove. (The replacement witch that I bought uses a 7/8" deep socket. It looks nearly circular, like another special tool is required to remove it. I'll have to make a trip to the hardware stor to see if there is some tool I can use for this.

I won't be surprised if the OEM switch has a left hand thread!

Reply to
jim_nospam_beasley

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